Wingsy

Thanks Michel. I've just recently found a way to recover from my evil ways. I connected the old router and managed to get access to the ISY, where I changed the setting from having a fixed IP (which was a lousy idea...don't know why I did that) to DHCP. Hooked up my new router again and I'm good.

A few weeks ago I replaced the PLM due to a lightning hit. Got most everything up & running ok. Bringing up the Admin Console wasn't an issue. But since the last time I had the console running I have replaced my router with a Netgear Nighthawk, and an ethernet switch (also Netgear) and my ISP DSL modem. The modem also changed my internet connection method, from PPPoE to DHCP. And now when I try to run the console it gives me a small window with a title of: ISY Finder - Not Found. I've tried eliminating the ethernet switch by connecting one of the router's ethernet outputs directly to the ISY (and another ethernet output to my computer). No change. Any ideas?

House hit by lightning, knocked out PLM. I've got over 90 Insteon switches & things throughout the house but I think all of these somehow survived, including my ISY994i. 3 TVs, 3 Sat receivers, 2 computers, etc., all dead. Now I'm getting around to replacing the PLM and restoring the universe to its previous self. I reset the ISY while the new PLM is connected, then chose "Restore Modem". I get a screen telling me to put my battery devices in programming mode prior to continuing. This is a problem. I have 4 motion sensors that require a ladder to get to and 3 ON/OFF sensors that also require a ladder. These devices only stay in programming mode for around 3 minutes and that's not near enough time for me to set them all up. Question is, can I proceed without these devices in prog mode, then come back after the rest of the system is done and set each one up individually? If so....how? Appreciate any help you can offer.

I thought you were talking about Momentary B where the relay responds to both an ON and an OFF. In Momentary C where the relay is triggered based on the state of the Sense input: I'm showing where an OFF command from the ISY always turns the relay OFF regardless of the state of the Sense input (--), and likewise an ON command always turns it ON regardless of Sense state. A linked controller does trigger the relay based on Sense input (like the manual says) but an ISY doesn't. Is that what we're talking about?

I don't understand. Isn't the highlighted areas showing it? The note says the ISY "OFF" command doesn't ever trigger an IOLinc. An ON command does. The ISY can't trigger based on Sense input, it always triggers when the ISY sends an ON, and turns off the relay when it sends an OFF. It seems this is always the case no matter what mode the IOLinc is in.

It is possible, and here is how I did it. Sunset Program - [ID 0013][Parent 0001] If Time is Sunset + 25 minutes Then Set Scene 'Outside Lights Dim' On Set 'FR Pool Table Lights' 30% In Scene 'MBR Bath Lights' Set 'MBR Bath Lights' 30% (On Level) In Scene 'MBR Recessed Lights' Set 'MBR Recessed Lights' 30% (On Level) $IsDayTime = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The line you're interested in is the "In Scene.." lines. Those scenes are real simple - the switch is set to controller and the switch is set as responder as well. The sunrise program is: Sunrise Program - [ID 0012][Parent 0001] If Time is Sunrise - 15 minutes Then Set Scene 'Outside Lights Dim' Off In Scene 'MBR Bath Lights' Set 'MBR Bath Lights' 100% (On Level) In Scene 'MBR Recessed Lights' Set 'MBR Recessed Lights' 100% (On Level) $IsDayTime = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Here's a screenshot of the bathroom lights, if that will help.

And when someone with those lights is behind you it appears that they are constantly flashing their lights at you as they hit minor bumps in the road.

Mustang, I did that too! When I was 16 or 17 I put a landing light from an old Piedmont Airlines F-27 in the front of my car, and for the same reason you did. My car looked like an oncoming train when I had that light on. But from that moment on, I never met anyone who didn't dim when I flashed my regular headlights, so never got to really try them out. Traded cars soon after that and had to remove them. I feel like you'd be a candidate for buying my 2-million-candlepower house when I sell.

That would be the ideal solution in all cases except where you needed fast response. Using just a program in the ISY is how I initially set up my stairway lights, but soon discovered that sometimes the lights didn't come on until seconds after being triggered. Not good if there's something on the 2nd step. Same for my driveway lights, triggered by a buried coil. Sometimes they didn't come on until 1/3 the way down the driveway.

