Gee

I have a Dimming KPL(2334) wired to a set of hall sconces. In a separate adjacent hallway, I have a ceiling fixture (not wired to the KPL) with an Insteon 2672 LED bulb. I have set up a scene were the main KPL key pad brings up the sconces to 12% and also brings the 2672 LED bulb in the adjacent hall to 12%. Everything works fine ! Am I "OK" with this ? I understand not to wire a dimmer to the 2672 LED bulb. What I'm fuzzy on is how the bulb, as a responding scene member, is being powered up/controlled when the key on the dimmer is pressed. Also, local dimming of both the bulb and the sconces works fine (and in tandem) when the main key is held in, which is precisely what I desire. I just want to be safe with this.

thanks

Let me try this again. Will the HUB "function" the same as a $39.95 Range Extender Item #: 2992-222 AND not screw-up the ISY if no devices are linked to the HUB ? Yes ? or No ?

So I can use da HUB - as a range extender even without any devices linked to da HUB, and it will function as a range extender in my system, and IT WILL NOT SCREW UP THE ISY and by FUNCTION, I mean that it will extend the range of all insteon devices hooked up in my home and linked to the ISY, but NOT LINKED TO da HUB ? YES ? or NO ?

plastic

Tedious, very tedious. OK, can I use the HUB (since it is all ready money spent) as a range extender ? Specifically, the open/close sensor is the furthest away from everything else. The ISY sees the HUB, the devices see the HUB, the open/close sensor sorta sees the HUB. If I clear the HUB of all devices and go solely with the ISY, can I still have the HUB plugged in at a central location (empty with no devices added to the HUB) and utilize it as a system wide range extender ? I'm assuming the interaction between devices via RF is "passive" (ie that the HUB will forward Insteon RF signals to the power line regardless of it's being program aware of that device) ?

If I must physically visit each module and do a factory reset on each (as has been suggested) does this imply that the Insteon HUB will then need to be re-linked or worse, does this imply that you must choose between either the HUB or the ISY but you can not utilize both ?

Used the HUB app on my phone to get the addresses of each device (while I was in front of my computer) and added everything - except the Open/Close and the Motion Sensors. Pretty clear now these will require a personal visit in order to link them. Still, doing the bulk of the linking from my computer was preferred, and I've managed to accomplish this. Since I just happened to begin the linking process (this time around) with the Open/Close sensor, it stymied my progress being unawares this particular device MUST be woken up. Live & learn. Would be nice if the ISY could just query/search and discover or even read the HUB data since I had managed to "link" the HUB a while ago (don't even remember when I did that).

"I tried posting..." I'm familiar with the interface. When "I tried" I got a message from the board regarding the inability to post imgs to this forum. I will do a reset and go from there (up to a point)

Firmware is 4.3.26 plus the "FAIL" message references the device specifically - it wouldn't know what it is if the firmware was older than the device, I'd imagine ? no trick, how about a sensible and convenient way ? is there a sensible-convenient way to accomplish adding 10 devices in every corner of the home ? I tried posting a screen capture but I can't do that here either The message sez: NEW DEVICE ERRORS then it shows the address I entered then the device model number then the device name ("Open/Close Sensor v.00 then "- Cannot determine Insteon Engine"

Do I actually have to add each insteon device by going to each one individually or is there a "trick" ? Also, Trying to add an Open/Close 2843-222 device. I am manually entering the Isnteon address and I get a "fail" message I have an insteon hub and a lot of devices already in service. I've had the UD isy994i for years but it's such a PITA I've gotten little use out of it

Teken, I grasp the issue of extreme ambient temps adversely effecting electronic equipment, and do not fault Smarthome or Insteon for that reality. Right now, however, the temps in my attic are within a normal range. The comm problem is what I'm feed up with. If the 2473 unit worked as it should, dealing with ambient temps would be something I'd be willing to address. For example, I saw this INSTEON 2634-222 On/Off Outdoor Module (Dual-Band) . This 2634 "should" obviate the concern about ambient temps, no ? (AND IT'S "DUAL BAND" unlike the old version of the 2473 I was unwitting sold). I'd consider spending the extra bucks (over the Levitron) for this outdoor module IF my 2473 in normal temps even implied that I'd have a functional set up. But what I have is comm issues that are nothing but a black hole. Is it line noise from the fan itself ? Is it a phase coupling issue ? Is it some other device in my house that needs filtering ? Is it several devices (I have a bunch of UPS's for audio and computer equipment) ? The Levitron will be installed within the bathroom (I will bite the bullet and run some romex from the fixture power source in the attic), but the Levitron itself will be in the living space. I'll get both a timer functionality and a humidity sensor functionality AND IT WILL BE RELIABLE AND FUNCTIONAL out of the box (most likely). I don't mean to seem argumentative and I do appreciate all the input, but I'm pretty PO'd over all the insteon money I've already spent for nothing much more then the same sort of X10 aggravation I was trying to eliminate.

