fahrvergnuugen

Only the power LED lights. Nothing else lights or blinks

Both network LEDs light up. The link light stays on and the activity light blinks. However with the micro SD card removed, the red error light doesn't turn on and neither do the Tx/Rx lights. On the other ISY I have the error light turns red when no SD card is inserted. A bit perplexing.

Understood. I put the SD card in a card reader and can read the directory structure. I also was able to make a full disk image back up of it. I swapped the card into the other ISY. It booted up with the wrong IP address, but all of my programs and devices are listed. I changed the IP and rebooted again and everything seems to be working. Time to get the scope out and see if I can figure out whats wrong with my original unit.

Right, but as stated in the original post - I don't have a backup.

My ISY944i stopped working after a power failure. I tried two different 5v 1A power supplies as I know this is a common failure, but the ISY is not pingable and none of my programs are reacting to insteon traffic. When I power it on, the power light is lit as well as the link light on the switch, but no RX/TX and my network management software doesn't see the mac address as being connected. If I power it on with the SD card removed, the error light doesn't turn on either. I have another ISY944i that someone gave me when they switched to Zwave. Can I swap the SD card over? Or is it only possible to recover from a backup (which I do not have)?

Both of my motion sensors simultaneously started doing this - they go from On -> wait to time out -> Off -> a few seconds -> On -> repeat. They are stuck in a loop somehow, but I can't figure out why. I tried swapping batteries but that didn't fix it. Here's how they are configured: Here's the log from one of them:

The EZIO2x4 seems like a really nice unit, but its quite overkill (and therefore expensive) for what I'm doing. FWIW, I'm trying to toggle an Arduino input pin to know that I toggled an Insteon light switch in order to turn on some WS2812 LEDs. What about this ZWave MIMOLite? Could I integrate an insteon switch with the MIMO using the ISY?

I'm finding that I/O Lincs are dreadfully unreliable. I have 5 I/O Lincs and I am constantly having either communication issues or relay issues (communication works fine, but the relay doesn't trip or it trips and doesn't hold). Is this common? Do these relays simply wear out? Are there any alternatives? Any DIY/Arduino based solutions that you know of? I really wish they would make a dual band I/O Linc with a solid state relay...

Thanks for the explanation guys. It makes sense why the ISY can't do it. It doesn't make sense why Insteon chose to leave this out of their protocol Happy New Year!

I have an 8 button KeypadLinc and I'm trying to control the LEDs behind buttons B through H. 3D 7C 5B 1 is the address of button "A" Thus http://10.0.1.201/rest/nodes/3D%207C%205B%201/cmd/DON turns the load on and consequently the LED behind button "A". 3D 7C 5B 5 is the address of button "E" http://10.0.1.201/rest/nodes/3D%207C%205B%205/cmd/DON gives an error (to be expected I suppose since there is no load attached to button "E". Then I noticed in the REST API documentation that you can set properties, so I though I would try setting the ST property to ON or value 255. http://10.0.1.201/rest/nodes/3D%207C%205B%205/set/ST/255results in a 200 (success) but the LED doesn't turn on. Am I missing something? Is there any way to control the button LEDs from the API? FWIW here is the XML for my keypad button E: <nodeInfo> <node flag="0"> <address>3D 7C 5B 5</address> <name>Kitchen KeypadE</name> <parent type="3">44227</parent> <type>1.65.69.0</type> <enabled>true</enabled> <deviceClass>0</deviceClass> <wattage>0</wattage> <dcPeriod>0</dcPeriod> <pnode>3D 7C 5B 1</pnode> <ELK_ID>C07</ELK_ID> <property id="ST" value="0" formatted="Off" uom="%/on/off"/> </node> <properties> <property id="OL" value=" " formatted=" " uom="%/on/off"/> <property id="RR" value=" " formatted=" " uom="seconds"/> <property id="ST" value="0" formatted="Off" uom="%/on/off"/> </properties> </nodeInfo>

So this device: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2342-242-mini-remote-switch.html Is almost exactly what we are talking about (they also make 4 & 8 scene kepads). All they would need to do is make a hard wired version for power with no battery at all. Unfortunately, they are almost the same price as a full blown switchlink

It still seems like a nice option to have IMO - I wouldn't mind a cheap slave switch that just trips the master relay. I don't see a downside really, especially for basement lights, garage lights, etc where dimmers aren't used. Oh well, smarthome had it and then they axed it. I guess the decision was already made!

