BobMic

Update on this. I was again fighting the status of the button LED's not matching what the management console was showing when the scenes were triggered in Mobilinc. It turns out that the older 2486 KPL's don't work correctly. When I select a fan speed in Mobilinc all four button LED's light. The correct speed is set and the management console shows the correct LED lit and the other three off but that is not the case on the KPL, all four are lit. It works perfectly on the 2334 KPL's.

Interesting, that's not the case for irrigation controller. All of the header pins for the daughter board, except for v+ (1) and GND (8), go to IO pins in the PIC microcontroller. The program in the PIC 16F648A must be the same for USB and Serial, it's not on the irrigation base boards. For one thing pin 6 on the header has a 1OOhz 1ms clock pulse. Header pinout 1 - +21v 2 - PIC pin 9 RB2/TX/CK 3 - PIC pin 12 RB5 4 - PIC pin 14 RB7 5 - PIC pin 8 RB1/RX/DT 6 - PIC pin 11 RB4 7 - PIC pin 13 RB6 8 - GND

I tried to use a 2413U base board to replace the base board in a EzFlora and it didn't work. There is a PIC Microcontroller on the base board and for sure it has a different program loaded on the EzFlora. It seems like the daughter boards are just IO interfaces and the programming is in the PIC on the main board.

I just tested my config and double tap of any button does put the fan controller in high and the buttons are out of sync. I think you are right in that the only way to get around that is to use a program that sets the fan and LEDs status for an "on" or "fast-on" to the same appropriate level. That may be what led me to hide all but the "on" button in Mobilinc. Thanks for pointing that out!

Not sure because I don't use the admin console to control them. Most of my problems were related to Mobilinc Pro and that was my motivation to do the testing and write up. I'll test the double tap and report back. Notice I removed all buttons in Mobilinc except for the "on" button which I renamed to "select" because I was getting unreliable results with other buttons so my "select" gave the same results every time.

Thanks, it took quite a while but now I have a standard procedure. Buttons worked fine but I have never been satisfied with the way Mobilinc was controlling it. That's why I decided to push every button and check/uncheck every box to find the closest path to my Mobilinc goal. That's a great addition to my bag of tricks, thanks! I have never tried toggling a fan speed on and off so didn't realize the off is redundant. I like the idea that the fan and light can be controlled by the four buttons and the local up/down dimmer can be used for something else. Another option is an eight button KPL controlling two fan/light systems. Now you need to spend half a day sorting out how to write that up so anyone can understand...?

