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lithiumus

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  1. Yeah I have some slight occasional comm problems usually with my night (almost all off) scene where some of the commands seem to get lost / not triggering some lights to go off. Could just be too many commands so I put some pauses in which seem to help space it out. Every switch in my house is either a dual band dimmer or dual band keypad. I have about 60 or more switches and about 54 of them are all dual band. I've got 5 dual band receptacles as well. So I think I have enough on both phases but maybe the issue now is too much traffic or possibly some of it being absorbed. Flicker is definitely a problem but not sure the filtering will help could just be the LED bulbs keypadlincs being more sensitive to insteon traffic.
  2. Thanks. It was on a dedicated 20A plug but it was shared with my UPS. Now it's on a separate isolated 1 foot length leg to a plug mounted on the panel's backboard and the Phase coupler is one position above the PLM breaker. I've got a few Filterlincs but I'll need an X10 20A for the large UPS leg to keep it from absorbing signals. Thanks for the help!
  3. So I've installed a phase coupler in my panel and I recall reading Stu saying to install it as close to the source as possible. Does he mean to place it in position 1/3 at the top of the panel right below the main 200 amp breaker so that all the other legs are below or (after) the phase coupler?
  4. haha. OK. Troubleshooting done. I had to do a PLM restore. As part of the move and trying to get the PLM up I did a hard reset and forgot to do a PLM restore to bring back all the links. NOW my programs are working fine! Ordering a phase coupler and a few Filterlincs for my power bars... Let's see if I can reduce the flickering now.
  5. Thanks. Definitely a cable length problem... well over 50 feet so I moved the ISY right next to the power panel. Now I'm seeing a new problem... none of my programs are working now that I've moved the ISY. Weird. I can still control the lights but the status' are spotty and my programs don't work at all. Time to troubleshoot...
  6. So I found this thread as I am also having flickering issues and Teken, this list of suggestions is great. I've been having both flickering issues as well as so larger scenes / programs that work about 60% of the time where some of the devices were not getting the commands, etc. After taking the time to check it out... I realized that my PLM was on the same circuit as my rack of Network and AV equipment all connected to my 2200VA UPS! While my PLM was plugged directly to an outlet, it was plugged in on the same outlet as my UPS. I tried to move the PLM to the electrical panel but for some reason, the long CAT6 run from the equipment to the power panel was either too long or something is wrong. Gig Ethernet works just fine so I moved the ISY and PLM to the power panel so it's on a dedicated short run leg right on the panel backboard... why have the ISY on a UPS when all the lights will be dead anyway... Question about phase couplers... was looking at a Simply Automated ZPCI coupler. I actually have 2nd panel on the 2nd floor, would I need 2 couplers or will one on the main panel be enough? Will also look into purchasing a few Filterlincs to help isolate a few of my AV power bars. Thanks for all the advice!
  7. Thanks guys! I looked more carefully and I think I see where the problem may lie... I actually have both a Night scene and a program that runs when the Night scene is activated. What I did was separate all the devices that did not belong to a scene and placed them inside the Night scene which was taken care of when the Night scene is activated. Then I placed all the Scenes inside a program that would turn all the scenes off. I believe I did that because some of my scenes had multiple devices like a 3 or 4 way switch so it was cleaner to place the one scene in a program and turn it off, rather than add 3-4 devices to a big scene. I suspect when they are both running at the same time, they are likely colliding with each other. I could take all the Scenes out of the program and put all the individual devices into a separate scene or just add some wait timers in the program. I think adding wait timers is less work, but if you guys tell me the right and best way to do it would be to add all the devices into a scene and not run a program, I'll do it!
  8. My entire house is fitted with Switchlincs, Micro Dimmers, Keypadlincs, etc. I've got a program called Night where I turn off most of lights in the house. The program calls 19 set commands. Mostly setting Insteon scenes off and Switchlincs that are not part of scenes directly off. From time to time, some of the scenes or switches do not turn off. I'm wondering if I should be putting in some wait commands. Is there a best practice to not string too many set commands within the program?
  9. Thanks Tim. Not sure I can invest the time to get Pi up and running. Might get a 2411R going for now and look at getting a Pi later this summer.
  10. Quick question as I start to get into this... If I have 3 Logitech Harmony hubs in various locations, I assume I would need 3 Insteon 2411R devices and simply connect them directly to each of the Harmony Hubs via 3.5mm to 2.5mm wire so all 3 can receive commands for the Insteon network. Does that make sense?
  11. Thanks guys. That clears it up. I was actually able to get the keypadlinc button to turn off via the scene and the controller commands without having to use a program. I guess it was working as it should in non-toggle ON and when I adjusted the scene and both controllers to set the keypadlinc button OFF, the key now blinks twice and stays off they way I want it to. Thanks again and sorry for the confusion! I think the reason the button was turning off when there was only 1 controller in the scene was because I either had the scene or the controller command set the button to OFF. When I added the other controller, I didn't set its command to also set the button to off. Now the Scene and both controller commands are setting the button to off so it's working as I wanted.
  12. However... if the Keypadlnc LED is already on and you change it to non-toggle... the button LED will stay lit when you press it. It will blink 2 times and stay on. So basically the Keypadlinc stops toggling the LED and seems to ignore whatever state the LED of the button is... if it's already on, then it stays on and if it's already off, it stays off in non-toggle mode. My problem is that the LED is responding to the "on" command from another controller... which will soon be addressed!
  13. hey oberkc, I'm just a noob but a Keypadlinc button LED that stays on when pressed and then LED off when pressed again would be configured as Toggle. A non-toggle by definition should not keep the LED on and should stay off while sending either "on" command or "off" command depending on what you decide. None of my Keypadlincs in Non-Toggle mode will keep the LED on after you press it. It only blinks twice then stays off. Did the behavior change with newer versions?
  14. Hey oberkc, when I press the Keypadlinc A/B/C/D button, the button LED blinks twice, sends an ON signal to the scene and the button LED stays unlit. I believe this is the expected and normal behavior. non-Toggle OFF should do the exact same except send an OFF signal to the scene which I do not want as I'm turning some lights on with the "night" scene. Based on what stu is saying it's making sense now... when 2 controllers are added to a scene, they are both controllers and responders. When I press button A, it acts as a controller and ALL other buttons act as a responder including button C which is the other controller. Even though I have set the scene to turn off button C as well as the button A controller command of the scene... button C still stays on. May have something to do with the timing which Stu may have eluded to with the delayed program to turn off the buttons as responders.
  15. Ah yes! As always... the master Jedi's wisdom is demonstrated! I really need to expand my mind... Thanks for showing me the way!
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