etsvilik

I had an existing ademco keypad that started acting weird. My solution was to power down the panel, disconnecting battery and AC for a minute. Than quickly reassign keypad address. I believe you need to press 1 and 3 within 60 sec to do it after powering up. Addresses start at 16. Somehow the keypad forgot it's address. Make sure you don't have other keypads on the same address.Honeywell keypad

Exactly my point. Power line being as fail over protocol for RF to extend the reach. Powerline component of Insteon device may work in similar fashion to WiFi powerline extenders. It delivers comms to further distance and allows remote device to act as an Insteon RF access point. Mixed media mesh. RF can be made more reliable. Lutron Radio RA are pretty solid albeit high cost. It takes higher quality components, stable oscillators and noise reduction techniques. I found CAO sensors being very reliable RF devices with great range.

Giving that Insteon is a resurrected X10 - they have good chances to stay relevant long term . If one believes in Lindy Effect. My point about RF was that I find puzzling the current protocol. AFAIK If power line communication in Insteon is crippled - RF is not taking over. It should be a huge advantage to use both methods as fail over for each other.

I agree with mwester points. I also think Insteon needs to decouple power-line and RF and make RF as a primary communication protocol. Power-line coms being grandfathered for compatibility or as a backup. Tired of Filter-links clogging outlets.

Re : leak detectors. I'm throwing out all insteon leak detectors. Once few drops of water gets on the detector the boards are fried, contacts rusted etc.. It is a "disposable" one shot detector. They could have coat the PCB's at least. Replacing all with z-Wave Homeseer leak sensors. Z-Wave looks more and more attractive.. with each shot of tequila

Take a look at CAO outdoor tag with K-type thermocouples. http://wirelesstag.net/probe.html Those Omega thermocouples are capable of very high temperatures measurement. Im using one to alert me when my grill reached set temperature. Another is measuring pool water heater output temps. Rock solid with larger batteries.

Thanks for suggestions. I went ahead with making my own control for this heater. Total BOM is about $300. Newark had really good prices on parts. I actually went with larger WD-60 6kW heater and upgraded to 50 Amp SSR. RGC1P48V50ED. . I purchased optional temperature sensor for Qubino and attached it to the SSR heatsink to monitor operating temperatures. Setup to shutdown the control if exceeds 150F. In my tests it stayed at around 90F, Will monitor this for some time. Tested all last night by hooking up to Cook top outlet with spare cord. Initially had trouble with residual voltage from dimmer - SSR would not shutdown completely with 0.24v on controls. Resistor across didn't help. After switching SSR mode (7 to 6) the issue went away. In this mode SSR has a dead band up to 0.5v before starting to conduct. Control is pretty lineal with Qubino control voltage closely related to dimming %. To Do's: All left is to put the panel inside the enclosure, run 10/2 wire and install the heater. Dress up the wiring and label everything. Waiting for 240V LED's to install in enclosure door to show main and load activity. May add extra safe-fail using current transformer and I/O Link. SSR typically fails shorting so I think to have a setup to alert me if current flows without ON signal. Need to program exclusive control of the heater or retractable awning under it. Can't have both:)

It is very relevant topic for me. I'm looking to install one of the Infratech IR heaters on patio. It is their W-40 , 4000W, 240V model. For controls I considered their Home Management single zone unit . It is controlled by 0-10VDC. However it costs more than 2x the cost of the heater itself, over $1600 I want to try to roll out my own control using Qubino 0-10V dimmer and SSR like this model RGC1P48V30ED. under $200. I like that they have a soft start advanced option as it may prolong the life of the heat element. I would place 24V power supply to feed both Qubino and SSR inside the enclosure, placed in the garage. I'm a bit concerned with Banichi's note re residual DC voltage on qubino as need to make sure it shuts heater off completely. Please update on your findings It's been a very long time since I touched any industrial controls. If you guys have any comments, suggestions on my plan please share.

Thanks for the note. I checked and they told me I can do whatever past their curb shutoff valve. Works for me.

Good idea about bypass. I have another shutoff valve already after the meter. I'm adding new valve before the meter, so technically have a backup shutoff. I also only looked at valves with manual override. I'd love to integrate with ISY but UDI Z-wave implementation in current state is not appealing to me. For instance ISY new daughter board is only for beta 5.XX firmware but I don't want to upgrade until it is a stable production version. ISY is not a toy for our home but hard working automation appliance that needs to be rock solid as it is now. Adding the old Z-wave board now is kind of going backwards. For time being I may just try to use IFTTT or other means to link ISY to Smarthings

I'm also looking into water shut-off system. Deciding between Smarthome 70275 and Z-wave Warercop valve (found on Amazon ). Also looked at Dome Z-Wave I have no Z-Wave setup and not eager to start building the whole stack, upgrade just for the valve to work. I thought may be to get Smarthings to get this running if I take this route. I have a number of Insteon leak sensor already in place. Can't find much information on Smarthome valve so may be someone can answer those questions.: Is valve self returning to open? What happens when I/O link relay opens? Read some reviews about issues with bad, leaking NPT threats. Is this still an issue? In general how do you reset the valve to open once leaking condition removed? Through program, manually through interface of manual override at the valve? In general which route would you take in my situation?

I have somfy motorized awning. The old wind sensor was spinner measuring wind speed . It proved to be unreliable. Lately somfy changed it to accelerometer type sensor attached to the front bar. It senses awning flapping on windy condititions and works much better. If you don’t have somfy system I would try to utilize CAO pro sensors with accelerometer. There are lot of information here in forums on how to integrate them with iSY. I use one for detecting when dryer stops

I'm using Global Cache serial interface with URTSII. Controled with network resources. Supports directions and stop. Rock solid for many years controlling multiple shades and awning

Hi Michael, Checking if you heard back from Amazon? Do you mind sharing if this is specific to my setup, network or else. I just have not seen other reports on this forum that feedback does not work.

Just upgraded to V3 I can control my light through voice or in the app. However in Alexa App on iPad when I click on the Light icon to control the device it shows "There was s problem" message in the grey bar on top. It provides no other details. I thought I suppose to see devices status in the app. However they all show as "off". I have "Live Update" enabled in the portal. When I go into specific device screen it shows the last status that was activated in the app. If I turn the light off by voice - app does not update and still shows it as ON Initially brightness slider shows 0 for all devices or scenes regarding of the On/Off status. The light can be at full brightness but slider would be at 0. I can move the slider to 100% with no change in light. If I move the slider lower it controls the brightness.