fryfrog

And I believe the on/off only has an LED for 0% and 100%. You won't see the LED climb up and indicate level like you will on a dimmer. The on/off switches are the same price as dimmers... why wouldn't you just use dimmers in the dummy locations?

I've read if you make your isy's username and password the same as you use for your portal, you can fill in the local http with your local isy's info and you'll get blazingly fast local access when you're local. And it'll use the portal when you're not. You *can* also just use a dynamic dns entry and port forwarding for remote secure access.

Sorry, I don't know how being an installer works. Why does an installer have a portal account and all the ISYs associated with it? So they can manage them easier? How many ISYs does an installer typically manage? I assume far more than 2-3 devices. In that case, the discount would be a trivial portion of the total so it wouldn't matter that they get 2 of their ISYs discounted. They could take that $25-50 every 2 years and... keep it or return it to all their customers as a $1 discount or something. Sorry, I'm just a regular guy... not an installer. Have two houses and two ISYs and will soon need two on portal because of how awesome Amazon's Echo is. It'd be nice to get a discount.

I just setup an Echo at our vacation house and love it. Will set one up in our main house too, a discount for just 1-2 extra ISYs would be reasonable and would mostly solve the installer problem. One, two or three devices is probably just some guy. 5 or more is probably not.

I've got about 12 of these between two houses, so far even though all they're doing is motion sensing and acting as secure repeaters... I love them. I strongly suggest a) including them securely while powered by usb and powering them by usb wherever you install them because if you do, they'll act as secure repeaters. They really shored up my sparse zwave network (virtually all my HA is Insteon, but locks are zwave).

I use one button to control the speed of my whole house fan (5 total speeds, another house has one with 7), a single button actually has a lot of great modes you can track. I set the keypad button to "on only" (or whatever it is called), to make things simple. Now you have long press on (fade up), fast on (double press) and on (normal press). Logically, I like single press being increase speed and double press being decrease speed. I use long press for a forced off, so you don't have to decrease speed until its off. I have a couple of programs that just watch this and increment or decrement a state variable.

And to be double clear, you're just *using* the ISY to create the scenes. It actually writes them to the devices involved, so after you've set them up you could turn off the ISY and the switches / scenes you've created will still work. Basically instead of doing a lot of pressing buttons and setting on levels and ramp rates on the devices and going back and forth between them, the ISY is doing that for your. It is just a *lot* easier to create a scene from the ISY, all drag and drop and click and tick box and such. Easy to fiddle with things to make it exactly like what you want.

Please tell, it could help someone in the future... and give us all a good chuckle!

One example would be when a 6 button KPL is linked to a fan controller. You'd set A, B, C and D to be exclusive (radio button mode?) and they'd be for fan speeds. Since you only want one of 3 (4 including off) fan speeds.

Nice, I've got a big ol' order to make and this'll take a significant chunk off it.

Oh, duh yeah that would make sense.

If you're talking about outside security lights, flood lights with motion sensors, the micro on/off or dimmer work a treat. I use them in my two outside installations. I've unwired the motion detector from directly controlling the lights, instead it is hooked to the sense wire of a micro module. So now, I can turn the lights on via regular old Insteon commands (a switch? my phone? a program?), but the motion detector will also turn the lights on. I've bound them both into a scene where they're both controllers, so if you trigger one light it'll turn the other on too. I like the dimmer best because you can set a ramp rate and on level, nice and slow and pretty low since I'm using them to see at night for the most part. If you plan on using Insteon for other things, I wouldn't worry much about building out your repeater network. Just replace a few strategically located switches with dual band devices and grow from there. At all your panels, you could install a passive phase bridge to couple both legs. I imagine one in each of the secondary boxes would take care of all the circuits on them. I'm not sure if you'd need one in the primary or not, my logical guess is no... but maybe someone can chime in. You'd just need one in your primary.

You need to make the KPL button a *responder* to the io link's sensor and a *controller* of the iolink's relay. Then the light will behave as expected. Except of course that stupid query bug that means you need to swap the sensor type to the opposite of what it is.

