fmk2

Never mind... I found the post on the official release of the eisy-ui. I'm able to log in using the info in that post. Frank --- I see the [LIB_ERRORS-403] error when I try to log into the Admin console. I found the sticky post about installing eisy-ui via ssh to resolve that error, but I can't find the instructions for connecting to the eisy via ssh. I tried to ssh into it using the IP address and my admin credentials, but I get this error: LIBSSH2 returned LIBSSH2_ERROR_KEX_FAILURE. What do I need to do to be able to ssh into the eisy? Thanks, Frank

Thanks very much for the quick solution... that did the trick.

I just installed a Vue and got it connected to my utility provider (PG&E). I can see in the Vue app that it's working fine. I then installed the Vue Node Server on the eisy, but I'm seeing the same "file not found" errors repeatedly. I've attached a file with the errors that I'm seeing, but it appears that the problem is that the "boto3" module is not found. Has anyone else seen this and found a fix? VueNode_FileNotFoundErrors.txt

Never mind... I decided to just go for it. I've been able to add one of the Z-Wave switches (enbrighten ZW3010) successfully after doing a factory reset on it. It seems to be working. Frank

I've migrated my ISY to the eISY, and all my Insteon units are working well. I now want to add a couple Z-Wave switches that I formerly controlled with a Hubitat via a Polyglot unit. So I purchased the Z-Matter USB option, and have plugged it into the eISY. I can see the "Z-Wave" menu drop-down in the AD, but I want to know if there's anything I need to do before adding Z-Wave devices. For example, on the Configuration->System tab, I have "Z-Wave Support" checked. But I also see a button labeled "Migrate to ZMatter Z-Wave". Since I wasn't using the ISY's internal Z-Wave, I assume I don't need to click that button because I have no existing Z-Wave devices to migrate, but is that a correct assumption? In short, my question is: What are the steps to take after plugging in a ZMatter USB and before adding Z-Wave devices? The lack of documentation on this is really frustrating, by the way. There really should be some installation instructions included with the unit, or at least a QR code link to online documentation. Maybe just plugging it in and clicking the "Z-Wave Support" checkbox is all there is to it, but there's no way to know that because it's not documented anywhere.

Thanks for the reply. I did still have a couple programs related to the Zigbee power management enabled. I also had a couple programs related to weather alerts that relied on the Ambient Weather node but they were based on the PG2 version of the node. (I haven't enabled PG3 yet.) Neither the power management or weather programs were running, but I deleted all of them since I'll need to recreate them once I get PG3 up anyway. I then waited about 15 minutes to make sure they were truly deleted before trying to run UD Mobile on the iPhone. No luck. When I look in AC, I don't see any programs currently running so I don't think that's an issue at this point. I'll open a ticket.

I've migrated my configuration from the ISY to the eISY, migrated the portal, and things appear to be generally working. I can control Insteon devices in Mobilinc on my iPhone, however I can no longer get UD Mobile to run on the iPhone at all. When I click on it, I see a brief flash of the app, and then it disappears. If I look at what apps are running in the background on the phone, UD Mobile is there, but selecting it doesn't work. Any suggestions? Did I perhaps miss a step in the migration from the ISY somewhere? Thanks.

I prefer an option where updates get pushed to the device and I'm notified that they're available, but don't get activated until I say so. That way I can make sure they are implemented when I'm around to monitor the result. That said, I'm probably OK with being nagged (via recurring emails, maybe?) if an update doesn't get activated in my system for some prolonged period of time. But of course then you have to define "prolonged period of time"...

Excellent! Thanks very much. Regards, Frank

I was able to successfully install the Hubitat node server on my Pi-based Polisy about 6 months ago, and it has worked well. However, a power outage on the Pi trashed the SD card, so I had to rebuild the Polisy. I have the rebuilt Polisy running, but I still see the old Hubitat (and other) Node Servers that were installed previously. They aren't connected of course, and the Dashboard view of them just shows a single button at the bottom labeled "No Details Available" (example image attached). How do I remove these? Do I need to delete them in the Admin Console on the ISY?

Well, I don't know how, but when I went into my account on the App Store and scrolled down to UD Mobile, it showed that it had updated to 0.6.5. When I opened the app directly earlier it was still version 0.5.8. To verify, I re-opened the app from within the App Store (clicked the "Open" button), and sure enough it is now version 0.6.5. Very strange. Thanks for the quick response.

I haven't had time to test the app lately, so I'm still on the original version I installed, Beta 0.5.8. How do I update to the latest version? I don't see anything in the app that lets me do that, and the iOS app store doesn't show an update available.

As you suspected, this was a connectivity issue. For some reason, the ISY had fallen off the network. I wasn't near a PC when I sent my earlier message, so couldn't try logging into the Admin screen. Once I tried accessing the ISY from my desktop using Launcher, I found I got no response from it. A quick reboot of the ISY fixed it. Sorry for the confusion. Frank

Thanks for all your work on the app, Javi I did make progress. Renaming the backup file did work, and I was able to get the config from my iPhone over to the iPad, including Favorites. But before I even tried that, I started seeing a new error every time I change screens in UD Mobile. I see the error on both the iPad and iPhone. This just started today. It appears to be some sort of html error, but I don’t see the whole message and don’t know where I might find a log that would have it. I did grab a screenshot of the error. It’s attached. Frank

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when I backup my UD Mobile app on my iPhone to iCloud, pull a copy of the file from iCloud down to my iPad and then try to Restore on the iPad, it doesn't work. I still see the same Favorites that the iPad already had on it, and the additional ones from the iPhone aren't there. I expected everything on the iPad to be replaced with whatever was on the iPhone. Did I miss a step or something? Or does this process not work between iPhones and iPads? Thanks, Frank

I've just started playing with UD Mobile for iOS, and I like it a lot. I'm still in the process of setting up Favorites, etc., but it's all fairly intuitive. I do already have one feature request though. Is there any plan to enable the transfer of Favorites between devices? For example, I have both an iPhone and an iPad, and would love to be able to create a Favorite on one and then be able to export it to the other. Setting Favorites isn't all that difficult, but I'm fundamentally lazy. Thanks, Frank

If anyone on this list has one of the post-January 2017 units, please crack that puppy open and let us know what's different. As a minimum, it would be nice to know what values they used for the capacitors we've all had to replace (C3, C7, C8, C11 and C13).

