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hendryjl

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  1. Ok, my OCD is on overdrive trying to pick out these capacitors. I'm in the right ballpark on all of my options, and I'm finding that when I end up between a couple of options, they separate themselves into ones that allow more ripple current versus ones with the lowest impedance/ESR. Which factor is more important, and does that change depending on which capacitor we're talking about (it's position/function in the circuit?)
  2. Here's part 1 of my promise... the details on all my units. I listed this over on the PLM version tracking thread. ISY Unit PLM1 PLM2 PLM3 Sourced Was ALL ON Witnessed v9E 4x:xx:xx 2413S 2.3 4616 Amazon 12/2017 No, only in service for a couple of days so far ??? 2x:xx:xx 2314S V1.B 1317 Not sure No, in 3-4 years of use. ??? 2x:xx:xx 2443 V2.B 1304 Not sure No, in 3-4 years of use. This is a SmartEnit #5010G Rev 1C 1714 I'm going to be repairing the capacitors on the bottom two units once they come in. I am also going to be modifying the cases to add fan based ventilation in the process. I'll send some pics along. -Jim
  3. Any idea what you could safely pull if you tapped the +5V side? I thought about AC fans, but they just don't come small enough, and the unregulated 12V gives me pause... it just seems easier to go 5V. Do you think you could safely pull an added .12A for a 600mW fan off that switching IC?
  4. Those F1 fuse pads look like an easy tap point on the serial board. too bad they don't exist on the EZRF_X10. I will make some measurements on it once I have the repair done to see where I've got something useful, then use some resistors to pull down the 20 (or whatever I end up observing) down to the acceptable range of the fan. I'll go with the list of parts in port 282 unless you (or someone else) have any improvements on it.
  5. Yeah, I'm familiar with this part of things from the reading. That got me thinking... I don't care about aesthetics. both devices are connected in place people won't see them, and one is in a semi-temperature controlled attached garage where it might get a little hotter than ideal. I am fine with some case modification too. I was thinking about mounting a fan like this one (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MF25101V2-1000U-A99/259-1833-ND/7805272) to the outside surface of the case, centered the AC connection, exhausting so that it brings air up and over the caps. intake venting would be provided by drilling some holes along the bottom corner edges of the case nearest the caps between the two boards..I would think that the low 360mw draw shouldn't affect the rest of the circuit. I'll probe around a bit to find a good place to tap in. If you don't see any issues with that plan, I think I'll give it a shot. I know that might be overkill, but I would think it would produce a better result than the option some have suggested of just leaving the front of the case off all together as it would force air around the caps. Also, I'd love to take you up on the offer to ID what you'd consider the "premium option" on the caps. It's ok if there are physical constraints of the case that would be violated. Again, I am fine with a little case modding to accommodate.
  6. So, I can't express how valuable this thread has been. It's given me all I needed to know to repair my 2413S, but also gave me the inclination to pop open my smartenit 5010G that had taken off on me about two months earlier and realize it's got the exact same set of capacitors. I'll be replacing all 5 on each board shortly and will get back with "hopefully" my success story to add to the list. I went ahead and ordered a brand new 2413S to get myself up and running more quickly, and to have a spare. I will also report back when that comes in with what revision I get and what caps are on it. So, I know I'm "saying" i will do all this stuff before it's done, but I'm hopeful I can get some advice on loan until I give my repayment... I have the most recent parts list from the page on post 333 and other places, but here's my question... I know these are "much better" components from a quality perspective, and from a design perspective, but are they "the best" ones. I don't mind to take the time to repair these two boards, primarily because I don't want them ending up in a landfill and being replaced by new ones, but I want to do it once, or at least, as few times as possible If we ignore cost for a second, and consider any of the caps on Digikey or Mouser as an option, are there any better choices that might cost a bit more? I'd rather spend a little more to extend the time until I need to set up my soldering station again. I hope that request if coming across right. I just want to put in the components that will have the longest predicted life, as my time is worth spending a bit more on the right component. If the ones already listed meet that criteria, I'm good with that too. Again, thanks to all the contributors on this long lived and informative thread!!
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