PinchRoller

The battery pack is a custom-made unit with internal protection using a commonly-made Seiko chip. This is pretty common for Li-Po flat-pack batteries. Here are the specs: Battery, Lithium, 46.5 x 25.5 x 3.2mm, 3.7V, 300mAh Most units made in the last five years the milliAmp capacity was bumped up to 320mAh. The battery charge rate is set by an IC on the Mini Remote PCB. I expect that if you can find something that fits, even if it is smaller, go for it. Also, Mini Remotes that are revision 1.8 or later have many other improvements to decrease the standby current and increase the battery life between recharges. -Pinch

Agree that the relay contacts seem welded resulting as the load is remaining on all the time. The relay component for the 2477S is Song Chuan 507HN-1AH-F-C 24V, which is pretty highly-rated at 277VAC, 17A and a TV8 rating. This is the link to the part at Mouser. The issue with LED loads is that they can draw 100 to 1,000X the regular current in the first few micro-seconds. Whereas incandescent bulbs typically draw 10X the current over the first few milli-seconds. The "TV" rating was created to account for incandescent bulbs. For the Insteon relay or On/Off products, the load current no longer goes through the air gap switch. The first few original SwitchLinc Relay products (2476S) had the load current going through the air gap switch and it was later designed to bypass that switch. All with the approval of Intertek as current through the air gap was not required to cut power to the load. The relay is supposed to do that....."supposed to". -Pinch

These are the specs for the triac in the current version of the 2477D Insteon wall Switch. It can be purchased here at DigiKey BTA16-600CRG - Pinch VALUE Rating (Volts, Watts, or Amps) Tolerance Mfg Manufacturer Part # 16 Amp 600V Igt=25mA STMicro BTA16-600C Standard

Paul's X10 xpf filter is a solid choice. Here is a smaller one at Mouser that should be fine: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qualtek/851-05-006?qs=258DH3jk4VfO5HUmapCcvQ%3D%3D&mgh=1&utm_id=17222215321&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aMRi42v0n0pJAH0YhzNfTO5VCuYk5RSiNsiC8KYkMLC97IvEsaQxMxoCyfwQAvD_BwE Pinch

Yes, there are differences between the regular Insteon PLM 2413x module and the one's used for the Smartenit products. The EEPROM memory chip and two supporting resistor that holds the Insteon links database are: - located on the serial and USB daughtercard for the all the Insteon 2413/2412/2414 models - located on the main PCB for the 2413-like models used on the Smartinit products. If one looks at the main board of a 2413x PLM, there are some unpopulated components at U9 (24FC64) and R34/ R35 (4.7K resistors). Those same parts are placed on the interface daughter cards for the 2413x models. For the Smartenit versions, those EEPROM and pull-up resistors were populated on the mainboard with parts so the Smartenet daughtercard did not have to worry about that detail. I expect that if those parts (EEPROM and resistors) were placed on the mainboard, the transplant of a Smartenit daughtercard would operate in a donor PLM interface. -Pinch

Great conversation and thinking about other plug-in devices! Sight correction and possibly irrelevant update to Kevin's spec. For the powerline, the carrier current is operating at 131.5kHz. The RF frequency for the US and Canada is just like Kevin mentioned; 915MHz.

Both PLM models have begun shipping today, Friday April 7, 2023. Pre-orders are being shipped first and new regular orders will be later in the day or on Monday, April 10th -Pinch

CJ, do you need dimming? You mentioned that there is no LED flicker in your small flat LED down lights (I am not sure what that is) when you use an Insteon ON/OFF switch (no dimming). There are devices sold to reduce LED flickering that are installed in parallel with the LED loads like the FIBARO Bypass 2 (FGB-002).

I expect that that the presence of a 30V rail indicates the a single-band LampLinc 2456D-series. The other information " my LampLinc's they remain dead or only marginally communicate" are insufficient to offer any recommendations. -Pinch

I have attached the spec sheet for factory-installed Fujicon TY Series caps discussed in this post. The 100uF/50V is used at C7 and C11 since 2016. When Hubs and PLM are repaired by Insteon C7, C13, C11 use Rubycon 50YXJ100MT78X11.5 100uF/50V, 7,000Hrs @ 105°C Capacitor - Electrolytic Fujicon TY Series High Ripple Current, High Reliability (6.3-50VDC) Specs for [100uF-50v, TY1H101M-RBF11WP00]; 560mA Ripple at 100kHz, 6K Hour life at D8.5 x 11.pdf

Do the other basic functions work like: Pressing the set button to toggle the load on and off? Does the LED indicator operate? Can you poll the device from your system to determine the status.? Can you hear an audible relay click when operating the set button? Does the load come on.? Most of these suggestions are apart from signaling and electronic (capacitor) issues. -Pinch

I am late to the discussion and, despite larryllix negative attitude towards…well, the whole world; there is a super capacitor on the wired-in thermostats that keep the MCU running (like the clock and status) when power is lost. C21 shown in the image is a .22uF/3.3V super capacitor that can be replaced to maintain settings during a power outage. Perhaps there is a Li-Po battery that can be used in place of the S-cap. I expect that one can remove the thermostat and place a voltmeter across the cap and observe the discharge. The circuit shows signs that when the power is lost, the MCU switches to the super capacitor circuit to maintain status and probably goes to deep-sleep mode.

I agree with Brian that Panasonic capacitors are good replacements. I did see that the model Brian used is out of stock at DigiKey. I did do a search at DigiKey and they had six ones that had outstanding specs: One of those parts, Cornell Dubilier / Illinois Capacitor #477KXM035M had a great lifetime rating and a high tolerance to ripple current at 120Hz. it only cost ~ a buck. -Pinch

On this version, there is an opto-coupler that effectively controls the coil using the 120V line. Here is the schematic of that circuit: Keep in mind that this product uses an inverted power supply, so one might be alarmed at the switching of the neutral line. I do recommend checking the two capacitors around the relay for possible shorting, which would keep the load on up to a certain current. -Pinch

I agree with stillwater, the issue may be a broken relay. That ApplianceLinc and many Insteon relay products used model #TRV-24VDC-SC-AL from a company called Tai-Shing Electronics or TTI. That part has been replaced with TRVF-24VDC-SD-AL. The spec are 22.3 x 16.3 x 11mm, 24VDC @8.3mA coil and contacts rated for 250VAC, 16A, TV-5. A drop in replacement is Massuse ME-23-24P. There are many relays that match those specifications on DigiKey, Mouser, and others. Another possibility is the capacitors across the high-voltage switched contacts have shorted. Caps sometimes break down when attached to some loads, which produce a high voltage reverse EMF upon relay opening. This can be tested with an ohm meter or continuity tester placed across those capacitors near the relay. Good luck, -Pinch