randysachs

Alrighty then. Got the parts today and the PLM is up and running nicely. I did the V1.B for starters, but assume the V1.6 should go as well. I tested it with Linknet 2020, resetting it to default then adding one Lamplinc 2457D2 as a test unit. I had no problem controlling it from across the house so it's a win. I've attached the parts list from Mouser. The only thing that was at all dicey were the two 10uF / 50V ones, they were a bit physically wider than the original 35V ones and one was a tight fit next to another cap on the board. The 400 volt one is much taller than stock but fit fine Other than that it was smooth sailing though at the advanced age of 64 the old eyes just ain't what they used to be for doing PCB work. ? Here's the original list I was working from: Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with EKY-500ETD100ME11D 10uF 50 Volt (2 of these) Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt Now I'm debating if I should sell the repaired one on eBay since I'll still have two backups. After seeing a V1.B go for 300 bucks last week it's very tempting...

I'll be happy to once I get the parts and make sure they'll all fit. I had to do some substitutions due to the supply chain issues and it's a bit of a crap shoot at this point. There's a guy selling a ready made package on ebay. It's a little more expensive than getting them from Mouser but still less than 20 bucks. If you want to get it done quickly you might want to take that route. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174552309995?hash=item28a420e0eb:g:CLYAAOSwE2FhRlrh

I ordered a bunch of caps from Mouser and I'll try the repair on my dead ones next week. I'm also thinking I'll punch some ventilation holes in the case to let them breathe a little if they come back to life. Can't hurt. I just saw a used 2413S V1.B sell on eBay for $305 with over 30 bids. Folks are getting desperate out there.

I have a few older 2443's laying around so just took a look inside. I suspected they would be quite different just because they weigh a lot more than any other Insteon device I've see. Those are quite different inside with a fairly large 12V AC transformer inside instead of a switching power supply. Both the Rev 1 & 2 have the same main board with very different RF boards in them. They do have the same header setup in them as the 2413, it might be interesting to try a swap but first I'd have to at least check all the pin voltages to make sure they wouldn't kill the comm board.

This might have been covered before but I didn't see anything with a quick search. Has anyone tried, or is it even possible, to take a 2413U and swap out its communication board from one in a 2413S and use it as a serial modem? I'm just curious since the 2413S is always unavailable but it seems like the 2413U is still around. From what I've seen on the net the only real difference seems to be the comm board, and the S failures mostly seem to be in the main board's power supply caps failing. I'm not that desperate yet, I still have a spare S and a couple of dead 2413S units I'll probably recap to see if they come back to life. But if a swap was a viable solution it might help some folks who have dead 2413S's since anyone could do a board swap in a matter of minutes.

I'm sure it's the traffic, but it's odd that it only started doing it after a long period of time and kept doing it even after everything was replaced. It might have started after I added some motion sensors and upgraded the ISY to 5.0.16C but I'm not sure about the actual timing on that.

I've been doing a little experimenting and am still confused. I have had exactly the same one piece can replacement downlights in my family room as I had in the kitchen, older generation Commercial Electrics from HD. The family has a 2334-222 KP, the kitchen a 2486. Neither one had any flicker for about 3 years, but the kitchen started to flicker about 6 months ago. So I swapped out the kitchen KP to a 2334-222, and they still flickered. I tried some Feit's from Costco, and they were worse, it was the first time the wife ever noticed it. Sort of cracked me up, she kept looking out the window for the flashing light until I 'splained it.? So from what I've read here I ordered some Philips ones from Amazon that said they were flicker free. And they are, thank goodness. Dim nicely too. The model is Philips LED 802660. URL is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08667H59V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But what I don't get is why the kitchen started acting up after all that time, while the family room has nary a problem. ?

FWIW I haven't noticed a difference between switch types, but it seems like the more you dim the light the more noticeable the flicker. But maybe I'm imagining it..