snownh2o2

The only variable I use in this section is a state variable for MAC address status via WiFi to obtain HOME and AWAY status I will do a quick backup and pull the ELSE statements. Thanks, Matt

Would it be best to leave the ELSE line blank or to put a stop command in. I had written it that way in case the program was running the THEN sequence and the house switched back into HOME mode before it finished. Thinking that it would stop the AWAY program from finishing. An example being: the radio was on and I accidently clicked the Away button, setting the radio to turn off in 10 minutes. However since the button press was an accident I would press the button again to go back to Home settings. I was trying to have the radio not shut off in the 10 minutes with an issue as such. Thanks for the help, Matt

Hi guys, and gals, I am beating my head off the wall. I think it is one of those simple mistakes but I cant located it, so may someone can catch it for me. Every morning my ISY is stuck in a loop...I thought I had it fixed but this morning it happened again. Also every morning the following 2 programs are running when the should not be since I am at home and the state variable for home is active (1): As I re-examine the programs, I am thinking that maybe in the A:Audio and A:Lights program folders it is possible that the "And Folder 'H:Home' is False" should be remove for timing issues.....I really don't know though because I don't recall modifying these programs in a while and they used to work just fine. Also is it possible that a Disabled program can be still causing a loop? I wrote some new time of day programs that aren't finished yet, but keep them disabled. They do appear in the isy program summary and I am wondering if they can jam up the isy since the old programs used to run fine. When the looping issue is in effect I can not log into the isy without an unplugging of the isy and then immediately logging in to the console and disabling flagging programs. The loop seen in the event viewer level 3, shows time stamps over and over. Its not the isy going out to check the time server. My file structure is as follows: The programs read as follows starting with the flags that activate them: -------Flag - Away_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V------- If Program 'Wifi Status - AWAY' is True Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Breezeway / BRZ 4KPLDg_Away.Home.Vac' is switched On Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Breezeway / BRZ 4KPLDh_Away.Home.Vac' is switched On Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Family Room / FR 4KPLDg_Away.Home.Vac' is switched On Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Family Room / FR 4KPLDh_Away.Home.Vac' is switched On Then Run Program 'Flag - Home_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') -------Flag - Home_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V------- If Program 'Wifi Status - HOME' is True Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Breezeway / BRZ 4KPLDg_Away.Home.Vac' is switched Off Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Breezeway / BRZ 4KPLDh_Away.Home.Vac' is switched Off Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Family Room / FR 4KPLDg_Away.Home.Vac' is switched Off Or Control 'House / 1st FLR / Family Room / FR 4KPLDh_Away.Home.Vac' is switched Off Then Run Program 'Flag - Away_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') -------Folder Conditions for 'A:Away'------- Add conditions to limit when programs in this folder are allowed to run. If Program 'Flag - Away_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V' is True And Program 'Flag - Home_BRZ^FR:4KPLD:H.A.V' is False Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. -------Folder Conditions for 'A:Audio'------- Add conditions to limit when programs in this folder are allowed to run. If Folder 'A:Away' is True And Folder 'H:Home' is False Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. -------PROGRAM:A:Russound Off------- If Folder 'A:Audio' is True Then Wait 10 minutes Resource 'Russound_RIO_MCA-C5_All_Zones_OFF' Wait 10 seconds Run Program 'A:Russound Off' (Else Path) Else Run Program 'A:Russound Off' (Else Path) -------Folder Conditions for 'A:Lights'------- Add conditions to limit when programs in this folder are allowed to run. If Folder 'A:Away' is True And Folder 'H:Home' is False Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. -------PROGRAM:A:All Lts OFF If Folder 'A:Lights' is True And From Sunrise + 30 minutes and 1 second To Sunset - 30 minutes (same day) Then Wait 10 minutes Set Scene 'Scenes / Scn: multiple Areas / Scn_Away' Off Wait 10 minutes Run Program 'A:All Lts OFF' (Else Path) Else Run Program 'A:All Lts OFF' (Else Path) *******These are the WiFi Programs that help control the Home and Away Flags -------PROGRAM/FLAG:Wifi Status - AWAY------- If $WiFi_MAC_Registration_HTC_Inspire_4G is 0 Then Run Program 'Wifi Status - HOME' (Else Path) Set Scene 'Scenes / Scn:Buttons / Buttons - Away' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') -------PROGRAM/FLAG:Wifi Status - HOME------- If $WiFi_MAC_Registration_HTC_Inspire_4G is 1 Then Run Program 'Wifi Status - AWAY' (Else Path) Set Scene 'Scenes / Scn:Buttons / Buttons - Away' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I already have made some of the parts and have the extruded aluminum for the MendleMax which is a variant of the original RepRap. Resolution is down to 12 microns with 100 micron steps. Without modification it can be feed with most common filaments out there. I have seen mods for multiple filaments heads, though I have no need for that. Printable range is 9"x12"x9" and I have seen mods for bigger tables as would be needed to print frames for larger tablet bezels (ipads) without the need for printing them in separate pieces and welding them together. I recall that since I already have a lot of the structural parts (extruded aluminum, bolts & brackets) lying around my personal shop, and since I can print the rest of the plastics required at the college; the motors, and other specialty parts will run about $400 to complete. Matt PS...I like the concept set forth by reprap. They built the first one to build the next two, which would build the next 4, and so one. Plus its open/free source and commonly chatted about

