NJ_Mark

Before you place you order take a close look at your current timer, in most setups the heater is shut down via a "fireman switch" which is a small set of low amperage contacts that open a few minutes prior to the timer killing the main power to the pump. This allows the heater to cool down prior to the flow being interupted. This is important to the longevity/warranty of your heater. On my heater that circuit is 110 volt and could be controlled by a switchlink via a program. If you go that route I would still kill the power to the heater by wiring it to the pump relay just to ensure that the heater get shut down in the event of a com failure. Even if you do go the 2 series relay route you will want to set up your programing to kill the heater a few minutes before the pump shuts down.

I have a KPL in my guest bath (6 Button). I have a scene setup on button C called nightlight that turns on the load (a light) at 20%. The local level on the Load Button itself it 100%. If the light is off pressing C will turn on the light at 20%. If the light it on it will dim to 20%. Press the load ON button will either turn the light on full if off, or bring it up to full from 20%. This has worked fine for over a year. Now tonight I hit the load ON button and the light turned on at 20% not 100% as expected. Button C still performs as expected. I checked the ISY and the local on level for the KPL load is still listed at 100%. What's up? I am on version 2.7.10 firmware. I upgraded a week or so ago and this light was functioning fine until tonight. I was able to fix the action of the load button by changing the local on rat to 90% then back to 100%. I'm just trying to figure what happened.

Gary, I assume you know that flood stop make wireless whole house systems. http://www.getfloodstop.com/category_s/5.htm

Gary thanks for thinking of me. I got my parts installed last weekend. I have the flood stop's contact closure wires to an IOLinc. In the event of a leak I am alerted by text and email. I was trying to come up with a simple solution to open/close the valve with the ISY as well. My thought was to use a motion sensor by the washer that when triggered would turn on the valve for 2 hours then close it. That way the valves would be in a normally closed position reducing the chances of a hose failure. However I could not come up with a simple solution. Then my wife came up with an elegant solution, "Why not press the open button when you load the washer, press the close button when you are done with laundry." Sometimes the obvious escapes me. By the way I noticed your location are you in the Lehigh Valley?

I just ordered the same kit with and an i/o-linc. However don't bother to ask smarthome support about the contact closures. I had a couple of IM chats with them about some questions I had and they were quite clueless (thier information contradicted the product manual and the SH website). However an email sent to the manufacturer received a prompt reply that answered all my questions. My plan it to have the i/o linc inform me via email/txt message if the sensor ever trips. The manufacturer also sells whole house kits with wireless remote sensors that will shut off the main if any of the senors trip. I will post with my experiences when the parts arrive.

This is done by Telnet(ing) to the terminal interface, follow links below for details. Connect to shell http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Quick_Start_Guide#Connecting_to_the_ISY_Shell Advanced Config http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Advanced_Configuration_Guide

Bingo! All is right with the ISY again!!

All of a sudden I am having trouble accessing my Admin console. If I navigate to myipaddress/admin the web page portion displays properly and I get a icon on my taskbar for the applet, however the console will not display, there only appears a minimized window which I cannot maximize. It locks up my browser and I have to end the admin console task via the task manager to be able to do anything. I have tried clearing java cache, rebooting isy, rebooting computer, deactivating antivirus, deactivating windows firewall etc. Any help would be appreciated. FYI I am running firmware 2.72 on an isy99

Thanks Rand that is what I was looking for! I realize that this was not ISY related but I appreciate the answer. If anyone has this setup I'm curious about any quirks or problems.

Alright I give up. I swear I saw a post in the past, either in the Forum, or the Wiki, about making 4 button KPL's by cross-linking the middle buttons and using the large button caps spanning 2 buttons. However after many fruitless searches of the Forum and the Wiki I have be unable to locate the post. Can anyone point me in the right direction or did I just dream this up.

The link below leads to and old post on the smarthome forum, where this issue is discussed at length. http://www.smarthome.com/forum/topic.as ... %2Ccontrol[/url]

The ISY has the ability to set the buttons to non-toggle mode. Select the KPL and click Buttons Toggle Mode. See Button_Toggle_Mode. Rand Thanks Sub, however to clarify, I was talking about the virtual buttons of an IRLinc.

I understand, as a followup I assume then that if I set a "button" to non-toggle manually, the ISY will respect that setting and not change it back to full toggle.

I apologize in advance if this is obvious, but is it possible to set an IRLinc "button" to non-toggle mode through the ISY? I realize you can do this by the proper sequence of set button taps on the IRLinc unit but it would be much more convenient to do through the ISY.

I had assumed this, but is that "A" on the timer, or "H"? I don't exactly get it. I would have assumed it is A (like the regular KPL), but A didn't work when I tested it. I don't think linking to H worked either... I know this seems simple, but for some odd reason it isn't... I have the KLP Timer set up in a similar way, the "main" button that can act as a controller is the 2 minute button (assuming you still have the timer in factor configuration). Lets assume you want to have button "c" on the KPL activate the timer for 15 minutes. You would then set button "c" as a controler of the 15 minute button (responder) You would then link the 2 minute button of the timer as a controller of the "c" button (responder) on the KPL. The "c" button will now activate the timer for 15 minutes and the "c" button LED will light up. After 15 min the timer load will turn off (as will the button "c" LED) If you want to have multiple buttons on the remote KPL control various times on the timer the configuration gets a bit more complicated and requires setting up non-toggle on buttons.