Teken

Take a deep breath you got the first part taken care of which is getting the I/O Linc to enroll into the network. Your next step is to confirm that the door sensor no longer opens the GDO. The rest is secondary at this point . . .

I know you and the tech were only trying to share what they knew. But given the alert module has been out for more than 90 days I found this information quite funny! Pretty much - Yes! Given the very fact UDI is the only active vendor supporting Insteon on a large scale. I find it disheartening Smartlabs has dragged their feet for more than 90 days to offer the API to them. This is only second to the very fact not a soul knows where the whole UDI PLM chip deal is ever going to go through.

I suggest you bring the I/O Linc to the same outlet as the PLM or use an extension cord and try again. If doing both fails to add the device back either the hardware is defective or it requires a proper hard reset outlined in the full users manual. When you select Help -> About what does the UI / Firmware say your on? At this point it would be very helpful to launch the level 3 error logging and copy and paste what happens when you try to add the device so others can review the error log.

LOL . . .

Hello Dan, You can download the full users manual which clearly outlines what aspect of the API is accessible etc. I would highly suggest you create an account on the Brultech forum and pose any technical question you may have about the product. Ben / Paul are always very quick to answer any pre-sales questions along with offering excellent service after the sale. The eGauge is definitely geared toward a more commercial audience with limited function and views. In terms of cost per CT there isn't anything on the market that comes even close to the GEM.

Hello Chuck, I read you were having some DST issues before in another thread. Has that issue been resolved as of yet? Also it should be noted somewhere in the 4.4.X branch the UDI team released a DST fix because some of us were seeing a time drift also. In the worst case situation like mine I was seeing *Future Time* like the year was being pushed to 2090 etc. I can't honestly say if the DST fix UDI released in the code was the solution as they sent me a refurbished board and gather it could have been the battery which powers the real time clock.

That is a very new 2413S PLM - Can you offer a little more information about the PLM just for reference sake for others to follow. On the white sticker will be the production date and hardware revision number. Please also state what the ISY indicates as the firmware for this device. Have you plugged the I/O Linc into the same outlet as the other garage circuit that works to see if you can add it back? Again the easiest thing to do is take a really long extension cord and wire it to the same outlet as the PLM and try again. Worst case remove the wires from the device and bring it to the same room as the PLM and try again. Using the extension cord obviously saves you lots of time from rewiring the I/O Linc from the GDO. Since this thread has taken off into several directions lets try to focus on the task at hand. 1. Successfully add all the devices that were deleted and hard reset back to the controller. 2. After doing the above does the door sensor still control the GDO? Its assumed either the hard reset was not done properly or the PLM still has the links in the data base.

Based on all of the reviews and the specs I have read its exactly the same with better speakers & battery.

Easiest thing to do is go get a long extension cord and plug the I/O Linc to a outlet in the house and try again. There's obviously bad comm's or poor electrical coupling in that area of the garage.

My Super Hero for 2016 . . .

Out of course at this point I would unplug the 2413S PLM and wait 10-20 seconds. Reboot the 994 Series Controller next and wait for the controller to come back on line. At this point its just easier to do the following and know if there is something else amiss. 1. Delete the door sensor, hard reset it per the full users manual. Add it back to the ISY and do nothing else from there. 2. Hard reset the I/O Linc, add it back to the controller and report back.

But from a *Human* perspective the majority of people expect when a light (LED) is lit. This denotes something as being on / active where as the light (LED) being off indicates a off / closed state. There are many industries that have tried extremely hard in the *Human Ergonomics* arena like the automotive group. I can tell you from working in this field the industry is still completely lost. If a person has to think about something to make sense of it - that application or representation of such has failed. There are lots of industries and those who design, make, and work in these industries and 50% of them agree its a complete fail. Whereas the other 50% of the engineers simply make excuses for poorly thought out implementation. Bottom line, if you have to think about something - its failed in its objective.

I wanted to know if anyone has started or is using the Beta application of *Ask My Buddy* in the Echo. Essentially as I understand it is this feature will allow a person to send text, email, sms to any listed person in their contacts that is set up. I've been working on a mini project for a few people who are in different stages of disability. Thus having such a feature in times of stress, emergency, or simply to get a message to a family / friend. I find lots of value in this feature and brings this device out of the realm of a toy. To an actual tool which can help many around the world as it should be. Insight . . .