Alan, I haven't built my printer yet. I go down to the local community and use there printer or else have on of my two buddies print out stuff at work in free time. I really don't have a way of selling or helping you guys out until I build my own printer which isn't likely until the slower winter months. On a good note the 4 button KPLs look a lot better than the 8 and are much easier for unfamiler users to be able to figure out. Thanks for the thank yous everyone, Matt PS...I have a file for 7in tablet wall mount bezels also. The shape hints at the Russound TS2 design and looks professional with some bondo to smooth it out and harden the shell, Then paint to match to your home. The frame fill may take slight modification depending on the exact dimensions your 7in tablet. Mine was a wifi version of the original model. I personally mount mine to the wall by counter boring 4 rare earth magnets into the back of the plastic frame, then I just screen 4 metal screws flush to the wall and it sticks very firmly. Power for charging can be snaked through a small hole behind the tablet or if you want to make it mobile, you can dissect a charger plug and the mount two pogo contacts to the wall.

Wow! Thanks for that in depth reply! It's greatly appreciated. I'm on the road but will play with it when I return. I hadn't considered timers, homever that might be a viable option. I want to make it fairly easy to make the time changes simple through a user interface, so I will work on adding programs that convert clock times to timers. Thanks again for going above and beyond with your response. It's was makes the ISY forum one of the best out there! Matthew

Hello Everyone, I admit that I have spent too much time being creative on this idea, however does anyone know of a quick and easy way to use variables to change times and temperature. For instance, I have multiple programs that determine my thermostat settings. They change 4 times throughout the day. There also adjust (set back) and extra 4degress when my cell phone MAC address is not on the network or the home is in 'AWAY' mode. Because of multiple thermostats and Home, Away, & Vacation states in both Heat and AC setting, if I want to make a change to the timing and/or the temperature I need to change around 30 programs for each mode. I would like to make a variable for different time changes and for the different temperatures. For example: HeatTempMorningHome=70F HeatTempMorningAway=66F TimeMorningBegin=04:30:01AM TimeMorningEnd=07:30:00AM Here is an example of a single Home Heating set of programs: If On Sat, Fri From 4:00:01PM To 8:00:00PM (same day) And Folder 'HT:Heat' is True Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. ----- If Folder 'HTH:Evening Fr-Sa' is True Then Set 'IN / House / 1st FLR / Fam Rm / FR TStat_Main' 68° (Heat Setpoint) Set 'IN / House / 2nd FLR / Mstr Bed / MB TStat_Main' 68° (Heat Setpoint) Wait 15 seconds Run Program 'HTHE:1600-2000' (Else Path) Else Stop program 'HTHE:1600-2000' Thanks for any insights that you can contribute, Matt

