Traditore

@Panda88 I've just PM'ed you a log. Looks like a problem with my public key not being paired to my car. re: Odometer reporting miles instead of km, I'm sure this can be fixed because under Charging Info, the Estimated Range is correctly reported in km. @bmercier Your link works. I mean, I'm able to download the .pem file from my phone or my computer, but neither knows what to do with it.

Hi, Proud owner of a 2024 M3 in Gatineau, Quebec, Canada. I just bought the new Tesla NS. Thanks for reviving this. Right off the bat, clicking this link https://tesla.com/_ak/my.isy.io on the mobile device where the Tesla app is installed won't let me install a virtual key. Basically, I can't send commands to my car. No honk, no trunk, no frunk. etc. And I know my car is compatible with virtual keys because I have another app that needs a Vkey and it works flawlessly. This is what the Tesla app shows : ----------------------------------------- That being said, I am able to authenticate the NS through PG3x 3.2.27. The authentication is shown in my profile on the Tesla website. So, I see the info in the admin console and I can poll my car and see the info update itself. ----------------------------------------- By the way, there's a typo here. It should say Celsius. ----------------------------------------- There's a miles vs. kilometers problem. My car has more than 9K, but the console show 5.6K. Looks like the wrong unit is being reported. ----------------------------------------- My car has rear middle seat heating and steering wheel heating, but they show as unknown/not installed. ----------------------------------------- Going back to the virtual key... Tried different browsers on my phone. Logged in and out of the Tesla app and my account on the Tesla website. Nothing seems to work. I hope you can help me figure this out.

Wow! Backing up my Polisy was lightning fast. I, too, had to check that the file was actually created.

Hey Goose, Any chance you'll port your node to PG3?

Thanks all for your input. I appreciate it. Good advice.

Thanks so much. I agree that the 2-program method is better in the long end.

Ok, that works with the following 2 programs (1st one enabled, 2nd one disabled). If Time is 9:00:00PM Then Run Program 'Footrest warning' (If) If 'Guest Room Footrest' Status is On Then Set Elk Speak Word 'Bedroom' Set Elk Speak Word 'Heat' Set Elk Speak Word 'Is_on' Wait 5 minutes Run Program 'Footrest warning' (If) That works but I swear that's not how I did something similar before. And I appreciate that ISY allows many different solutions to a particular problem. So if anyone has other ideas, I'm open. I guess my next step is to find a way to stop the 2nd program from repeating in case I do want to let the heater run after 9:00 p.m.

Hey all, Super simple. And I know I asked something similar a few years ago, but I can't find the answer in the forum anymore. I want to make sure that a footrest heater is off after 10 p.m. and have Elk warn me if it's on. So far I have this (sorry, can't remeber how to insert code inline): But I know it won't work because the time condition will not be met after the 5 minutes wait. And there might be a Repeat command missing in there as well. I want Elk to stop speaking once I turn off the heater. How do I fix this?

No need to power it up. A diode test on a DMM sends voltage across the leads. It's different than testing for resistance. Hence the V. 3 of the diodes have V readings both ways, where I should have OL on one side. Obviously not blocking the current anymore. They're older ICON LampLincs. Not worth it. Garbage, it is. But thanks for everyone's input.

Thanks for identifying the right diode. Not too sure why you mentioned uF instead of V. Must be because we were also talking about caps earlier. Anyway... I'm getting 0.6V forward bias and OL reverse bias. I believe it means this diode is neither opened nor shorted. And I have continuity to the black wire. I tested other diodes on this PCB. Some produce similar readings. Others (D7, D8, D12) have V both ways, which is probably not a good sign. Any other thoughts before I throw them in the garbage?

I must admit that the ooze I see on the crystal and on the board might be glue. But if it is, well, it's not holding anything anymore. lol I haven't removed the heatshrink tube to look at the fuse, but there's continuity between both ends of the line input wire. So that probably checks out. Also ran continuity checks on traces from underneath the board. All good. Now, on to the 30V Zener diode... I don't know which one that is. Could you enlighten me? I'll then break out the multimeter and see what readings I get. Thanks for all the help. Edit: in the meantime, I took readings on a few of the diodes. About .450V one way and OL the other way.

No, I haven't yet. I'll get to that later. Not worth doing now unless I can also replace the crystal.

Hi, I have two failed LampLincs. Each has two blown capacitors (35V 470uF and 16V 100uF), which I've replaced. But there's a third problematic component I can't identify for sure. A Google search for 221AP96 yields nothing. On the front side, it's soldered to Y1. Could it be a crystal? If so, how do I determine its value? I'd like to order a replacement online.

MstrD - My turn to revive an old thread... I actually ended up here while playing with Tapatalk. There's a place where it shows all the threads I subscribed to or participated in and I stumbled upon this one. Anyway... I tried what you suggested (\r in C Escaped mode) and it worked!!! This might convince me to further integrate my MCA-C5, even though I have already done a lot in raw mode (with binary hex conversion): on, off, mute, pause, play, stop, source selection, vol up and down for all eight zones. A while ago, I uploaded my basic resource files on the wiki: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Networking:Network_Resources#Russound_MCA_Series I might eventually get around to uploading my extended set of commands. Thanks for following up on this after all this time. It might come handy in the future.

I'm using smtp.gmail.com, port 587. User ID : my Gmail address. Password: my Gmail password. From*: ISY. Timeout: 1000. Use TLS: checked. I see the *First-Name Last-Name:Email-Address line, but I don't know what it means for the From* field above. I only had time to test one of the possibilities I mentioned before and the result is the same. Using the Default SMTP server, I get this from alerts@universal-devices.com: Subject: ISY ALARM At: 2013/03/04 8:08:55 AM Body: Mime-Version:1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Testing