Based on what you wrote it's possible you manually linked it outside of the ISY? Hard reset the door sensor and restore just that unit and report back if the GDO opens. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Hello JL, It should also be noted sometimes you can cheat by using the drop down menu for hardware that are listed. Keeping in mind sometimes going this route works just fine - other times some features or options don't appear or work as expected. The only reason I call this out is say you had to replace a switch linc relay / dimmer. Given these new switches have new firmware it may come up as Insteon Engine blah blah blah. Sometimes (not always) you can cheat simply by picking a similar device. Let us all know how you get on and what the outcome is because I am sure this will help someone else down the line looking to repurpose a 99 Series Controller. For the benefit of others please state the hardware revision and production date of the devices are along with the ISY firmware should it work or not work.

Hello Dan, Out of all of the so called energy meters I have come across and played with first hand. The eGauge is probably less toy like then many of the ones I have seen in the past. The vendor seems to have a good handle on the hardware side but lacks a lot in the end user area with respect to development and access for the DIY crowd. Keeping in mind some of the major bullet points listed below in no specific order. 1. No home automation integration with 3rd party devices like the 994 Series Controller. 2. Almost no charts and graphs besides what is provided in the limited view they provide. 3. Has no ability to customize rate(s) for those using base, tiered, ToU. 4. There is no open API or user base to foster development of the hardware, UI, etc 5. Price per CT to channels is still more than a GEM which offers 32 channels, 8 temp, 4 pulse. If you're looking for a basic energy monitor this device may offer that for you. Since I am biased because I own a Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM) and their Dash Box (DB). Having played with many of the other toys on the market from Aeotech HEM, Smappy, Neurio, Sense, Curb, etc. None of these companies even from the largest from Eaton, Hobo, Schneider Electric offer much in ways of value never mind actual user data that just makes sense. In the last 25 years of being in this industry I have found either the product is geared to dumb to those who have almost no idea about how to render information so its useful. Some of the listed companies like to give you pretty graphs, charts, but when you go deeper and see what actual data is available its almost always lacking in detail to historic capture. If you see a device that offers both detail and historic capture it will not offer you any method to render the data into more graphical charts and graphs. Ultimately 99% of these vendors will not work with a single user to add or expand on a feature in their product offering. If you have tons of money and some kind of presence with them - they will be delighted to assist you for a FEE! None of the major vendors are interested in Home Automation from a DIY perspective but push their internal HA platform and hardware instead which 99% of the time is many times more expensive then what you and I are using. Its safe to say some of the toy like devices that have come to market via Kick Starter / Indigogo will be long gone in five years. Brultech has been in the Energy Monitoring business for more than 20 years. They don't make toasters, beer fridges, and certainly don't make toys. They have been focused on making one of the best energy monitoring / energy management tools in the world. They have been the leader in development and inclusion of the user base since day one. I can tell you from personal first hand experience working with them hand in hand for more than five years as a Alpha / Beta tester. This Canadian company is open minded, agile, and committed. They are committed to offering not only the best value but the most advanced system that the end user can use and have. They don't push their wares and often times offer a free solution for data aggregation before their humble Dash Box (DB). One has to ask themselves why would any company offer in a public forum a solution that is free opposed to pushing their own hardware?!?! Simply put from my point of view its because they are looking toward the future and long term. They know there are lots of DIY smart people willing and able to take the time to prop up a data server to store all of their data. Going this route requires lots of time, learning, patience, and ultimately costs you more and offers less capability. When compared to the DB which is offered as a Plug & Play data storage device. Keeping in mind I use the phrase Plug & Play with some generalization as it does require some time to set up. But in no way is it like investing the amount of time to learn doing the same with the various free software platforms. Which offer next to no support, guidance, or updates which have remained as so for years. As you're probably aware you made a small investment in the 994 Series Controller which over the course of many years has continued to pay back major dividends in terms of constant updates and feature upgrades. All of this has been pretty much a one time purchase for you and I. We have continued to reap the rewards for such a one time investment. You can purchase anything in the open market that suites your near term needs. But I can assure you from personal use and trials of many of these toy like monitors is that it will leave you wanting and frustrated of how limited they are. If you're looking for a solid leader in Energy Monitoring / Energy Management - Which integrates with the ISY Series Controller while also continues to listen to the customer in the development of said product. There really is only one choice and that's Brultech . . .

Do you have trigger reverse enabled on the I/O Linc for the GDO?

I believe all of them will be OK except the mini remote which depends when you got it will be 50/50 chance it's seen.

Just for reference can you indicate what the internal white sticker says for hardware revision and production date along with the ISY firmware.

Historically dual bright motion sensors when paired to a Inline Linc with sense / Micro On-Off with sense. Would not operate properly due the fact the line voltage would not drop off as expected.