Below is a Dropbox link to the frame files that were used to make the 4 button KeypadLinc frame in the photos above. They are Rev#0. After a few days it seems to be working fine. Also available are files for Rev#1. I have not yet printed this version. The differences are minimal. Some areas extra material was added for strength, however if you are using clear or colored lenses behind your buttons they will not work on Rev#1 without definite modification. Rev#0 may also have the same issue. I forget if I mentioned this before, but even when using the new 4 button KPL frame there is a lighting issue on the center two buttons. The center 4 LEDs on the KPL have plastic surrounds that the out 4 LEDs do not have. These surrounds must be shaved off with a razor blade for the button to be fully and uniformly lit. Please do any modification at your own risk, knowing what the consequences may or may not be; i.e. warranty https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2282yhg34338xh9/Fyf8nWnWTn Enjoy, Matt

I have had the first prototype printed and installed today. Looks good so far. Used the same dimensioning as the ones that arrived on the KPLs however we may beef it up since the 3D Plastic is not as rigid as the molded was. Truthfully I think longevity will be a non issue, but it's also not hard to beef it up. As of now two modifications need to be made. On the KPL the center 4 LEDs have a surround on them the need to be removed with a razor blade. The surround focused the light source which is unwated in the 4 large button configuration. The second modification for my file would be tolerancing to allow for clear kits and colored backlights. This is a change that in am not sure that I will be making to the printed file as it can more easily be done to the small plastic lenses that are used. Following are some pictures taken tonight. Picture quality isn't that good but they do look very good in person. I will post files CAD files sometime next week when the file has be updated for the ultimate strength. Again remember that the KPL itself needs a small DIY modification for nice even light on each botton. Enjoy, Matt

I am running Win7 64bit Home Premium SP1. Java is Version 7 update 9 (build 1.7.0_09-b05). I use IE 9 update 9. If you take a look at the image below, you can see that all of the run times and finish times are exactly the same. I cleared the Jave cache a time or two today and the last ISY99i IR update was when v3.3.5 was released. Note: This screenshot is not representative of what I was talking about in question 2. Any ideas? Thanks, Matt

Two quick questions: 1) Why in the programs summary do I have two columns labeled 'Last Run Time' and 'Last Finish Time' and they always seem to show the same exact times. I've found this odd for awhile, but never figured out whats going on. I assume that 'Last Run Time' stands for 'Last Start Time' however given the results, I feel that I am incorrect. Can someone explain this. 2) Also in the programs summary, what does the 'Status' column stand for. I always assumed it was the status of whether or not the program was allowed to run, but the following program is showing differently ************ If Status 'Inside / House / 2nd Floor / Master Bedroom / MB LMPL_Lmps' <= 40% And Control 'Inside / House / 2nd Floor / Master Bedroom / MB MS_Snsr' is switched On Then Set Scene 'Inside / House / 2nd Floor / Master Bedroom / MB Scn_ Lmps:Motn:Night:UP' On Wait 9 minutess Set Scene 'Inside / House / 2nd Floor / Master Bedroom / MB Scn_Lmps:Motn:Night:DWN' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ************* This program is located in my Motion Folder which has no conditions, the Motion Folder is located my Home folder with no conditions, and the Home folder is located in my Programs which also has not conditions. Scenes: MB Scn_ Lmps:Motn:Night:UP' On -- Light ON levels of 40% and 75%; Ramp rates both at 2 minutes; Devices are both LampLincs MB Scn_ Lmps:Motn:Night:DWN' On -- Light ON levels both 0%; Ramp rates both at 9 minutes; Devices are both LampLincs The programs is to turn ON the lights when motion is sensed in the bedroom. If motion is sensed again within 5 minutes the lights continue to stay on at 40%. If not they they go to zero at a much slower rate. The issue is, if the program is in the 'Wait' phase and motion is again sensed, of the program remains true, and continues as planned. However if the program has gotten to the point that it ran the DWN scene and the lights are slowly dimming, the program status in no longer True, and it trues the lights back up to 40% and 75% but does not dim them. Now that I type everything above, I am thinking that the DWN scene should have the same ON levels as the UP scene and I should turn the scene OFF rather than ON. I figure I will post this anyway to get my first question answered. Thanks, Matt PS...Suggestions for a better way to program and/or take out some if the motion sensor lag, is welcome and appreciated. Will motion sensors hardwired to the Elk help out in terms of reducing lag?

