The_Penguin

Hi all. I did a search but didn't see anything, but I suspect this has been discussed before. I have an existing setup that works well. Lots of Insteon switches, plugs, leak detectors, and an ISY 994 ver 4.7.3 I recently added 4 switches to 2 3-way lights. The light with the load is connected to one insteon switch, and the other insteon switch is wired so the black traveler wire feeds power to the responder. I set the switch without the load as the controller of the switch with the load, and that switch as a responder. The load wire on the controller switch is disconnected. The controller does activate the responder, and the responder works from ISY, Home Assistant and Alexa. But, if I turn the lights on from the controller, the responder's status does not change on the ISY, and therefore not in Home Assistant either. Is there a workaround for this? I could have the controller run a program on the ISY to turn on the responder, but for maximum WAF, I want the lights to work even if the network or ISY are down, rare but possible. Thanks.

Thanks! I found it, I think it's this one:

I just started playing with Home Assistant yesterday. Pretty impressive. I started with an install in a VM on my Hyper-V server, then decided to load it on a pi for bluetooth presence, and was thinking of linking some unused alarm sensors via the GPIO. I'm wondering, is there's a way to set an ISY variable when HA receives a sensor input? 'course I managed to do something to the config on the pi that put it in a boot loop, and now I can't get to it. Don't have physical access to it until I get home from work Guess I'll find out when I get home.

I'm curious, what are you using for geofencing? I've only recently thought about doing something geofencing, and thought the only options were bluetooth local to the house.

I just lost an outdoor on/off module. The old non dual-band 2456SE. Dead as a doornail. It's been plugged in outside since Jan 2014. I'll post a new thread about the repair, when complete. Looks like 3 bad caps. 6.8uf @ 250v 10uf @ 50v and 100uf @ 25v. I've replaced the 10 and the 100, don't have a 6.8 in stock so it'll have to wait until my next Digikey order. Had to saw it open with a Dremel cutoff wheel, not pretty. Don't think there's a more civilized way to open these.

Oh crap. I can't believe that bit me again. That was it, thanks so much!!!

Thanks for the replies. I have done the manage modules, says they're up to date. I have Firmware 4.5.1 In the Modules order page the Network module says: "Now included with ISY Portal Module (requires Firmware/UI version 4.4.6 or above." If I'm not missing doing something, I'll fire an email off to support. Steve

I just purchased the ISY Portal to use with my Amazon Echo. Wow, really fantastic! But, I was going to start playing with integrating my Hunter Douglas Powerview, and I don't see the Network Module. My understanding (and the verbage on the website to order the ISY Portal seems to claim) is that the Network Module is included with the Portal. Do I have to do something special to install it? Thanks, Steve

Could very well be caps again. I've never checked mine to see how warm it runs. What type of caps did you use? I find when I use a good quality 105 degree rated low ESR cap in my repairs of other devices, they last at least 3 years (actually haven't had any returns in 4 years)

I was surprised that none were bulging, as most devices I've repaired that completely fail to start have at least a few bloaters. I thought about increasing the values, but I figure if it lasted 3 years with crap brand caps, it should do another 6 with good quality replacements I have not seen any recurring failures in the 40+ monitors, and few TVs and printers I've repaired over the last 6 years. You mention C7 and 13 being 100uf in later versions, any corresponding component changes like resistor values that you noticed?

All tests out of circuit: The 100uf@25v measured 92.6uf and .02 ohms ESR 1st 10uf @ 35v 9.06uf 5.7ohms ESR 2nd 10uf@35v 4.3uf 93 ohms ESR The 10uf@16v 8uf 14 ohms ESR. Even if low ESR caps aren't specifically required (I'd think they are here due to the switch-mode PS) that high an ESR indicates failing caps for sure.

Well I've been following this thread since Oct 2014, and just last week my PLM (Purchased Nov 2013) died. For about a year, I'd occasionally lose contact with 1 or 2 devices, but only once had to power reset it. I always figured one day I'd be replacing caps. Sure enough, last week I first noticed that the outside lights didn't come on when the garage door opened. Then while working in the garage I noticed I didn't get a text when the door had been open more than 6 minutes. Logged in the the ISY, and no devices found, but could query the PLM info. Power cycled the PLM and nothing. Not even an LED blink. Finally got a chance to repair it today. Left the 450v cap alone as in my experience with a metric boatload of LCD monitor repairs, they almost never fail. Replaced 4 or 5 caps on the main pcb with Panasonic FM series that I had in stock. I left the interface daughterboard alone. Most of the 10uf caps measured low in capacitance and quite high in ESR. I didn't take notes, but will go back down to the bench later and record the info. Re-assembled, and it's working fine.

The Echo look like a very well-done device, but not sure of it's value if you already have an Android or iDevice, as it seems to be mostly "Siri in a box" That said, of it could be a voice controller for ISY, I'd change my tune in a heartbeat. That would be very cool.

Just found this thread, good to know that it's a common (in the consumer elctronics industry) failure mode. Having repaired about 50 LCD monitors, several TVs and assorted computer equipment I have a ziplock bag with several hundred bad caps. I may do a pre-emptive recap on my PLM just to be safe. Since I do so many, I order caps in decent enough quantity to justify Digikey's $8.00 flat rate overnight shipping (to Canada) so I likely have the parts in stock. Haven't looked at my PLM, is it a switch-mode supply? If so I would not recommend Mouser caps, but go with known good quality high ESR 105 degree caps like Panasonic FM or FC series. These are my go-to brand for all of my repairs and have served me well for years.

A good Canadian source is aartech.ca, not as cheap as the Costco deal, but reasonable shipping from ON.