Things to note which isn't mentioned in that WiKi entry is sometimes a wait of 0-3 seconds needs to be added to the program. Also you can use the dusk to dawn node to activate the remote device update process. You will quickly find out this remote device write process either works or requires endless fine tuning to get it perfect. In some instances this remote device write simply does not work at all. I don't know what's different in the HL2 application but I haven't seen an issue using Insteons software to accomplish the very same.

No worries and hope very much you're able to determine what components were damaged so you can undertake the repairs. Its a little hard to measure the values with out a reference which is really what you're going to have to do. If you had one good working unit that would be your reference as you probed around looking for variance. Keeping in mind there will be some drift and errors since everything is inline so the expected values may be hard to determine. If you decide to go forward with this make sure you have nice tweezers, magnifying glass, air driven desoldering pencil, and various thickness of desoldering wick. Having a third arm holder is paramount given the small size of the board to keep it in place. There are quite a few zener diodes in Insteon's hardware so it could be as simple one of them blew and no longer conduct properly when called upon. As an aside I am disappointed to hear your Micro On/Off - Dimmers were not able to survive this surge event. I was really hoping the 100-277 VAC operating range would have offered some kind of buffer. But then again both of the units do not offer any mention of a surge rating like there other brothers do. Some of the latest Insteon devices indicate a 1000 volt surge rating but doesn't offer what this value is referenced to. So I have to take that with a grain of salt given many past failures of their products. I would be extremely surprised to find a MOV of any size in their Micro units maybe a small fuse, resistor, at best.

I am a true believer that a whole house SPD is very much worth the investment but sadly these devices do not offer protection in several scenarios. Keeping in mind there are five types of SPD's and there are three common ones people are most familiar with: Type 1, Type 2, Type 3. Type 1 is a primary surge protective device normally installed at the meter entrance from the POCO. This offers the most protection as it intersects with the power lines coming into the building. Type 2 are secondary surge protective devices which are normally installed at the main principle panel. Type 3 are also considered secondary surge protection devices which are often called point of use. They can range from surge outlets, surge bars, line conditioners, to UPS. In all cases each of the three have specific voltage clamping specifications and do not operate until a threshold has been seen / met. Meaning if you had a small surge the Type 1 / 2 may very well not have done any voltage clamping. This is why a layered approach is often highly recommended because Type 3 start to clamp / shunt at a much lower voltage / amperage rating. In all cases a standard SPD offers absolutely no protection against what people often call a *Brown Out*. In technical terms its called a voltage sag / lull. Despite common belief a voltage rise (surge) does not happen just when lighting is present. Everyday your home is inundated with micro surges which are caused from with in the home itself. Anything with a motor, compressor, highly resistive loads that have a quick inrush current draw like LED's etc. All of these appliances / devices cause massive micro surges that most electronics are designed and able to sustain. What many electronics are not designed to endure is extended voltage sags or where the voltage rises past the makers stated operating range. Most electronics are able to sustain voltage from 85 - 150 VAC for brief periods of time with out issue. If the voltage remains in this range exceeding minutes depending upon the power supply and how well regulated the circuit is. Things either are fine or go poof . . . Regardless of all the technology listed above - all of these devices rely on single point solid ground wire to Earth which must have low resistance below 50 ohms. Even the best Earth ground using Ufer grounding will not protect the electronics from induced voltages which can be present during massive lighting strikes which translates to huge (EMF) EMI / RFI in the air. Back on topic: As you probably noted the Micro On-Off module is very compact and most of the components are SMD devices. If I was to undertake this task I would summarily replace any capacitors, diodes, as my first step. You will be very hard pressed to replace the SMD resistors, capacitors, and diodes however. I've done board level repairs for more than 25 years and with out the proper equipment, tools, and experience it makes repairs extremely difficult. This also assumes you're able to determine all of the values and purchase them from Digi Key / Mouser. If any of the transistors are smoked you're pretty much SOL in this area then.

If someone was really on a tight budget I would highly suggest they invest in a quality PTZ camera. If said PTZ camera is well placed for the most coverage of the property it can gap the time it takes for funds to arrive to install dedicated cameras in specific areas. Almost all quality PTZ cameras have guard, roam, and preset positions. Meaning during normal operations it will sweep the entire property at set intervals. If there is movement anywhere in the FOV the system will track and follow the object. This offers huge security, safety, along with situational awareness for the home owner . . . A balanced approach is to install less expansive dedicated cameras else where - nothing wrong with that idea. But, as most of you know as you get older its about spending your money once! Not 9999999999999 times only to learn a hard financial lesson about performance vs value.

For sure and if you decide to go fancy use a KPL dimmer instead. You are spending some cash might as well get some multi-use out of it and be able to control other outdoor loads or have access to ones you didn't before.