Thats of great help, being that I foresee using it for shade control. At 3-4 windows per room, and 2 relays per window, the newer, bigger boards will be well appreciated. Matt

Thanks for the reply. Tonight I am going to order a CAI and some relays and see what I can play around with in the future. Maybe I will take my motorized shade prototye to the next level. I want to use cellular shades in the next version but still haven't found a motor/sensor solution that remains cheap yet fully/approperiately functional for my needs. I concure ATXs fit the bill with free ones everywhere and the clean power. Just not as pretty Soldering is fun for me. Similar to welding out in the shop, but I can do it in the house without getting yelled at! Thanks again, Matt

Please believe me when I say I am not laughing at anyone specifially, but I am laughing. I didn't mean to start such a controversy. Just letting everyone know that your ISY can, rather simplistically, start you car if you so desire. There's probally a hundred different ways to do it, varying in simplicity, cost, effort, and reliability. Truthfully, I just grabbed a few I/O links off of my HA shelves in the basement. It turns out in got a 4 pack for Christmas or my birthday or something....so I just grabbed them. I guess I could've used my ELK or GCs or some Ez's or .... I have been meaning to try CAI, however in this case I didn't really think, just grabbed. apostolakisl: Are these the TTL relays you are using? http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Channels-12V- ... 43ad7aa21c Or are there others (better quality) that you recommend for the CAI. There are also 16 channel versions similar in price. Secondly has anyone seen a good but cheap multiple output 12VDC power source anywhere? 10 or 20+ channels would be ideal. I am sick of wall warts and computer power supplies littering up my board, however every CCTV sources cost a fortune simply because the are often consider industrial. I do have 2 old CCTV 16 channel supply sitting on my shelf but they are 24VAC so not really applicable for most situations. My camera system has 16 12VDC cameras, I have tons of 12VDC PWM LED dimmers, and relays galore. I'd like get it tidied all up without breaking the bank. Actually now that I think about it, even though I have powerline, security wiring, ethernet, and wifi in the garage, I think that I did specifically grab the I/Os for the portability factor. I had also wanted to used the status wires to connect/test a HomeLink reciever which would allow the use of a vehicles factory HomeLink garage door buttons to communicate with the ISY. I recall thinking that with the IOs I would be able to quickly move them around to locate the best combination of the key fob reliability to the truck, and also the best range from the vehicle HomeLink buttons to the HomeLinc Reciever when driving down my driveway. (HomeLink however may soon be obsolete for me as I am excited that MstrDs wifi logging script in DDwrt shows great potentional for quick WiFi logging ellieviating the needing to press the Homelink buttons; I will be trying it out hopefully this weekend; For the ambicious, see his post: HowTo: Proximity Notification Wifi (phone, ipad, laptop)) Soldering litterly took about 5 minutes including the 3 minutes to warm up the iron. Remembering back a few years (& 10,000 LEDs ago) it may take a bit longer for those who do soldier too often. The use of some glue/epoxy is also possibly ok for this type of project. All in all it was about an hour of messing around aside from ordering the remotes. The IOs were a bit finicky. Stacking them is not recommended by SH, so you probably should not do so. They claim heat issues. Its always worked in the past but this time it gave me some communication issues. I mounted 4 single gang boxes with some outlets and the problem was solved, though I truely think one of the IOs is actually just a bit tempermental. I don't know the reliability of CAI but I have heard that it is really good. Frankly as far as permenant solutions go, I am a fan of home running seperate wires for all sensors, communication devices, relays, etc... for reliability. Wireless and Powerline module type products I reserve normally just for Internet browsing, temporary use (holiday lights) and test setups. I try to stay away from wireless due to the hassle of restoring them, considering the example that the SH Skylink motion sensors involve removing a screw not to mention that they eat batteries. So they are either a lot of maintence or a power adapter is needed. For a clean install a power wire needs to be run and once runnings wires, why not just hard wire the actual sensor especially since SH charges $35 vs as low as $2 on ebay for a generic. Living in a 120 year old home with 1.5ft thick wall full of wood, plaster, rocks, bricks,... I sometimes argue both sides this point within myself. On a tangent, I personally run my the signal (line) wires on some of my SLs to the actual outlet where I plug in my lamps rather than using an OutletLinc, LampLinc, or APLs. Communication issues are minimized, control is still maintained in an even if the system would crash, and programming/scene setup is often simplified in the ISY. Just my opinion on minimizing errors and hassles. Have fun, Matt PS...It is fairly obvious when you think about it, but I could see how someone could over look this point initially, THIS SETUP ONLY FUNCTIONS when the vehicle is within range of the hacked key fob! No need to worry about accidently starting when your vehicle is in the shop or out of range. PLEASE note that unless you add the approperiate sensors, this setup will control the truck without reguard to whether or not the truck is in the garage, in the driveway, or a parked nearby on the street. For this reason please take all precausions to prevent the vehicle from starting in a closed garage. This is a very serious issue and has the potential to harm or kill someone. Be extra careful if your garage is connected to the house, and extremely careful if there is a bedroom next to or above the garage.