After reading many posts on keeping status in sync on this setup and having mixed results for a very long time, I have created a step by step of my best results. I welcome all comments and corrections. I am by no means an expert but have tried to explain why I have done things the way I did and what the outstanding issues are. To put all of that in a format that I hope anyone can understand and learn the Intricacies of Mobilinc - KPL LEDs and scenes, ended up quite long. I'm sure the experts will be bored to death but I expect some will get what they need. I also hope the experts will improve on the things that I still struggle with. Fanlinc – KPL keypad – Mobilinc Pro Link Fanlinc controller and Keypad. Check box “remove existing links” box. Create separate folders for the devices and the scenes. Name them to whatever makes sense to you. Move Fanlinc and the five keypad devices into the devices folder. Rename Keypad buttons and Fanlinc devices. – note order in Mobilinc is alpha/numeric so put 1,2,3&4 ahead of 1-High, 2-Med, 3-Low & 4-Off. If you don’t do this the order will be High, Low, Med & Off, alphabetically in Mobilinc. This is the only way I have found to order things in Mobilinc Pro. Set button toggle mode to "all non-toggle on" then set light button to toggle. Create a scene for each button, Light, 1-High, 2-Med, 3-Low & 4-Off. Again, to keep the order correct in Mobilinc, put 1,2,3,4 in front of the scene names. Move the scenes into the scenes folder and build the scenes with the devices and the buttons as follows. Add the Light device to the Light scene and the Fan device to each of the fan scenes as responders. Add the Light button to the Light scene as a controller. Add the Fan 1-High button to the 1-High scene as a controller, add the 2-Med, 3-Low & 4-Off buttons as responders. Add the Fan 2-Med button to the 2-Med scene as a controller, add the 1-High, 3-Low & 4-Off buttons as responders. Add the Fan 3-Low button to the 3-Low scene as a controller, add the 1-High, 2-Med, & 4-Off buttons as responders. Add the Fan 4-Off button to the 4-Off scene as a controller, add the 1-High, 2-Med & 3-Low buttons as responders. The next steps set up the “scenes” items to the desired states when selected in Mobilinc. Click on the 1-High scene, select 2-Med at the top of the page, change it to “off” and click the “update” button on the bottom of the page. Set 3-Low & 4-Off to off the same way. Leave the Fan controller set to high and the 1-High (controller button) set to “default”. The on and off state of the buttons reflects the LED state when the “Scene” is selected in Mobilinc Pro. It does not set the status if the scene is selected with the KPL, we will do that later. Click on the 2-Med scene, select the Fan controller, set to med and click the “update” button at the bottom. Click on the 1-High, 3-Low and 4-Off, switch each to off and update, again leave the controller button set to default. Do the same for the 3-Low and 4-Off scenes respectively. The next steps set up the “scenes” items to the desired states when selected with the buttons on the KPL directly. The settings will be the same as for the scenes settings in the last group but instead of selecting the scene, click on the controller button in each scene and set the states. Click on the 1-High button (the controller) in the scene tree, select 2-Med at the top of the page, change it to “off” and click the “update” button on the bottom of the page. Set 3-Low & 4-Off to off the same way. Leave the Fan controller set to high and the 1-High (controller button) set to “default”. Click on the 2-Med controller button in the scene, select the Fan controller, set to med and click the “update” button at the bottom. Click on the 1-High, 3-Low and 4-Off, switch each to off and update, again leave the controller button set to default. Do the same for the 3-Low and 4-Off scenes respectively. Test buttons on the KPL while watching the fan controller, if they don’t stay in sync check the scene settings for each controller button in each scene. The controller button settings control the scene for button presses. The scene settings only affect the scene triggered by Mobilinc Pro. This took a while to sink in for me so I have repeated it and if it doesn't make sense read it again. This is very important to understand troubleshoots the LEDs when they are not staying in sync. This concludes the set up in the ISY. Mobilinc Pro Setup Make sure “Show Hidden Items” check box is not checked in Mobilinc Configuration. Hide all entries in the “My Devices” folder created above to prevent changes from being made to the fan/light controller or the KPL buttons directly which will get things out of sync with the KPL LEDs. Go into the “My Scenes” and the scene folder made above and select one of the fan button scenes. Choose “Advanced Options” at the bottom. At the top under “Custom Command Names” select and delete the text for each “BRIGHTEN, OFF, DIM, FAST ON and FAST OFF”. This will hide those buttons. Change the text for “ON” to “Select”. This select button is the only control you need to activate the scene. Using any of the other buttons just adds complications and there is no benefit. Change the icon to the fan icon. Select the Light button and advanced, change the icon to the chandelier icon. (my preference, you can use whatever you like) Don’t use the sliders in the Light scene or it will get out of sync. All the buttons will work correctly. Unfortunately, in the Android version of Mobilinc Pro the button icons don’t show the correct status and tapping on the icon does not work correctly. I believe this is caused by how Mobilinc presents a percentage based on all devices in the scene rather than the status of the controller in the scene. The correct status is displayed when you go into a button scene to select it. The icon tap seems to be an on/off toggle. Both the display and icon tap seems to work correctly in the iOS version. I hope this helps someone understand the interaction of these devices. Writing it up has made it very clear to me and I'm now in sync! Bob

It doesn't look like it does the handshake when I plug it in, LED just goes green solid. I have one of their units with the 2412. I thought it was an older version, it's labeled EZRain V1, has a blue LED and doesn't have a removable connector. It's the one I used to replace the problem one. It has a different daughter board also. Much smaller to leave room for the big transformer of the 2412.

Yes I made sure the pins engaged properly and even tested the voltage on the daughter card to male sure they were electrically engaged. I tried to auto link with the event viewer open on level 3 but the EZFlora doesn't go into "link mode" when I hold the set button. I tried one of my other EZFloras and it goes into link mode when the button is held but also didn't show up on the log or linking GUI. Thanks for the try, at least I know it is acting different than the good one by not entering linking mode. Pretty sure linking is a function of the 2413X and not the EZFlora daughter card. I may take the good one apart and test that by swapping the daughter cards.

I had one of my EZFlora Controllers stop responding so swapped it out with my spare and pulled out my kit of 2413-x capacitors and changed them out. When I try to link it to teat it fails with the "can not determine Insteon engine". I checked the power supplies and they seem fine at about 22v and 5v. I left my scope at work so can't check the ripple right now but am starting to think it may have not been a power supply poroblem. An added twist is that the address tag is missing so I restored an old backup to get the address but I am as sure I one can be that I have the correct address. I have done a reset in the EZFlora several times and it does what it's supposed to do , red LED and buzzer for about 10 seconds then LED goes green when I release. Is there anything else that I can check? Thanks, Bob

Thank you Larry!!! Exactly what I was looking for but just couldn't find the right key words to hit it I guess. My requirement is very similar to yours as I am trying to track my HVAC usage at the vacation house to trouble shoot a problem. The other thread is also very interesting and I will probably end up with a network module to do some long term tracking on a few things. Warmest regards, Bob

I would like to log the time of day and duration that my thermostat is calling for cooling during the day. I expect that there are many uses for logging device on times and duration but have not been able to find anything in the forums about how it could be done.

