Jay

Hi, folks: Have had one of my switchlincs give me trouble since the beginning. I initially thought it was a wiring issue on my part inside the box. The original issue was the LED back light would turn off completely. So.. as a solve, I created a program to set the LED brightness multiple times during the day. Then the problem became when pressing the buttons on occasion, the switch would reset as if I pulled the airgap. It comes back on a few seconds after, and initiates the state (button) I pressed. Then it progressed to when it does function, it makes a vibration noise when turning on or off (relay vibrates loudly for the 1 second on or off) Now, it’s always vibrating if powered. See video: The point of all this is has anyone sent one of these in for repair, or had similar problems but found a fix? For years I thought it was an external wiring problem in the elec box, but I’m pretty sure it’s internal to the switch itself. TIA, Jay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No doubt it’s a vacuum and a puff of air from somewhere. I’ve learned to live with it, I just don’t want to have to be late to relighting it, hence the smart monitoring. All things considered, I’m pretty stoked about implementing the tags. Love the vehicle approaching inside the homes geofence. Mobile phones haven’t been reliable for me on that front (crap cell coverage here). Proximity with a tag sounds slick. Thanks to all for your input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To be clear, nothing is going inside the exhaust flue. I was going to merely have the end of the probe touching the exterior of the flue above the LNG hot water tank (it's 4" galvanized pipe). Alternatively, I was also considering touching the probe to the copper hot water line coming out of the top of the tank. That reading would be more stable (less high spikes and low spikes), although the notification timing may take longer than the other way. I fully understand the safety factor in that the pilot outage is deactivating the gas for good reason (thermocoupler at the bottom of the tank). I just go through this problem every year when the season changes. Plumbers have been in can't figure it out, it SHOULDn't be happening (this is in a mechanical closet in my garage for the suite above said garage). Venting, temperature, I don't know what is causing it but it happens every fall/winter season for like a month and constantly checking the pilot is a PITA so I'd rather get notified by a smart appliance so I can catch it before my tenant notices they have no hot water. Here's the top of the tank.

Thanks LarryLix. I'm a Canadian as well, do you get your tags directly from the on-line CAO store or is there a better distribution channel for Canada? This would be a new install so here's what I was going to get if I understand your suggestion correctly: One Ethernet Manager: https://wirelesstags.myshopify.com/products/ethernet-tag-manager One Outdoor probe with K-Type Thermocouple for 0°C-400°C ($69USD, to be clear on probe type) https://store.wirelesstag.net/products/outdoor-probe-thermocouple?variant=15374029684838 Thanks!

Excellent, thank you. Those wireless tags look like a great solution. The idea I have is to attach a probe (like metal meat thermometer type) to the exhaust vent stack for the hot water tank and set a program to alert if the temperature drops below say 70F (because the pilot blew out) I get an alert tonrelight before the tank temp drops significantly. When the hot water tank is in heat cycle the upper temp is around 200F. It would melt a plastic probe, hence my desire for a metal probe. Was the wireless tag probe solution you were thinking the outdoor model DS18B20? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s the problem: I have a gas fired hot water tank that every so often has the pilot light blown out by wind or doors closed too quickly. I’d like to have a metal probe temp sensor attached to the exhaust pipe that is always at a warm temperature from the pilot light, or hot temperature when the burners are on (not a plastic probe as it’d melt). If I had some method of being alerted brought the ISY when the temp drops below warm I could get the pilot back on before the hot water cools off. Any ideas? Or alternate ideas? Thx! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay. I did the same; I thought you had the app working. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great news. Any tips on getting the actual iOS app installed? I just keep getting bounced back and forth between the US and Canadian stores; I find the app on the US store and it tells me I have to switch and get it in the CAN store and then bang, it's not findable in the CAN store. UGH...

I use a DLI DIN relay as well for lawn irrigation. It is bullet proof. I haven't done much with integration with the ISY though. I've set up variables to track and control each zone but until I brave programming for weather with a weather module. I use the built in scripting with the relay. Xathros is who originally posted about it a while back and got me looking to integrate one. A planned vacation to Cali a couple years ago made importing it into Canada easy since shipping was a no go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm behind on my reading and updates with the ISY (4.3.26). So when I went to read up on the ISY Weather module, I was surprised to see this new ISY-Portal (and frankly confused). I was going to add the weather module to my ISY so I can integrate my Digital Loggers DIN-Relay used for irrigation (with my Network module purchased last year). I use the BASIC program on the DIN-Relay right now for irrigation. I'm venturing slowly into using the ISY to send triggers to the DIN-Relay. Was going to venture fully into it using the weather module. But.... Key points/questions: 1) I already own the Network module (so I can trigger the DIN-Relay with the ISY among other things). 2) I utilize MobiLinc Pro to great effect with GeoFence triggers etc. 3) Why would I buy (sorry, rent/subscribe) to the ISY-Portal to get access to the network module I already own (I understand UDI is offering a subscription extension to those Network module owners like me). The benefit of subscribing instead of owning the network module is to get easier, non-port forwarding access to the ISY, IFTTT channel integration (this is interesting), and use of the Network module but from what I've read, having the ISY Portal in place ends the usefulness of MobilLinc (no more geofence) ? Which was $$$ by it's own right. 4) Am I being forced to this new subscription model if I upgrade my ISY to 4.4.x or will I retain the Network Module I own? I am fully aware how subscription models work, it does support development which is a good thing, but I certainly don't want to throw away the good money I spent on MobilLinc (or it's excellent functionality). Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Jay

Ahhh thanks. I see the problem now in relation to the online / micro versus a standard SwitchLINC or KPL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Teken, what was the issue with dual bright? I've been using a KPL for a few years on my dual-bright incandescent porch lights (on/off, not dim). The dual bright is a local setting on the lamps along with the motion and/or dusk dawn. I'm curious. Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great thread, thanks for sharing. You can add my 2413S V1.A 1239 to the group of failed PLMs. A couple Canadian users here mentioned they ordered some extra caps for their fellow Canadians with the same PLM problem. If any of you who did have 2 extra sets available for sale to pop into an envelope and mail to BC, please get in touch. Please PM me info and price and I can PayPal payment and address info to you. Thanks, Jay

Some things to try: *Update your Java to the latest version *Clearing java cache *Using UDI's link to connect to your ISY Admin: https://www.universal-devices.com/udi-support/ Click the big red "My ISY" button.

I hear you Brian. Yes, Else isn't implemented in the way your intending this program to run. May I suggest you remove the ELSE on this program, duplicate the program (right-click COPY) and in the second copy of said program, reverse the time (so instead of sunset to sunrise, it's sunrise to sunset) and use the previous commands you had in ELSE statements as the commands you have in the new copied programs THEN statement. Leave ELSE blank on both. That should fix you up.