Xathros, thanks for the great idea. I finished this project last week. I had some I/OLincs laying around, bought a pair of extra key fobs of ebay for around $15 and took out the soldering tools. (Truthfully I never actually put them away because I use them daily.) To save money, anything with relays that your ISY contols should work including Global Cache and ELK. Each button pressing function requires a seperate relay. I needed one for lock, one for unlock, and a final one for remote start which requires a pressing/timing sequence of the lock button and the start button. I opened up the key fob and found the coresponding buttons. I soldering on a pair of wires to each button, and connected them to the seperate relays. The battery was glued in place since the cover no longer snaps on. Finally I setup the OPTIONS for the IOLinc relay. I used momentary setting with the lock and unlock buttions having a .2 second hold and the start button have a 4 second hold (required by my make and model vehicle.) For some reason the IO Lincs were a bit of a pain to get to hold the correct settings so it took a few tries. Be sure to test while being near the vehicle because intially my truck kept locking over and over again. In time it would have killed both the battery in the truck and the remote. A simple ISY program sets the trigger (control) to be a button that I press before entering the shower each weekday morning. DIY this at your own risk. I do not have neighbors, wandering pets, nor childern. Plus my garage is not attached to the house and has plenty of garage door status sensors for safety. Anyway, after the control button is pressed (I chose fast-ON), if all sensors are valid, the garage door begins to open, waiting for 13 seconds to fully open, the system again does a sensor status check, if okay the trucks door lock button is pressed (.1 second) immediately followed be the start button (3 seconds). Now since my truck has a 10 minute max run time with the capablility of a single 10 minute maximum restart/extension, the ISY wait 9 minutes and 30 second and the sends the 10 minute extension command sequence of buttons presses. When a motion sensor signifies that I am showered, dressed, and walking out to the truck, the ISY unlocks the all of the doors with a double unlock and I do not have to put my stuff down to search for the key in my pocket. For some reason my hand are alway full on my way out the door. Now, one cool (or warm) fact about the newer GM vehicles, mine being a 2008. Many come with remote start built in and have a heat seat option also. Mine had the starter, but not the seats. I opted to DIY the OEM heated seats, which took some time, but really weren't too bad for my specific truck. Though it was much more expensive (ebay $300 including a trim panels, factory harnesses, heaters, and modules) and more intensive wiring (though totally plug and play). I went this route for one big reason. I did not know how too have the ISY get the interior the a comfortable temp, cool in the summer and warm when its freezing out. With the GM factory heated seat kit, the truck automatically senses the temperate both inside and out when remote started. Using the auto climate control set to 71 degrees, the truck automatically gets the air temp correct. (AC occurs rather quickly, however the heat takes most of the 20 minutes on a cold day because it needs the engine heat to warm the interior.) The bonus that the OEM factory system gives is that when it is cold out, it automatically pre-warms the seats in remote start mode. And pre-warmed seats make you feel like a KING! Hope this help, however for safety do at you own risk, Matt PS... Search for my other post on using the I/O Lincs unused status sensor terminals to link the HomeLinc buttons in your vehicle to you ISY. I turn on my entrance lights with one of my extra buttons and arm/disarm the homes alarm and set Home/Away lighting/temp using the other. Flashing the garage light shows a confirmation of the status.

