no clue

I think I have everything set up correctly to control my devices and scenes with my voice but I have a couple of problems. Alexa will turn on or off scenes and devices. I have enabled both mobilinc custom skills and mobilinc smarthome skills. I received an email notification that refreshing devices was complete. 1. I followed the instructions for creating custom responses by creating a folder in the program tree called Voice. I moved a program into that folder called bathroom hallway lights (bathroom hallway lights are on). I refreshed devices but when I say "alexa, tell mobilinc to run program bathroom hallway lights, it responds with "I am unable to run the scene bathroom hallway lights, can I help you with anything else?". 2. This is probably related to the first question but when I look in the alexa app, I see a lot of devices but no scenes appear under its heading. Also, I don't see programs listed anywhere unless they are piled into the devices. Thanks

I tried gmail and that worked first time. Thanks!

I had a recent heat pump thermostat issue that caused the emergency heating to come on and heated my room >125 degrees F. I want to set up an alert that will notify me if the heat exceeds 90 degrees. I am unable to get this to work using the email notification on my ISY 994. I checked the smtp settings (I have Cox email) and have tried the recommended port settings for TLS checked and also for the unchecked option. I have tried my username only as well as the full email address. With TLS checked, I get a mail server failure (EHLO timed out). With it unchecked, I don't get an error message but don't receive any notification when I test it. Any ideas?

I read the wiki upgrade process and restore modem process but I am unsure of the sequencing. I think I may have been having issues with the old plm and decided it was a good time to upgrade everything. I could communicate with the isy but I couldn't use the admin console to turn lights on and off, etc. I have unplugged both the old isy and plm. If I understand it correctly, it would be best to 1. plug in the new 994 and plm and restore my backup to the new 994. 2. restore plm once the new 994 is up and running Is this correct?

They are actually on two different panels. They are the same age and approximate use so I thought failing bulbs was the most likely cause. It just seems way too premature for them to fail after a year. They are rated for at least 10 times as long as they have been in use.

I purchased 4 of the Insteon LED bulbs about a year or so ago. Out of all of the insteon devices I have, they have been the quirkiest as far as following their respective program instructions, etc. They probably turn on or off correctly about 90% of the time via the program on my ISY99i. A couple of weeks ago, 3 out of the 4 started flickering when turned on and stay that way until the program turns them off at surnrise. The light output is very small and only visible when dark. Is this a sign of the bulb failing or is something elsw going on?

No apologies needed. All of it is actually helpful with regard to programming. Starting from scratch, I have learned quite a bit about the actual wiring of the various switches. The programming is a whole different ball of wax and while it seemed logical at first glance, I have run into problems along the way and all of the discussion is very helpful in putting the pieces together. Now, I'm just waiting for Monday to come along to get the first real test of the program.

I think I have it and it makes sense to me. Thanks for your help as always.

I changed the rate and then added a "then" action to turn on the scene. I removed the "else" statement. At this point, should I create a second program to turn off the scene at 9am?

I have tried a couple of different ways to set this up without success. I would like to gradually ramp up the light in her room to full brightness over 9 mintutes starting at 6:21 am every morning M-F. I attached a screenshot of the current program. It seems simple to me but I am missing something.

Thanks Lee I didn't know the 2474D switch existed. I'll give it a try.

Thanks all I don't know for sure that the hot wire comes directly from the panel and probably misspoke. There are definitely other lights/receptacles on the circuit. I may try to take out the box for the sconce and replace it with a deeper one so I can fit an inline linc. The LED bulb wouldn't be an option for the new sconces I have on order. They take a decorative small profile bulb. Xanthros - I feel your pain. I have learned a lot replacing all of the switches and receptacles in the house with Insteon stuff but each switch seems to throw me a new issue. I haven't run across any 2 way, 3 way, 4 way, and yes, even a 5 way switch that was wired correctly. They all require their own secret combination to operate .

I figured it out. My IP address from my internet provider apparently changed. Plugged in the new one and everything looks good.

I was going to add an insteon dimmer switch to a light sconce and ran into this situation. It appears the hot wire coming from the panel comes into the sconce box (shown in pic) instead of the switch box. In the attached photo, the bare black wire is hot. The bare neutral wire was attached to the hot wire and brought the power to the switch. I believe the black capped wire is the load wire coming from the switch. There are only 3 wires coming into the switch box; the white (hot) wire, the black (load), and the ground. The round box for the sconce is very shallow and I'm not sure I could fit an inline linc switch without some modification.

I lost the ability for Mobilinc Pro on my iphone to communicate with my ISY-99i a couple of months ago.I finally have time to try to address it. When I go in devices on mobilinc pro, I get a blank screen. I attempt to sync and the app eventually times out. today I upgraded my ISY-99i from 3.2.5 to 3.3.3 to see if that would help but it didn't. I haven't changed any of the settings either on the ISY-99i or Mobilinc pro. Mobilinc is unable to sync even when home connected to my network. Any ideas of what I can try?

The electrician came and diagnosed both issues. Regarding the original issue, there were no neutrals in the 5 gang outlet as everyone here thought except for the ones that are on a different circuit. He seemed to think it would be no problem using those neutrals for my issue but I told him I was reluctant to do that based on what was said here. We went out to the detached garage and found the box that has all of the neutrals tied together before they come to the house. I suppose I can use the in-line lincs for those. On the second issue, it turned out I had another switch part of a 3 way switch that I was unaware of. I am going to install another dimmer on that one and everything should be good to go. Thanks again for all of the help!