Never mind... The excessive heat really nagged at me, so I decided to do one more check of the connections on the main board to see if I could find the cause. Sure enough, there was the tiniest solder bridge -- a fraction of a hair's width -- across C8... which of course shorted the output of the 5V regulator. Ugh. I cleaned up that bridge, and the unit fired right up. I've been building and working on electronics since I built my first Heathkit in the late 70's so you'd think I could avoid something as simple as a solder bridge by now, but apparently not. I blame my aging eyes for not catching it sooner: I didn't need bright lighting and high powered magnifiers to see such things in those days! Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread, and especially to those that responded when I ran into what turned out to be self-inflicted problems.

Thanks for the quick reply. I did those voltage checks on the main board without the daughter board installed, but I had checked the daughter board's regulator earlier -- before finding you schematic and voltage measurements. It appears to be working as expected. Depending on how the 5V regulator on the main board failed, it could be responsible for the excessive heat. I'll see if I can find a replacement for it... hopefully that's what is needed.

It looks like the switcher is ok. I can see a bit over 21V across C13, which -- according to the post by Breezyken in post 282 -- is about right. But there's no voltage coming out of the 5V regulator, so it is likely toast. I've also noticed that the unit gets quite hot in the area of the switcher IC. I know it's having to dissipate power to get the voltage down to 21V, but it's hotter than I would have expected. Is that normal, or is that possibly an indication that I have more than one issue to deal with?

Followed the instructions on this thread to replace the capacitors in my 2413S today, but no joy. The LED doesn't light up at all. I now suspect that there was more than just a power supply failure. If it is indeed a catastrophic failure, it's probably the result of our latest power failure. A nearby transformer failed and took out all the power for several blocks, but the worst part came when they turned the power back on; it didn't immediately come up to 117V, but instead ramped up slowly. That can be very hard on electronics, not to mention things like refrigerators and freezers. Fortunately, the 2413S appears to be the only thing in the house that failed. I'll poke around a bit to see if I can verify that the 5V regulator is working, but beyond that I'm not sure what I can do without a schematic as a reference. It may be time for a new unit. (sigh)

I use Alexa to control fans, but I kind of cheat. I set the spoken name such that there's a separate number for each speed. For example, "Alexa, turn Living Room Fan One On" (sets the living room fan to Low speed), or, "Alexa, turn Master Fan Two On" (sets the master bedroom fan to Medium speed). Saying "Alexa, turn Living Room Fan Zero On" will turn the living room fan off. Not very elegant, but it works. Frank

I figured it out... Two of my 4 Fan Speed scenes had a setup problem. If you clicked on the name of the scene, it showed all the responder levels to be correctly set (0). But if you clicked on the controller switch within that scene, the responder levels showed a setting of 100! I'm not sure how/why that could happen, but setting the responders to 0 at the switch fixed the problem. Thanks for the help, all. Frank

I'm sure this question must have been answered before, but I've searched the forum and can't find it -- maybe I'm just not using the right search terms -- so if anyone can help, I would appreciate it. I just installed a new 2486D 5-button KPL with a Fanlinc. This is the second one I've installed, and the first one works perfectly. This one works fine too in that the top and bottom switches control the fan light and switches A - D control the fan speed (usual configuration; A = medium, B = High, C = Low, D = Off). But I can't get the LED backlights of switches A - D to work independently. When I push any of the A - D buttons, the LED backlight for all 4 switches toggles. They are always all on or all off, regardless of the state of the fan. I have created the scenes necessary to control the fan with the switch. The scenes I created match my other fanlinc and 2486D exactly. Likewise, the Button Toggle Mode matches my other switch. What am I missing? Frank

Wow, Teken, you are definitely up to speed on all the latest and greatest with home insulation. Thanks for the info! I've never heard of the PCM material before, but we did use QuietRock sound deadening drywall on interior walls (between the living area and the master bedroom, for example) when we did our remodel. I have QuietRock drywall in my music studio / ham shack as well... it reduces sound well enough that I can practice without driving the wife or the neighbors crazy. I am familiar with the blown-in cellulose for outside walls. Haven't heard of using it on inside walls, but that makes sense. There's one installer in the area that I know of that uses the cellulose insulation... I guess I'll start by giving them a call. I've been a ham for over 40 years. It's pretty much my second favorite hobby (playing music being the first, and then there's a long list after ham radio). The Icom radios are great -- I'm a big fan. In fact, I'm listening to a couple Australians chatting back and forth on my Icom IC-7600 right now (I'm in California and it's 12:30 AM). The new IC-7300 is a really slick radio, too -- it utilizes a Software Defined Receiver (SDR), which is basically the state of the art in receiver design, and it's not very expensive. I got to play with one on Field Day a few weeks ago (if you don't know what Field Day is, just Google ARRL Field Day... it'll pop right up). It was impressive. Good luck on getting your ticket. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with it. Let me know when you get it and maybe we can set up a "sked", as they say, to chat on the air. And thanks again for the details on the insulation options. Frank