danu1964

For anyone looking to control their landscape lighting and add dimming capabilities this product works nicely. It connects to the low voltage side of your landscape lighting transformer. You can control the landscape lights with a simple relay board controlled by your ISY or other UD controller. If you don't want to control it directly with your UD controller you have the option of running the scheduling with your irrigation controller. The interface uses 2 wires and is optically isolated which is nice when connecting with different systems. https://www.letzgoproducts.com/landscape-lighting-zone-controller/

There is a possibility the power failure/power up condition you have described may have taken out the off-line switcher IC. Let me know if you need one as I have a few on hand.

You are welcome apostolakisl . I'm glad my work has helped many of you spare the expense of another PLM. Brian H. does a great job of supporting this forum and I thank him for all his replies and help he gives everyone. If nothing else, I hope SmartHome has learned that customers care about quality engineering. The problem was clearly avoidable with a simple design review and reading the application notes for the power supply ICs.

Regarding your substitution I noticed the Panasonic is rated for 1000 hours at temperature and the original one I specified is rated for 5000 hours at temperature. I also noticed the physical size is different and don't know off hand if that one will fit within the footprint. I have some capacitors left as I ordered 10 pcs. If you want we can communicate off forum and I can send you one of these caps so you get this repair done right the first time. You can reach out to me via my company letzgoproducts via a search engine. We should be at the top of google search. Dan Checking to see if the Panasonic I substituted in my cart will be a replacement for the Fujicon there, it's on backorder for a number of weeks at Mouser. 667-EEU-FC1E101S

Hi George, The fact that the LED is flashing is a good indication that the power supply failure has been fixed as I believe the LED runs off the 5V supply. Time to look into the user manual or troubleshooting guide if there is one. Dan

Hi Steven, You will want to order all the capacitors I have listed above from Mouser. I suspect you would receive them quickly as I believe Mouser is in California. You will spend more on shipping than you will the parts. I researched each capacitor to make sure the ESR specifications were as good or better than the original recommendations made by the manufacturer of the switchmode power supply chip. I also made sure to select the longest lifetime capacitors available. Temperature rating doesn't guarantee a low ESR capacitor. Best Wishes!

Awesome! Thanks for reporting back about your success.

I sent you a private message.

If you purchased a 2413S PLM Dual Band you will most likely experience a power supply failure sometime around 2 years of operation. Some have seen it sooner and some later. I think I'm on my third unit now and simply decided to understand what the failure mode was on these units. The failure mode this repair is referring to is exhibited by no communications getting onto the power line and the Green LED is not lit or might be dimly lit. Sometimes unplugging the unit for a day and plugging it back in will allow for operation for a limited amount of time (maybe 30 minutes) and then the problem repeats itself. After tearing down my last unit there wasn't any obvious blown or burnt parts visible on the PCB. I've designed a reasonable number of power supplies in my day and was quite disappointed in seeing a 250Vdc capacitor hanging on the rectifiers straight off the AC line. Keep in mind, this capacitor is the main bulk cap and must handle a normal voltage of around 170Vdc. At first, this would seem ok as there is 80Vdc of headroom left. However, since it is not recommended to plug this unit into a surge protected outlet strip we now see our first potential failure mode. Likewise, the secondary side of the power supply was found to have low quality filter capacitors reported in these forums by BrianH. These appear to be the primary problem resulting in low voltage going into the 5V regulator. So, I decided to just replace all the caps with high quality caps and specifically replaced the high voltage primary side capacitor with one rated for 400V which will have a better chance of surviving surges and spikes generated on the AC line. I was able to purchase all the caps from Mouser. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!! PLEASE DON'T POST ME ASKING FOR STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS, ETC., AS THIS WOULD INDICATE YOU DIDN'T READ THE PREVIOUS SENTENCE. Original Part New Part# Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with EKY-500ETD100ME11D 10uF 50 Volt (2 of these) Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt Mine has been running for two weeks after changing out these caps. Keep in mind that sometimes the capacitor failures could cause other components to fail. In my case all is well. I spent in the neighborhood of $2 for the replacement parts and 3X that for shipping, and a little time at the bench.

I read and agree with everything in your previous posts on the forums. My goal is to simply go through the verification process with a few units to gain confidence that this is the solution. I also replaced the high voltage capacitor on the front end with a high quality capacitor. I don't think this unit will fail again due to bad caps. Of course, I won't have 100% confidence until I run one for 3+ years.

I am looking forward to a high quality PLM from UD as I'm tired of replacing mine every 2 years. Meanwhile, I am looking for someone to donate a dead 2413S PLM (v 1.5). I know there are plenty of bad units. I have figured out how to repair mine as I got tired of paying for a new one every few years. My purpose is to see if the power supply failures in these units is all the same failure mode as I suspect it will be. I ordered a few extra parts when I repaired mine and would like to see if I indeed found the root cause. If the LED still lights on your unit then it probably doesn't have the same failure mode as mine did.