Totally agree! My house is full of 3 & 4 way switches, it makes this upgrade process pretty painful for the wallet. The fan in my great room has 5 switches connected to it!!

Ahh that makes so much more sense now. I didn't know that they made slave switches that were designed to be physically wired to the master switch.

You can save your username & password quite easily because it is a standard HTTP 401 challenge, so you can submit your credentials via the URL. The syntax is: http://username:password@hostname So if your username is mwareman, and your password is "topsecret" and your ISY is on IP address 10.0.1.10, enter this URL into safari: http://mwareman:topsecret@10.0.1.10 Then bookmark it and save it as a web short cut on your home screen. This will put an application icon directly on your iPhone's springboard which has the username and password saved in the address. Safari will complain about accessing a phishing site because it detects that you are passing a username & password in the URL. You can ignore the warning every time, or you can disable the warning in the preferences (only do this if you know what you are doing). HTH!

A friend of mine gave me some old unused Insteon toggle lincs that he had laying around. Two of them are newer and work fine with my other modern insteon gear (ISY included). One of them is obviously much older than the other two. It has a sticker on the faceplate that says "V1.0" and is branded "Smarthome" instead of "Smartlabs". I hooked it up and to my dismay, it won't control the local load. I thought maybe it had a bad relay, so I took it apart. Here's what I found: I'm no EE, but this looks like a shoddy bomb casing filled with used pinball machine parts! There's no load relay, no microcontroller, no nothing. Just a few diodes, resistors and an LED. What purpose did this thing serve? I'm so confused!

The verdict is in - a resistor between the sense input and the micro-controller was bad!

I guess that would make it easy to test the circuit separate from the led. Ill give it a try.

Yes, I did the factory rest before even testing it. Do you know if its possible to test the current limiting resistor? I popped the case apart, though I haven't pulled the pcb out yet.

Hi Jon, Can you clarify what you mean by "test the contacts to see if they're working". Which contacts? The NO/NC? I should have mentioned in my first post - that was the first thing I did when I got the i/o linc.

I just tested it and I get 4.7 volts between GND & S terminals.

Someone gave me a used I/O Linc model 2450. The relay seems to work - when I press the set button there is an audible click and the white LED by the set button lights up. Using a multimeter I can see that NO and NC have continuity with COM depending on if the white LED is lit or not. However, I can't seem to get the Sense LED to light. I shorted the GND & S terminals with a jumper wire, but the green Sense LED will not illuminate. I linked it with my ISY and it the Sensor says "off" no matter if I have the terminals shorted or not. Is this a common problem/failure? Any ideas or just throw it in the trash?

Thanks for contributing.

Hi Michel, that's really great news. Thanks for considering a solution to this problem. Hi Eric, You would probably never want to send a direct brightness command to more complex scenes as you have described. These examples are probably what most people think about when you talk about scenes, and is one of the reasons so many people don't "get" this request. The problem is that the the setup of a simple 3 way switch with a single load also requires the creation of a scene, which I have always found to be a little strange, but it is what it is. This is where the direct brightness command makes sense. Currently you can send direct brightness commands to a 2 way switch with a single load, but you can't do it for a 3 way switch with a single load. That's just a silly limitation that the ISY could solve.

I tried that before posting Let me know if you find a different result, but this is EXACTLY what I'm asking UD to support...