smokegrub

Before I order these I need to know if they will work in an outlet which has only two wires.

Poor research on my part. Thanks, Stu. I placed a dual band plug-in about 10-12 feet from the 2-wire and all is well. I will add these details to my device notes.

I will install a plug-in dual band device nearby and see what happens.

I have another of these devices and it linked easily. This one is located within 1 foot of a ToggleLinc which linked first try. I have tried air-gapping the device-didn't link. I then did a factory reset. After the factory reset the device linked but then dropped its connection with the red exclamation point. I have since tried to factory reset the device but it will not reset. I get one short beep and the bottom light on the device turns green but it never produces the long beep. The switch controls the incandescent light but will not link. I think I have a defective device. Thoughts/suggestions?

Stu: Your instructions were spot on. The contractor completed the installation. I set up the programming and all is well. No more pulling chains! My sincere thanks.

Stu: I passed your note along to my contractor and got this as his reply: I had an appointment for a checkup earlier today and in my distracted state of mind misunderstood what the guy was saying. My previous response needs to be amended. Here’s my previous response: Hi Donnie, The standard is to break the hot line through the switch, not the ground. It may be wired through the ground here but that seldom is the case. The switch will break the circuit either way and will work the light/fan but breaking the ground leg leaves power at the outer edge of a light socket rather than the little button at the bottom of the socket and will be hot even with the switch turned off. We can test it without removing the fan by finding another ground and checking for current at the switch. Frank What I said is correct but like most of the questions in the debate Wednesday, I didn’t really answer the question. He’s correct in saying that the white line in the switch box is the line side and the black is the load. The white wire of the switch leg is connected to the black wire in the ceiling box so that the hot line is broken in the switch and returns to the box on the black (switch leg)wire which is connected to the fan/light black wires. I’m still a little baffled by a change needing to occur at the fixture. I think that the wiring at the fan is correct but I can check the wiring at the switch to make sure. If a 3rd wire is necessary (I think that it is) I think that we can run a white neutral wire from anywhere in the electrical system (we don’t have to get it from the ceiling box, it can come from anything attached to the ground bar in the panel box- we can test this by running a wire neutral from any outlet temporarily to the KPL) to the switch box and then use the new white to tie to the white KPL, original white in the box to tie to the black on the KPL and the black to the load side(red wire).This makes a situation that keeps power at the KPL all the time. Getting a new wire to the box may be tough but doable. ​Do we have a misunderstanding here? How do I straighten it out?

Are you saying we need to pull another wire, a neutral, to the box where the KPL will be located? What about the FanLinc given the fact that it is linked and performing as wired? Pardon my ignorance on these matters.

Stu, that is what I have. We have been trying to install an 8-button KPL to control the light/fan but so far we have been unable to get the device to link. Also, if the KPL is installed we get no power to the FanLinc. There are only 2 wires at the KPL.

A contractor is hooking up a FanLinc for me at an away location. I linked it successfully but the only nodes I see are Fan (OFF/ON) and Motor (Slider Bar Control wi. No Nodes). He will be wiring in a KPL for control but I am puzzled as to why I am not seeing nodes now.

Larry: Thanks for your help.

I changed the program to trigger if the KPL button (Toggle On/Off) was 100% and it runs perfectly. Don't know why and don't particularly care, it works. From my perspective though this is weird behavior.

I tried the program above with buttons set to non-toggle off and all toggle. Neither enabled the program. I am going to erase both programs and rewrite them. Will report back later.

I switched both buttons to non-toggle off and the second program is still disabled.

Both buttons are in Toggle Mode.

Sorry, but I don't understand "What are your trigger KPLs set up as?".

The problem is not the disablement step, the program never enables. If something apparent doesn't get revealed here at the forum, I am going to erase both programs and rewrite them from scratch.

I have a program that is currently giving me problems. The Security Program is designed to enable a second program that sends notifications with door openings. My problem is that the Security program is not enabling the Chesapeake Door Open program when either of the KPL buttons are pressed. I obviously am doing something stupid because this conceptual approach has worked flawlessly in the past. The second program works fine when manually enabled so the problem is with the first program. Any help will be appreciated. Security - [iD 0011][Parent 001C] If Control 'KPLs / Kitchen KPL / Kitchen KPL D (Door Sensors)' is switched On Or Control 'KPLs / Deck KPL / Deck KPL D (Door Sensors)' is switched On Then Enable Program 'Chesapeake Door Open (Disabled)' Else Disable Program 'Chesapeake Door Open (Disabled)' Chesapeake Door Open (Disabled) - [iD 0012][Parent 001C][Not Enabled] If Control 'Sensors (Door) / Front Door Sensor-Opened' is switched On Or Control 'Sensors (Door) / Deck Door Sensor' is switched On Or Control 'Sensors (Door) / Garage Side Door Sensor' is switched On Or Control 'Sensors (Door) / Kitchen Door Sensor' is switched On Or Control 'Sensors (Door) / Man Cave Door Sensor' is switched On Then Send Notification to 'Donnie Wheeler' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The status is disabled until either the Deck or Kitchen KPL D is On.

Thanks, Dennis and all.

Thanks, all. That answered my question. Can't be done. No problem

I entered a name for the local IPs and they are readily identifiable in the ISY finder. However, the away IPs have no apparent means of similarly identifying them. I have to use my recollection of the away IPs. Not a serious problem, but it would make things easier if the away IP could be made to appear in the ISY Finder as ISY Name-Away IP

By control clicking on ISY in the device tree I can rename the ISY to ISY-Name. That ISY-Name will then appear in the Admin Console along with the local IP. I would like to do the same with the away IP but have been unable to identify a way to do so.

When I am "away" from one of the locations and access the ISY I use its away IP. That means I have two such IPs in the Console. I have been unable to name them for identification purposes as I have the local IP. I am simply trying to find out if that is easily possible as it is for the local IPs.

The two ISYs are located in homes separated by more than 300 miles. Both have port forwarding enabled and both are set up correctly. It just takes me an inordinate amount of time and research to do those networking tasks. Sadly, I forget what I did shortly thereafter. I have started writing down what I did in the hope that if I have to do it again it will be less painful!

Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I have only had to update with a changed IP once in perhaps 5 years with one of two ISPs. I have briefly looked into DNS but have decided to leave things as they are. My weakest skill involves networking. Each and every time I have to set up something such as an Insteon camera and notification by email of motion I have to basically reverse engineer what I have done with a similar device. From my perspective this is where Apple, Smarthome and many others have failed to meet the needs of their customers in a simple plug and play fashion. Port forwarding is a great example of a name that totally fails to describe what you are doing and why. I suspect I need a networking for dummies resource but I doubt that would be adequate for me. : ) My thanks to you and others at this forum who have so generously helped me though these quagmires.