I've just added a 2982-222 Smoke Bridge and it seems to have linked correctly. I have seven entries in the ISY and am trying to figure out what the "current state" should be for each entry. The only one that has a state displayed is test which is always on after the first time I pressed test on the FirstAlert. I tried deleting it from the ISY and linking again but got the same response, no state displayed for any of the entries until I press test then test goes to "on" and stays on. I would expect test to go to off once the FirstAlert test cycle completes. I also expected the other entries to display something like off for Smoke and CO. Does anyone know what each of the entries does and should be displaying as a state and what their other possible states are? The entries are: Smoke CO Test Unknown Message Clear Low Bat Multifunction

Thanks Brian, I got the spec sheet. That makes sense that D7 is a Zener and R7 is its load. That would mean that if the voltage at the cathode of D6 exceeds the Zener voltage by ~ 1.2v the transistor in the opto drives a current into the feed-back of U1 to regulate the output. That would put the Zener at about 18.8v for the readings others have reported (20v). R6 may have some influence depending on its value but probably there to limit the current into the opto. Thanks for the tip on the through-hole. Probably what I need to do. I didn't get a chance to work on it last night and not sure when I will get another chance with Christmas almost here but I will report back once I get a look.

Thank you for the schematic in post #282. I thought I was going to have to draw it myself. One question...it looks like D7 is backwards? I repaired a 5010 which of course failed at 2y 3mo and it has been working now for about 4 months. Yesterday my other 5010 which is 2y 7mo old failed so I dug back into my bag of caps and swapped them out only to find it completely dead after the repair. I expect I have a problem with board damage as I had trouble getting a couple of the caps off this time. I will do some tracing with the help of your schematic tonight. I will confirm tonight and report back with what I find and also what I screwed up so that the next guy who makes the same mistake can fix it. I also wanted to mention that i tried to use the board from a 2413S with the 5010 daughter board and the firmware must not be compatible. Anyone have a work-around for that? Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread. You can put me down as 1 5010 EzFlora fixed and 1 more soon to be fixed. Bob

Thanks Jimbo and Stu. I made a few adjustments and have the KPL working as it should. I hope this little sidetrack helps the OP get his KPLs doing what he wants. I was having trouble getting the KPL to take the changes which is not too much of a surprise as it is 2008 vintage and of course power line only. I did find something that may help others. It appears that if I have the load full up it takes the updates better. That may be a function of having a light load (LEDs) or may just be a coincidence. I couldn't get it to take the changes reliably with the load dimmed but took it right in with the load full up. The other thing I had to fiddle with was the toggle modes. I ended up with the main buttons set for toggle, the "nightlight" button set as non-toggle/on and the "goodnight" button set as non-toggle/off. Nightlight turns off most of the devices in the scene but sets the connected load to 15% and a couple other devices to a low level. Goodnight turns everything off. I did get an error when I tried to set the connected load to 0% for the goodnight scene. It said that a button on the device could not set the connected load off so I set it to 1%.

Not an issue for me because I'm using it in 6 button mode. I only have scenes on the 4 center buttons and use the big buttons as a standard dimmer control for the connected load. The other thing I don't quite understand about the KPL is the toggle modes...? Thanks for the tip!!

So let's see if I understand...by putting KPL-B in scene 1 as a responder you are setting the LED for button B to off when scene 1 is pressed? That may explain why my LEDs have never done what I wanted them to do. Is the LED on a button just a responder and the button just a controller and act independently? Thanks, Bob

I think this is what you are trying to do: Scene 1 (push button KPL-A) Controller/Responder – KPL- A it’s load at 20% Responder - light 1 at 20% Responder – light 2 at 20% Etc Scene 2 (push button KPL-B Controller KPL-B Responder – KPL-A load at %50 Responder – light 1 at 100% Responder – light 2 at 80% Etc As I understand it you should be able to do this with no problem. I have similar scenes in my set up where button ##.##.##-B controls the attached load at a different on % than the main button. I am using mine as a 6 button so the connected load is controlled by the top and bottom buttons like a simple dimmer and the other 4 buttons are scenes that include the connected load and several other devices but I can't imagine it is any different in 8 button mode.