Going with one of these: Leviton IPHS5-1LW Humidity Sensor and Fan Control If I have to go up into the attic again, if I have to spend $$$$ on devices to make the device I bought work like it should, if I have to wait for a newer version Insteon device that will be out any day now (after I've unknowingly bought the old one), then I think I'll just run some romex and get it done. Thanks again

KPL= 2486d v.41 is that "dual band" ? 2413S = YES "S" What's the least expensive way to phase couple this mess - er, ah "SmartHome" ? A 2406h ?

Well, I think I've had it for today. Another day, I will try and crawl up into the attic, through all the carefully redistributed loose fill that was displaced when I installed this "OUTLETLINC" marvel last week and disconnect the fan to test out the FAN theory. At this time, I have only the OUTLETLINC, the 6way switch, the houselinc modem that came with my 994i, and a ControlLinc 4071. Can I still do this "4tab test" ? The thing I don't understand is if I have the OL and the Modem on the same circuit what does the phase coupling have to do with it - if I have a phase couple issue in the house I can address that separately and later on. Right now, I just want to press a button an have my exhaust fan come on for 30 mins I just want the #@$% outlet to %$^# work - jeesh !

I'm very grateful to be getting all this help. I have updated my firmware to 4.2.18(RC8). I have also moved my 994i and PowerLinc Modem to an outlet on the same circuit breaker as my 2473. What I have found is this: If I cut the circuit breaker off, then turn it back on, the OutletLinc 2473 shows up in the UD software and is functional for an "ON". If I then go and send an "OFF", the FAN/2473 turns off and then I get "Failed to communicate" message box popup and I lose my 2473 comm. If I cut the breaker off, then back on, I have reset whatever(???) and the 2473 works for an "on" and comm dies with the first "off" sent. It didn't do that initially (the first day or so after I installed it. I don't know what has changed - again I'm wondering if the 2473 is defective. To clarify, this is a new installation (previously I had an X10 RF module that worked fine). I thought I was "upgrading" with this Insteon stuff, now I'm not so sure. Moving to an outlet on the same circuit breaker should (at least temporarily) elimiate a phase couple issue for this particular 2473, correct ? Now to start with the noise crap is like Elmer Fudd taking a shot gun to his house trying to kill the pesky wabbit - I don't feel like destroying my house/wallet to get this working. I know the 2473 is getting power because I still have my X10 RF module plugged into the uncontolled portion of the outletlinc and the x10 RF is functional. Any ideas ??? Thanks again.

Teken, Temps in the attic space (right now, anyway) are in a normal range (I'm in South Eastern Pennsylvania not far from Balto MD). I did not know the Beta firmware was the way to go - To me "Beta" implies potential unknowns which I just figured I didn't need to add to my situation. I will give the "beta" a shot. I hope it's just a phase thing

Teken, Thanks for the reply. I will have to explore the "4 tap test" - I don't know if my system is properly coupled or not. The OUTLET controls a bathroom exhaust fan. (FYI- When I have comm with the 2473, it powers up the fan with no probs. My "scene" turns it on for 30mins then off. I use a 2486D Keylinc 6way to initiate the timer). My ISY firmware is:v4.0.5 thanks again, -g

I dabble with this. I'm not (nor do I seek to be) an electrical engineer. I've installed a 2473. At first, it showed up in "UD" software. I even incorporated it into a program and also a scene. It WAS all functional. Now, for whatever reason, I see a RED exclamation point in the "UD" software., but also, it will sometimes show back up and be functional. In short, communication with the outlet device is erratic and unreliable. The device is in my attic space and physically attending to it is extremely difficult - I WAS hoping to do this ONCE - ie install it and forget it. I don't really have a clue. Is the device defective ? Is there some sort of phase coupler that I need ? Is it line noise that needs a filter ? I don't know. Thanks in advance -g

I did a brief search on "2413uh" and did not see this already asked, so forgive me if this is old stuff. I'm getting ready to take the plunge. Can I use a 2413UH with an ISY994i (instead of the 2412S) if I use a USB/Serial adapter cable ? I'd like to acquire the Houselinc software and compatibility with this purchase even though it might just be redundant to the ISY994i. The ISY bundle comes with a 2412S. By purchasing the PLM seperately and buying a 2413UH it would be about $20 bucks more, but I'd pick up the Houselinc software. Thanks in advance.