Ok, so heres the update. The HomeLinc buttons in your vehicle WILL work to control you ISY. Here are the parts that I used: I/O Linc (sensor terminals only) Liftmaster 635LM-01 (revciever) Chamberlain 953EV (handheld remote control - only needed for initial setup) Homelink Remote (normally an in-vehicle (sunvisor) button) Please know that this is exactly what I used, however I think there are many different combinations availible that will work. This combo uses rolling codes (known as Security+) on or around the 390Mhz bands. It is important that the frequency matches between the reciever (Liftmaster) and the remote (Chamberlain.) Not ALL universal remotes cover all bands. Now that my install is finished, I am glad I have the more secure rolling codes, however the initial setup was much harder to figure out. The most important thing to know is: The Chamberlain recievers DO NOT have ANY preset codes initially set in them from the factory. Furthermore, Homelink buttons must copy a pre-setup code from a remote (rolling) or have a fixed code entered manually (dip switches.) Fixed codes are easy. Find someone with a garage door opener with dip switches. Have them write down their code. Then set the dip switches to a new code. Link this new code to your vehicles HomeLink button. Repeat for more buttons. Reset the dipswitches back to the original settings. Done! You have your codes to enter in a reciever that uses fixed codes (NOT the Liftmaster 635LM) and the garage door still works with all of its originally setup remotes and its operation will not be affected by the operation of your new homelink buttons. Rolling codes are a whole different animal. In this type of setup, each Homelink button clones itself to a controller rather than a reciever. Hence you must have a seperate controller or availible remote controll button (Chamberlain) for each reciever (Liftmaster) and cannot simple copy your garage door code. Setup starts by putting the remote control in pairing mode. Then it is paired to the reciever by pushing in the smart pairing button on the Liftmaster. If the pairing is sucessful, pressing the remote should activate the reciever. Next set is to 'clone' the Chamberlain remote to your Homelink button. This isn't too difficult but you will need to look in your vehicles owners manual for the exact process. Finally attach a pair for wires from the Liftmaster reciever to any Insteon status sensor. I used some open IOLinc status termainals in which I had previously only been using the relay portion of the IO. [search the forum and you will see a post on using an IO Linc to lock, unlock, and remote start your vehicle. I will be updating it tonight if time allow to show how the project ended.] Finally adjust your sensor settings with the ISY and try out some new programs. Turn on the entrance lights, or even arm/disarm the security system adding a confirmation with a flash of your garage lights. Also for some ballpark pricing, the Chamberlain remote control with three buttons (will program up to 3 recievers) was $18 new on ebay. One is neede for every 3 recievers used. The rolling code reciever were $18.50 each on Amazon. One is needed for each Homelink button. Finally the I/OLincs are $30 at Smarthome if you wait until a 20% off sale and buy 4 at a time. To save some money, I think you can purchase a kit with both a reciever and a remote control. Also if the rolling code feature is not important, I think those components are a few dollars cheaper. Finally, an entire IOLinc is not really needed for this project. All you need to do is sense the status of the HomeLink button press. Any Insteon product that will sense status is fine. Also if you have Global Cache or Elk products in you system you can probably sence contact closure from the reciever without an extra Insteon module. Hope this helps, Matt

