hart2hart

I brought about 6 back to life with capacitor replacement. I’ve still got many switches and dimmers installed from 16 years ago that are single band so accees points keep device communications at high reliability. I bought several dual band replacements during a smarthome 40 or 50% off sale before they closed. I install them as devices go bad but I’m guessing 70-85% are still original.

I was going to give same advice. Keep in mind you can only replace switch with switch and dimmer with dimmer.

MobileLinc is third party app. The initial version was loved by everyone even got screen time in maybe a Verizon commercial. The developer Wes upgraded it to Moblinc X ( I think) and it moved to a cloud model with subscription pricing. The blow back here was instant. No one wanted cloud failure point. I believe MobiLinc pro was launched in reaction to keep control local but damage was done. I’ve still got original MobiLinc on my phone but never use it — NOT just looked UD Mobile is my go to and it does a great job for me. I’d suggest you install and try it out. If good for you, you can consider dropping MobiLinc. BTW Wes was a great resource and developer. I don’t recall seeing here in forum for a bit.

The way a folder is disabled is by placing an IF condition on it like if 1 = 2. You add the If just like you do when a program is selected but instead a folder is selected. I've seen several mention putting IF time conditions to say the contained programs only execute say from Sunset to Sunrise but their individual If conditions are also applied.

I do have old programs for reference in folders marked disabled. They do not trigger unless you have a forgotten program that executes one of them but same for a disabled program. In effect all programs have an extra if to say if my folder is enabled and..,

If I understand your needs, Create the variable Poll_running as an integer type and add it to the If. They do not cause a program to trigger like state type.

Thanks. High Insteon traffic including collisions is an issue. The devices and the protocols are not sophisticated enough and maybe can’t be based on the backbone it travels including the electrical wire where it communicates at the zero crossing points. You could look at event viewer after that scene command is issued and likely see the high traffic and when it stops. I always add 1 or 2 second waits between critical device updates. Of course no way to easily account for other programs running at the same time.

If it’s like other case a reboot will fix it as it’s a bug.

LOL no argument here. I’m gonna start using the term RI.

If Control will trigger even if the device is already in that state so if a switch is on and you tap on at switch it will trigger. If Status only triggers if the device state changes from some other state so if it’s on and you tell it on again it will not trigger.

FWIW This is what AI said: Yes, you can set the LED backlight level on an Insteon wall switch, but the exact steps depend on whether it’s a SwitchLinc‑style paddle/dimmer or an Insteon keypad.[1][3] ### For Insteon SwitchLinc (paddle/dimmer) On most Insteon SwitchLincs (toggle, paddle, or rocker‑style), the LED backlight defaults to about 50% brightness and is adjustable via the device itself:[3][1] 1. Enter LED‑adjust mode - Press and hold the Set button about 3 seconds until it beeps and the LED starts blinking.[1][3] 2. Adjust brightness - Use the On/Off (or top/bottom) paddle to brighten or dim the backlight to your desired level.[3][1] 3. Save - Tap the Set button once; the unit will double‑beep and exit, saving the new LED level.[1] ### For Insteon Keypad (6‑ or 8‑button) KeypadLinc LEDs can be set to any of 32 brightness levels from the device:[2][3] - 6‑button layout: - Simultaneously tap A and D to start adjustment. - Use On/Off to brighten/dim, then tap A and D again to save.[2] - 8‑button layout / i3 Keypads: - Either tap C & F (or predefined buttons) to enter adjust mode, then hold On to brighten/dim. - Tap C & F again (or the designated save button pair) to store the level.[2][3] ### If you use a hub or ISY / Home Assistant Some hubs (e.g., ISY‑series, Home Assistant with Insteon integration) expose a “backlight” or “LED brightness” slider; you can set the level there instead of via the physical buttons, then “write changes” to the device.[4][6][3] If you tell me the exact Insteon model (for example “2477D paddle switch” or “2334‑2xx Keypad”), I can give you the precise button‑sequence for that unit.

Curious, when you said updating manually earlier in the thread, did you mean manually at the switch or from eisy console? Based on what you just posted, it does appear there might be an issue on eisy that @IndyMike csn help you understand Also, I asked AI a different way and it said updates were minimum of 100,000 writes which I used to update my prior post.

Did a quick bit of AI and the storage used for those settings is typically rated at 1.000 to 10,000 update cycles so at twice a day that would be 1.4 years to 10x that time. I’m careful with AI but maybe not enough this time. Went deeper and got this: “Insteon switches use EEPROM memory (often SST39VF040 or similar) for settings, with a guaranteed endurance of 100,000 write/erase cycles per sector. Actual lifespan often exceeds this minimum in practice, as noted in general EEPROM discussions, though exact chip specs for all models aren’t always public.”

Hope I’m recalling this correctly but some have mentioned that the memory where those settings are stored has a limited life of updates. Your doing it manually supports this as a possible cause if by manually you mean at the switch.

If your main home has many more devices, you might try increasing the memory Java can use. I use 1024 Open Control Panel. 2. Open Java. 3. Go to the Java tab. 4. Click View under Java Applet Runtime Settings. 5. Select the JRE version your browser uses. 6. In Runtime Parameters, enter something like  -Xmx512m . 7. Click OK and restart all browser windows.[xzbackup +1] Important notes •  -Xmx  sets the maximum heap size; for example,  -Xmx1024m  means 1 GB.[reddit +1]

As I recall the out of memory on a program is misleading. It typically meant a device or variable that was used in the program has been deleted.

Yes, create a scene and add them to it. Be careful to indicate controller or responder. Also, you can tell it to erase old links. A small flat head screen driver makes pulling the tab very simple without fear of breakage.

There has been a minor update auto pushed. Don’t recall which version but I believe the version you’re upgrading from and to may require UD assistance. I’d enter a ticket to get directions.

I feel I’m missing something but how about putting the device in its own scene and then using adjust scene to make changes?

There is a setting in user preferences to open to favorites.

Reboot.

Not better just different… I backup text copies of all programs using Copy Folder to Clipboard. With resulting file I will use a text editor for find to review and research issues.

If sensor is off/on (whichever means not full) Wait 10 minutes Set micro relay on that turns on pump Else Set micro relay off that controls pump

I didn’t read all of the background but I’d guess he meant restore the backup that you made prior to the upgrade.

The scenes per button were a little daunting to setup but they’ve been flawless for me. The plus for me is it’s there and doesn’t need a controller to work so if eISY happens to be offline or you get line noise etc it still functions.