ScottAvery

adding the port worked. I had found a reference to using this format without the port 8443: https://192.168.0.145/desc and that was failing. connected right away with the port included. THANKS!

Tried the clear cache with all three checked, ran start.jnlp again. Was using that same version as linked on the wiki that you are sent to from portal. No change. it can't find the eisy. definitely same network since i can get into the polyglot console.

I didn't have too much trouble with the upgrade once I got the admin console sorted on my PC, but the PC died (hard drive failure) and i have not been able to get my laptop to connect. I have a fresh install of standard java and the launcher will open, but it does not find the EISY. trying to add by IP also fails. I tried adding the new java web start to the firewall and that did not help. tried disabling firewall and virus scan altogether (both windows defender) and that didn't work either. I can see the eISY through the portal and I can go to port 3000 directly through a browser, but logging into portal or polyglot doesn't help me. I need to change the time on the EISY. all my nighttime lighting routines are off by a few hours. machine is windows 11 if it matters. thoughts?

Is it still possible to find a 500 series zwave card for a 994i? I have not upgraded or even touched my system in ages and was caught off guard by the end of support. It has always just worked...

I have bought Hyperikon, too. Probably have 4 different variants. I have an odd behavior in that both sizes of floods used from Hyperikon react to the microwave being on. I have not fugured out if it is power draw or some sort of noise being fed back into the circuits. Neither lighting circuit is particularly close to the microwave and no bulbs of other brands have a reaction. One set is on an Insteon dimmer and the other on a non-smart Lutron, similar to the configurations of the GE bulbs I mentioned above, but here the only common denominator is the bulb brand. I have bought some of the big in-line x10 filters to try to isolate the microwave, but it will be easier to just change bulbs. I keep trying different brands and keep getting disappointed. I have two different variants of AmazonBasics MR16 bulbs that came in recently, and neither of those are great. The "commercial" version is actually awful.

Is there documentation for AVRemote somewhere? I found the old RESTRemote repository on GitHub... Is that it? Looking to implement JVC control and it may fit into your framework.

I have been experimenting with bulbs as well. I tried GE Relax bulbs, ordered in 8 pack from Amazon. They did not dim nearly as low as cheap Costco FEIT bulbs, so they are not useful to me with Insteon. The FEITs go well under 10% and the GEs stop at 20-30%. In a room with a Lutron non-smart dimmer they worked fine, dimmed down very low. Is there a Zwave dimmer that is not the same Triac design as Insteon? I saw Homeseer branded dimmers on Amazon that I had not noticed before. Anyone tried them with LEDs? I have a ton of spare Insteons from the annual sales, but I may try something else for a few rooms. What bulbs ARE you all having success with for your Insteon switches?

It works out to 9% change per dim/brighten call to a scene through the UDI portal. I'm not sure if that triple pulse also works with mobilinc - it may just be 3% each.

To close it out, I looked at lots of options and individual parts, but did find a wallwart that came with a prefit attachment to connect to bare wire and I bought a trigger cable with pre-tinned bare cable ends. Both came in packages of two, so I have two triggers for $20. I could have bought individual parts, or stripped and connected wires, for less, but thought this was a small price to pay to be sure that it would be a solid connection and not a fire hazard. Paired an on/off module with a remotelinc single scene switch: worked the first time, and every time.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. That was my expectation but I wanted someone to confirm before I risked damage to the device. I did see a cheap USB 5v to 12v step up transformer that could work if I don't find a 12v adapter.

Thanks all, I do have both an I/O linc and on/off module on the shelf I can use without further expense, but I would need to find an appropriate 12v transformer. I have lots of 5v transformers laying about but I don't think I will find a 12v with so little output: 100mA is my understanding. And I will have to cut the cable to use it unless I find some sort of adapter... Not an electrician: Can I use a higher rated device and the trigger will only pull what it needs or would a higher amp transformer burn it out?

I have a device that can only be controlled by 12v trigger - it slides a lens in and out of place for a projector. Binary position, one position when no signal, other side when receiving a constant 12v signal. Dunno what amperage, but it works with the signal sent from my projector. I want an external control other than the projector and I don't seem to have a device with a controllable output. My thought was I/O Linc to interrupt a constant 12v signal, or an on/off module with a 12v wallwart plugged into it. Anyone have a recommendation, or a better way? Thanks!

second plm dead and Amazon doesn't have any replacements - this repair requires more than a radio shack soldering iron, I take it?

I still have one echo not working

I don't think Scenes is the issue because one of my Alexa groups still works with "lights" and it only contains scenes. The one in my bedroom stopped working. The only thing odd about it that I can tell is that one of the devices is a switch instead of a light, which I chose as a reminder to me that it was not dimmable.