Just an update. I have taken my second Solidworks class, so we are getting closer to a KeypadLinc FOUR button frame. I am doing it for my class project. I will also be doing a wall mount that makes and and ipad look like the Russound TS3. It will not be easily removable which is the point! If I design the model as the instructor expects me to, it should be easily adaptable for other tablets with only a few dimesion changes. I am building it for the gen1 ipad and maybe an old Galaxy Tab. The TS3 is $600-800 and has a limited single function. An ipad gen1 or older tablet is under $200 and does almost anything. Irule, Mobilinc, Weather, IPcam View, Traffic, News, and for $10 the Russound App is 300x better than their TS3! Remind me if you don't see the file in the next month or so. Matt

I got my transceivers. Hooked one up to the IOLinc and manually it works fine. I have yet to get it to read the codes from my extra vehicle buttons. Liftmastsmsetup failed. It is possible that there are nomcodes currentlymsemandmtherefore nonemtombe learned. I am guessing that I will need to first change my garage door code, learn that different code to my truck, then try the Liftmaster programming again. Finally I will the set the garage code back to its original code so it works again with the correct button. I will keep you guys updated when I get a chance. Anyone else had any luck yet? Matt

I just ordered my two....who's I had more homelink buttons in the truck....already thinking about having the superman theme play every time I exit the truck

Ok, think the the liftmaster is the right choice for me. I recall seeing the x10 way awhile back and actually have the parts to do it, however my x10 luck has never been too good. I found it for $13.42 + 4.99 shipping on Amazon. It is the 315mhz version which appears to be within the Homelink range. http://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Plug-I ... r+reciever I will need to order two, one for entry lighting , and one for the steroeo system. I often find myself listening to a talk show and find myself sitting in the truck in the driveway until it takes a commercial break. Now I will be able to hear it outside and then continue with it when I enter the house. I was unable to locate a unit the had more than one output, but these seem cheap enough and it will still have the other half of the IOLinc to use for something else. I will order then tomorrow unless I hear a reason why not to overnight. I still haven't figured out if it is safe enough for the alarm. Modes it use rolling codes or is it just the single 315mhz pulse? Let me know if anyone has some insight. Thanks, Matt

Thanks guys. I finally just got some time to sit down. Gonna start reading about it now. Matt

I am wondering if anyone has a good/easy way to use the extra garage door opener buttons in my truck to control scenes. I already have an IOLinc attached to the garage door, however I do not always park inside and I would like to use my spare buttons to turn or the spot lights and arm/disarm an alarm without opening the garage door. I already considered purchasing an old broken door opener coupled to another IOLinc, but I am thinking that there has got to be a better way. All suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Matt

Got it. Thanks guys. I have a much better understanding now and will keep it in mind for the future. Matt

Thanks guys. thanks what I was looking for. LeeG, can you elaborate a bit on how the dimmer can be ruined. I think that I understand ruining a bulb/ballast due to the the chopped wave. I am Wondering what actually can happen to the dimmer. Thanks, Matt

Hi Everyone, I was wondering if someone would mind taking the time to explain both the technical and practical issues of using a Swlitchlinc dimmer (SLD) as a Switchlinc relay (SWR). I am not a fan of florescent lighting, however CFLs are now everywhere. Is there an problems is CFLs are on a SLD the has a ramp rate of .1 second? Or FastOn command. Without even knowing it I find them secretly installed in my house. I know CFLs are not good for Insteon communication reasons, however I am talking about the effect on the actual SLD and the bulb. An example of what I am looking for is: 'Using CFLs on a SLD may wear out the SLD in a year. Or, using a SLD will start a fire 1 in every 100 applications. Or, it is not recommended to use a SLD with a CFL, however most people do without any noticeable problems. Or finally, 'Using a CFL will use 25% more energy if used with a SLD. Again, those were just examples and not actuality. Finally if CFLs are okay with SLDs, is there any issues with CFLs and regular florescent lighting such as the 4ft lights in a garage or a basement. I am guessing that ballast type and Watts drawn are they biggest issue in this case. If so, what ballasts are okay with a SLD set for .1 second? And what types are okay with a SLR? Thanks, Matt