Want to paste a program here for us to have a look at? Here is an example of what mine looks like, I like to use the time range so that if the ISY comes back from a reboot or something it'll trigger. I also think it makes it a little easier to see the time ranges. 0 Morning - [ID 0053][Parent 0073] If From 6:00:00AM To 10:59:59AM (same day) Then Set 'Inside / Upstairs / Thermostat' 70° F (Heat Setpoint) Set 'Inside / Upstairs / Thermostat' 73° F (Cool Setpoint) Set 'Inside / Downstairs / Thermostat' 70° F (Heat Setpoint) Set 'Inside / Downstairs / Thermostat' 73° F (Cool Setpoint) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Are you leaving the ISY for the people taking over your home? I've wondered what I'd do in this situation... I don't think I'd leave mine, only because I think it'd be beyond most users. Have you considered just leaving all the Insteon device only stuff setup and taking the ISY? Since the ISY writes scenes and such to the switches, you only need it for the advanced stuff.

Now-a-days they're $1.5-$3 on Amazon, but Aeotec claims they'll last 2 years. The first pair I ordered came with batteries, the next 10 didn't. I got the first 2 from a pre-order at http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/where they say they come with batteries. I got the next 10 from the same shop, but their Amazon store. So be sure you order from their own site if you want batteries.

Ha

How about one of the new Aeotec Multi Sensors? You get humidity and temperature along with a bunch of other useful information. They're not that expensive and they can be hard powered via USB (but they're still zwave of course). I got 2 to test with and like them so far, another 10 arrived a few days ago. Can't wait to start putting them up!

Send X10 'A10/All Lights On (5)' Why the heck is this in there? Does it really turn all the lights on if the heartbeat is missed for 25 hours?

Can a lock have repeater neighbors that won't pass along encrypted communication? Logically, it seems like the only repeater neighbors for a lock would be ones that it could communicate with. Looking at the output from one of my locks, I can see that it considers both of my dedicated repeaters, both of my sirens, both of my usb powered multisensors and both of my thermostats to be repeaters. The other locks show up, but since they're battery powered they are obviously not repeaters. Unlike most, adding the sirens has *not* increased my communication reliability, I think my Yale locks just aren't the best. Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] Node 3 - Front Lock has the following neighbors Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - - Node 1 - [This ISY] Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - - Node 4 - Back Lock Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 6 - Repeater #1 Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - - Node 8 - Laundry Lock Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 9 - Repeater #2 Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - - Node 11 - Garage Lock Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 12 - Thermostat Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 13 - Thermostat Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 17 - Sensor #1 Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 18 - Siren #1 Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 19 - Siren #2 Sun 07/19/2015 09:02:40 PM : [ZW-SHOW ] - Repeater - Node 20 - Sensor #2

Yeah, looks like the volume is loud, louder, loudest and REALLY LOUD!

How about one of Tesla's battery packs, a whole house UPS!

That rarely reboots, doesn't ever have issues and is generally very reliable. Otherwise, something like a Pi 2 is great because it is cheap and extremely reliable, set it up right and worst case you pull and re-apply power to get it back up. You can tuck it away next to your ISY and pretty much forget about it. Maybe even use it w/ the 5.0 firmware. If you're not familiar with Linux, it might not be a great choice though. I believe they'll run Windows 10, but don't know anything about that.

I have an 8 button remote and it can be setup in one of three ways, each is on/off, each is on and each is off. In the first mode, a button press will either flash a red or green, depending on what it is sending. I haven't used the other two modes, but I assume it'd always flash red for off or always flash green for on. I *assume* the four button controller is similar, but I'd think the a button would always send on and b button always send off. Maybe it is configurable? I don't have a 4 button scene controller to test. Maybe this person linked a 4 scene controller as an 8?

Basically *all* the switches in my house are now Insteon, so I suspect the passive phase bridge is simply redundant at this point. Maybe it helped a little when I only had a few devices.