romeo_echo

That is true. With all eight bulbs I bought in place, dimming does indeed seem to be smooth. I think they tried really hard to match the dimming curve of an incandescent! I don't see any adverse effects on my insteon network but I'm not pro enough to know what to look for -- everything still kind of just works, so that seems OK :) I just bought 16 more, let's hope they are all the same thing! Thanks,

WOW!!! I just got in my (first) 8-pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08667GGJW?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER TOTALLY different dimming curve than the "same" Philips Warm LED dimmable bulbs I bought two years ago... now my sunrise does look exactly like the pics lilyoyo1 uploaded! They also seem WAY "warmer" than my old "warm" LEDs at the lower light levels. Oddly, there doesn't seem to be any kind of model number or version/revision number on the box, or on the bulbs themselves, so there's no way to be sure my next purchase will be the same bulb with the same technology (except to check the SKU/UPC code). I am STOKED. I just redesigned my sunrise program, I can't wait to see it in the A.M. THANKS ALL

Thanks lilyoyo1. Those pictures don't look at all like my dimming curve. And FYI, this problem is not the same as some people are describing where the lights won't come on at all until dimmer hits high numbers like 40%. Mine come on when my ISY/LampLinc is at 1% -- they jump up to a level that looks awfully dim in the daytime, but in the pitch dark of a "sunrise" scenario, it's quite a jump... especially when I have eight lightbulbs in my master bedroom (hey I like it bright when I need it ) Anyway, I just bought the lastest Philips warm LEDs (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08667GGJW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details), when they come in I will report back as to whether the dimming curve has improved over my two-year-old bulbs (which should be the "same", they are also Philips warm LEDs). I also worked around the problem a bit by having a couple of smaller incandescent accent lights that do their sunrise thing about 15 minutes before the LEDs flare up to their so-called "1%" .... kind of takes the edge off. But a nicer LED dimming curve couldn't hurt too ... Thanks all for the input!

Hi all, I didn't know where else to put this question, so I'm just throwing it out there... My question is about dimmable bulbs. Which (LED, white, warm, dimmable) bulb has the best "dimming curve"? I bought a bunch of these, which have a nice warm glow when turned down: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CFRCGKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The problem is, when I change the brightness control on them from 0% (off) to, say, 1% or 2%, they just kind of snap on at dim but still fairly bright value. It is quite a jump, especially if you're trying to do a "sunrise" type thing. Very unlike an incandescent bulb, which at 1 or 2% is more like an extinguished matchhead that is still glowing, if even that. Are there ANY LED bulbs that have truly incandescent-like dimming curve? Or is there a bulb known to have the best dimming curve, even if it's not quite incandescent-like? One requirement would be that the bulb also achieve "normal" brightness, 60-watt equivalent or better... just switching to a very low watt LED bulb wouldn't be a good solution, as these also have to function as my normal room lights. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this topic. Just FYI, my system is an ISY 994i that controls a lot of Insteon LampLincs and OutletLincs.. the dimming curve is of course awesome when using incandescents. --Ralph

SwitchLinc! That's what they're called. Thanks for the reminder. As I tried to say above (but couldn't remember the name), I got rid of my SwitchLincs because I don't have Neutral wiring and thus lost ability to control the lamp/light the switch used to control. I think I've got about six used SwitchLincs I could sell to someone at a reasonable price via ebay or just via paypal, if anyone's interested, I wouldn't use them again unless I got my whole house rewired. Cheers, Ralph

So true! I was able to simplify my system greatly once I went "full alexa", and got rid of all my wall switches and RemoteLincs completely, but man when the cloud is down, it is TOUGH out there without a Plan B!!! Thanks again all!

Thanks all! Good to know the 2342-222 is still viable, just wish they were cheaper and/or more popular?! Might go order one now... Cheers, --Ralph

Hi all, Short version of the question: What is the latest good alternative for a battery-operated or rechargeable controller, like the RemoteLinc 2? Those don't seem to be much of a thing any more... Back Story: After the recent portal outage, I've been looking at more ways to implement local control for my 994i. So I broke out my old RemoteLinc 2 (model 2444A2) which I hadn't been using, but unfortunately the rechargeable battery had swollen so much that it's not usable. So I went to look for a new one. After proceeding cautiously because my browser said SmartHome.com was not a safe website (!?!?), I find that the new model is 2342-222, however SmartHome.com is almost the only place that has it in stock, so, it's far from popular...plus they are hella pricey... Should I buy one of these? Are these even still the same thing as a RemoteLinc 2? (Places that sell it never mention "remotelinc"... i.e. Would I still add them via the "Link a RemoteLinc 2" option)? Is there a better alternative that is programmable in the same way through the ISY 994 Administrative Console? I have some wired in-wall controllers, but I generally don't like to use them because my wiring is ancient (no neutral) so I can only use them if I'm willing to lose local control of the lighting fixture in question...Thus a battery or rechargeable option would be preferred. Any suggestions welcome, thanks much! Ralph

Thanks MrBill, good info. Quick question though: I've never contacted Universal Devices for support directly before... As a casual owner of a single ISY994i, am I allowed to open tickets by sending an email to that support@universal-devices.com also? Or do I need to be some kind of subscriber or developer or something to open a ticket? Cheers, Ralph

online for me now since 11:07am Mountain time Sunday. Thanks for fixing!

well, as advertised, it is extremely simple & barebones, so I'm not sure it's fair to compare. Also, apparently, it cannot use the portal, however it can do both internal & external access but that means you'd have to cut a hole in your firewall, I guess, which is the whole pain that the portal avoids. I'm just impressed that it does exactly what it says it does, and works! Hope that helps,

Just wanted to say thanks. ISY Portal is currently offline, so I found your app, bought it, tried it, it works over local network with no portal required. WoooooO!!!!! I'm sorry, I would leave you a good review on Google Apps but my google account is "corporate" and they don't allow app reviews on a corporate account, boo. So this thanks will have to do. Cheers, Ralph

My portal is showing offline too! Since 11:19 pm Mountain time, Saturday night. Everything else is working fine. Posting this so I can follow and get updates. Is there also a better forum to post problems like this? I thought I saw the description say this forum is only for developers...? On the new UD Mobile app, does anyone know if there's a way to flip-flop between portal connectivity and local network connectivity? It only seems to offer portal connectivity, right? Thanks, Ralph

thanks all for the feedback. yep I've lived with 8 minutes forever, I can go on living with it Would love to see even longer options but I guess that's not going to happen either

Hi there, I have question that has always bugged me but I've always just lived with it. Thought I might throw it out there and see if there's an actual fix. I have an ISY 994i (firmware 5.3.4, dated 2021-07-07) and lots of Insteon OutletLincs and LampLincs. Everything has always worked great, except... When I set a device in a scene to have a ramp rate of 8.0 minutes, everything works fine. However when I set the ramp rate to the max of 9.0 minutes, it ramps very fast, it looks the same as a ramp rate of 2.0 seconds. Any thoughts? Is there a secret setting to get max ramp rate of 9.0 minutes to actually work? Does everyone have this problem with LampLincs and OutletLincs? Thanks, Ralph