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lbiffle

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  • Location
    Arizona
  • Occupation
    Retired computer guru

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  1. 4.7.3 for both. The hub said it was configuring the fanlinc. Whatever it did made the device work. Thanks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. (My reply via browser didn’t go, so imagine my previous one to be after this resend of the missing one. *grin*) Get a hub. I finally gave up on the ISY and my fanlinc, as I REALLY needed to get my wife a fan solution. The ISY thought it was working the fan, but nothing was right. Comm failures, no power out to the motor, reboot loops with a load on the light output, buttons worked and the ISY saw the state, but couldn’t change it. I was getting V.00 on a query. So I introduced this fanlinc to a hub, giving the address and a name, and letting it figure out the rest. It went through the 10-step comm test quickly, and then wrote something to the fanlinc. I tested it from the IOS app, and the light worked. So... I deleted it from the ISY and re-added it, putting it back into the scenes I had built, and now everything is working fine on the bench. My guess is: There is some initial configuration item that was probably hardcoded in the firmware of the old fanlincs, that is not In the new ones, and nobody at Smarthome knows that, because they always test with a hub, which automatically fixes the issue. They don’t see your problem, and the working RMA’d units we get back clearly spent their last minutes on the bench talking to a hub. So, fresh, out-of-the-box fanlincs are braindead until they bond with a hub. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Sorry, my resurrected fanlinc says “3.0S 3018” on the back, and is seen as v.45 by my ISY. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Has anyone opened old and new FanLincs to see if the change in colors is valid? Did they accidentally start building with colors in a different order, and now we’re all connecting them wrong, and frying them? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. If you have any ferrite cores, try looping the cables through them as many times as you can, and see if that kills/reduces the signal. I’ve had switching power supplies that generated birdies a long way up the spectrum, though not up to 2 meters. My ISYs don’t produce noise up there, but they’re not very current in firmware. Good luck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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