OK, I've modified the pdf to include a linked controller. Michel - let's wait a few days before you link the pdf and see if anyone has any corrections or suggestions. Stepping back and looking at the combinations it's no wonder there are so many people confused over the IOLinc (me included). IOLinc Options Matrix.pdf

Well, no. Not yet anyway. If you want to do that, let me expand it to include a linked controller and correct the result that I mentioned earlier, from OFF to UNCHANGED. Without the full post no one would know that that item is a bit off and I'd hate to be the source of even a tiny piece of misinformation.

Here's something I think you guys might like. If you're a girl you'll just probably ask "Why?". Guys know why. I have a friend who owns a tower company. At about the time I was building my house he was replacing the strobe lights on many of his towers and gave me a couple of the older models. For normal lighting I put a circular LED in the base of the lights and mounted them on top of my driveway columns. Works well. The strobe was still functional and I left it that way. And sometimes at night when I'm feeling a little crazy I'll fire them up. As you may know, tower strobes focus the light into a horizontal circular beam. When you're close to one of these on a tower, the main beam goes right over your head. When it's 7 feet off the ground and you're 50 feet away, those two 2-million-candlepower strobes hit you like a supernova. It'll burn the outline of the trees right into your retina. You should see it. When I sell I'll have to find someone as eccentric as I am. I justified this by saying that I'll hook it up to my burglar alarm and if it doesn't scare away the crooks at least they'll be there blinded when the police arrive. The strobes are hooked up to an Insteon switch but after a couple of ALL-ON events I unplugged the strobe part. When I do a demo I have to plug it in first. Oh well.

With few exceptions I had my house wired so any dimmer could be replaced with a standard switch, with traveler wires where needed. I do have keypads at every entrance (whose main switch controls the room lighting) but I also have separate dimmer switches right beside them that control the porch lights, ceiling fan and some floodlights. The keypads do things like all floodlights on, set room lights to dim, turn on driveway lights, and turn on dining room lights. The dinning room (actually a corner of the great room) is the kicker there - there is no physical switch for it; it's on a nearby keypad that controls an inline dimmer. Those lights were added after the house was finished. Another inline fanlinc, not controlled by any switch (yet - I'm using my iPhone at present), runs the fans on the back porch. Another inline dimmer controls the lights on the columns at the end of the driveway (switch located IN the column), and finally an inline dimmer that controls a single light at the outside foyer (it's linked to the front porch lights). It would be a simple matter to revert all that (except dinning room and fans) to standard switches. If I had to run any additional wiring inside the outside walls, I think I'm screwed - it's a log home and the outside walls already have all the wiring they'll ever get. My automatic stairway and driveway lights (and driveway chime) may also be a problem. The future owners would have to revert to a manual switch. That may soon change though. I'm working on a way to automatically control those lights without needing ISY or Insteon (but I would need something ELSE, like a time delay relay. But surely any electrician could repair that if it ever failed). It sometimes worries me that in 10 years I may not be able to buy an Insteon wall dimmer, or another ISY, or another PLM.

Chances are really good that if I sold my house the buyer won't have a clue about how to keep all these Insteon things ticking. I guess I'll tell them that if there's a problem (no, "when" there is a problem) they can try to find an electrician with experience in this stuff or to just yank out the problem devices and go back to ole timey switches. What will you do?

Not to hijack this thread but I think my question may also help mvgossman.... My sunset program is: If Time is Sunset + 25 minutes Then Set Scene 'Outside Lights Dim' On Set 'FR Pool Table Lights' 30% In Scene 'MBR Bath Lights' Set 'MBR Bath Lights' 30% (On Level) In Scene 'MBR Recessed Lights' Set 'MBR Recessed Lights' 30% (On Level) $IsDayTime = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') My Adjust Scene statements are to set the level of brightness low during the night when those lights are turned on manually. Another similar program runs at sunrise to allow them to go to 100% when turned on. Is this the best way to do this?