Ok, so I just introduced the Insteon switch back into the mix. At first, the admin console notified me it had lost communication with it so I deleted the switch and added it back in. Now I am able to control it so maybe it was a loose connection? I thought I had everything nice and tight before but this time, I trimmed the neutral insulation back just a bit and bundled everything back together. Unfortunately, I still have the issue with the bedroom lights remaining on at all times. I was able to determine that several other of my adjacent room lights feed off of the same supply wire (that goes off of the bathroom light switch to the master bedroom switch) and they are all functioning normally. I think I am going to go off the assumption that during all of the on/offs at the breaker panel, it somehow screwed up the old dimmer switch. That old switch is on my list for replacements so I will find out soon.

The bathroom fixture is a 2 bulb incandescent. It wasn't on a dimmer before but I don't think it would be a problem. I'm sorry I must have missed the question about the access points and UPS issues. I do have surge devices on the same circuit as the PLM. It hasn't caused any issues up to this point and I have installed about 10 -12 insteon devices so far; both in the detached garage where the ISY-99i/PLM resides and in the house. I have been adding access points as I go along and find a need for them. I have also added many dual band switches. So far, I have 4 access points and at least two dual band devices. I have about 4 more dual band switches to install. I'm thinking about giving the bathroom fixture another crack and capping off the supply to the bedroom light to see if that takes care of the control problem. I have an electrician coming this afternoon to take a look at the original issue and possibly this one. I am also going to knock out as many others as possible to rule out other issues before he gets here. Thanks for all of your help. This has been a really good learning experience so far.

Yes, this is the way I see it. Agreed, this would not explain lack of control. Are you confident in the connection? What is the load on the insteon switch? Do you have access points or other dual band devices to couple the legs of your electrical system? From where are you trying to control the insteon switch? The load on the insteon switch is for the bathroom light. The only thing I tried for control was from the ISY-99i admin panel. No issues at all when linking but I just couldn't affect it in any way from the admin panel. Unless I accidentally mixed up one of the blacks, I can't figure what has changed. The two blacks from the top of the switch were already both hot when connected to the previous switch (when switch was off) so all I did was connect the line wire from the insteon to it. One was the line wire and I assume the other goes to the bedroom dimmer.

I think the white wire you are referring to is actually a black wire with a white paint splotch. I think that one is the load for the bathroom light. I was wondering if maybe it was wired correctly but something happened to the bedroom light dimmer when I was turning the breaker on and off multiple times. That wouldn't explain why I can't control the insteon switch though.

Thanks for the replies, I am going to call an electrician first thing in the morning. I have been moving on to less challenging switches and only attempting the ones that looked straightforward. This morning, I was replacing an on/off switch in my bathroom with an Insteon dimmer. I found the box had 3 sets of wires coming in (white. black. ground on each). All white neutrals were wired together. The remaining 3 blacks had two wires at the top of the switch (one inserted into the clip at the top and one looped around the screw) and the remaining black wire was inserted into the clip on the bottom. I tested each black with the switch in the off position and the top two wires were both hot. The black wire on the bottom tested 0 volts and I thought this was the load for my bathroom light. I wired the neutral into the bundled whites and the Insteon red wire to the load. The top two wires were wired to the line on the Insteon dimmer. I turned on the breaker and tested the Insteon dimmer and it worked fine as far as turning on and dimming. I linked it to the ISY-99i without problem but it wouldn't respond to commands. I also noticed that my bedroom light attached to a dimmer would not dim or turn off. I took the Insteon switch out and put everything back together the way I found it (at least the way I think I found it) and the bathroom light still works ok but the bedroom light on the dimmer is still on full brightness and won't dim or turn off. Did I get something wrong here when I wired the Insteon switch. I thought I pushed the load for the bathroom light away from the other two blacks. I attached a couple of images.

I believe you explained it perfectly. It sounds like I don't have a neutral. I am going to call an electrician to take a look and verify or see if there is some way to hook these up. The good news is I have since added 4 new switches to my main house and they have successfully made the "jump" from the garage to the house via RF. I was worried the distance might be too much.

Thanks for the quick reply. The white wire being the line is the main thing that threw me. I thought since it tested hot and was the one that all three switches were wired to, that would be the line. The other three wires all tested 0 volts when I did a ground to each wire test. The fact that this is a detached garage makes this extremely difficult to run another wire without a lot of digging. I will call an electrician and look into the inlinelinc.

I am replacing three switches in a 5 gang box in my house. The 3 switches are on a circuit that is on a separate panel in my detached garage and control 3 different garage lights. The two remaining switches stay live when I turn off the circuit for the garage lights. The 3 garage lights are being fed by two electrical cables coming into the box. Each has a white, black, and ground wire. The line wire is white and all 3 switches use this wire. Each switch has another wire that goes to the 3 remaining black - black - and white wire with black tape around it. The line wire (tested hot) connects to the line for each Insteon but I'm not sure how to wire the rest. Are the 3 remaining wires all load wires? If so, what do I do about the neutral connection? There are neutrals in the box but those go to a different circuit which is also probably on a different panel in the house. My electrical skills are limited as is obvious but I am hoping someone will understand what is going on here and can tell me before I call an electrician. I plan on using a dual mode switch here to help bridge the house and garage.

Thanks I had a feeling it might be something like that; otherwise, everyone would do it.