Brian H

Yes. UDI sells a replacement. My first one was a 5V 500Ma. The ISY994i has wide input voltage range. 5V to 30V 1 or more amps. 5.5 mm barrel and a 2.2 mm center pin. Many here have used 12V. 1 or 2 amp just fine. UDI presently is selling a 12V 2 Amp in their sales site. Near the bottom of the page. https://www.universal-devices.com/store/

I would also suspect a label changed. Even the original in the FCC Database shows it is Dual-Band. I do know their where a few users manuals over the 2487S documentation. To my earlier post. The 1600k you read on Red and Black sounds like the relay contacts where stuck shut and after tapping the readings are more like I would expect.

The 2487S also has a higher line voltage range of 120VAC to 277VAC and a higher output current rating. It maybe larger to accommodate the heavier relay for the output. You probably reading through some of the electronics. Though it will be interesting to see if it works properly.

The Green parts are small coils not caps. The beeper already covered. Does it go on and off when the relay clicks. If it is always on then the information below may help. If it goes on and off then I would suspect things like the three electrolytic capacitors. If you have access to a meter. With it disconnected from the house wiring. The resistance between the Black Line and Red Output wires should be very high. If it is low the relay might have stuck contacts. I don't think the module has a snubber across the relay contacts to protect it from possible spikes from the fluorescent light. Not too hard but give the relay a firm mechanical tap and see if it temporarily works again.

Techman has a very good idea. If you see more than one command. Then the I/OLinc maybe fine and just following orders. If it is not being sent more than one command. You can see if the opener works correctly. By tapping the set button on the side. It should toggle the relay on and off. Not sure if you opener normally uses a pule from a relay. My though would be C7. My V 1.0 had a 10uF/25V. A V 1.8 10uF/50V laying sideways as it was too large to sit in the solder holes. My V 2.3 220uF/50V also mounted sideways. 25V is low as the supply is around 20V. 10uF maybe low as it has to supply all the current when the relay turned on. Maybe possible if the cap is going bad. The relay my double pulse. I don't think they where a capacitor designed for a switching power supply also. I have a list of all of the caps in them if you are interested.

Glad you got it working again. Since it is power line only. It just could have been line garbage causing it to have some bad information in it. That your actions corrected. It has a switching power supply in it and there where a few different capacitors used. Keeping an eye on it may show it is fine or the problem happens again.

Can you describe the connections? Like the sensor is connected to the sensor input of the I/OLinc, the relay output from the I/OLinc is triggering the gates opener. Relay set to the default continuous or has a momentary on time.

Not correct. The Smartenit, the one in the PLM box or the home made cable. Only carry three connections. I got the feeling many PLM users didn't find the included cable in the boxes cardboard cradle holding the PLM. All of mine had a cable in the box's cardboard cradle. That Smarthome didn't mark on the cradle or add in the Quick Start Sheet. The one in your link carries all the 8 connections and does not connect the correct needed signal pins. May also connect the two not used but available for other uses TTL connections. In the 2413S to something that TTL signals should not be connected too. If you go with the Star Tech. Only use the three connections in the how to threads and make sure none of the other wires are connected and they are insulated so they touch nothing else. Due to the PLM situation. It is possible some users are putting their 2412S PLM back in use. There where two major versions. The older had a 417 link database and you could fill it quite easily. The later had a ~ 2000 link database and on a ISY99i anymore than ~800 links would sometimes start missing link records. I suspect it may have been the speed of the EEPROM and the way the database has to be addressed. Also the 2412S has a unregulated +12VDC (around 19.5VDC) 400mA output. Could run an ISY99i and ISY994i through the serial cable.

Where you using the A10/X0 add on firmware? Wiki indicates. "Using the A10/X10 module A10 and X10 devices can be added to the node tree." Yes the 2448A7 wireless interface, is strictly Insteon RF signaling. So you would loose X10.

If you left the older Insteon devices and they still can control themselves. I believe a remove PLM command goes out and removes the PLM addresses from all the module. So they are not trying to communicate wit a now gone PLM.

If the power supply is starting to go bad. It can cause all kinds of issues. I have had a few fail myself. Not all on one controller but over my ISY26 to ISY99i and then the ISY994i. One of mine was working maybe slightly flaky and then I did a power reset. It never came back up. Even the power On LED was flashing along with the LED on the supply itself. Take a wide range of voltages 5V to 30V. 2.1mm center pin 5.5 mm barrel. UDI sells a replacement of 12V 2A last time I looked. Some of mine where 5V 500mA.

Since almost all presently available X10 devices are strictly receive only. They have no power line transmitter to even reply to a interrogation if it was available.

From what I have seen. They purchased the base 2412 and then 2413 PLM base units and added their own custom daughter board to them. I have a few of their modules and they are on the 2412 boards and case. Along with their custom Daughter Board. Then when they started having issues with the 2413 boards power supplies and this is noted in their Forums. Just like us. They went back to the purchase of 2412 boards assemblies made just for them. My guess is they are also out of everything for the same reason we are. Company status and if the new owners decide what is going the be made again. The parent company is Compacta and you may see that name in the some of the ISY Devices Lists. The older name was SimpleHomeNet and they changed the name to Smartenit.

The 5010V Lot4R is also internet things enabled and is only 4 outputs as previously pointed out. So it will not work for an EZEye digital or analog output. https://docs.smartenit.com/iot4r/iot4r_quick-start.pdf If you are not using the analog output on the EZEye its digital output would probably interface with many other dry contact input devices. Like an I/OLinc or external input on an Insteon Open Closed Sensor. Both would need the external 12 volt supply to power the EZEye module. I have an EZEye coming and may have some more information in maybe a week. As the instruction sheet is confusing between the needed power 8-20VDC and its output type and possible voltage restrictions. I know the I/OLinc has a 5 volt Sensor voltage and if the EZEye has a Dry contact relay or open collector output. It should work. The open closed sensor maybe too low as it is a battery voltage run unit.

You may want to look at the 1011A EZEye sales page on the resource tab. For the manual and its needs. It has four wire connections. +8 to 20VDC,Analog Output,Digital Output and Ground. Has a pot to adjust sensitivity. It uses 8VDC to 20VDC to run but says +12VDC in the EZEye manual. The other SimpleHomeNet and Smartenit modules have a +12V output. The manual indicates a wall wart 12V supply is needed for the EZIO2x4 as it can't supply enough current on its I/O Connectors. Some of the other models do have a +12VDC on their I/O Connectors. The digital and analog outputs are independent so either one can be used or both can. I have some of the manuals for their products. As I had trouble finding the older manuals for previous models. Let me know if you need any. https://smartenit.com/shop/ezeye/

I found the installation information on the up again Insteon support web site. It did not say anything about changing the 2450 I/OLinc from its default continuous relay output.

Does the wiring diagram on the side of the unit. Show the voltage is always On one of the two direction wires. With internal limit switches. I don't suppose there was a information sheet in the box? I tied finding the manual for it but all I could find was a manual bypass instructions and they said remove the control voltage before using. That would also indicate one direction input has a voltage on it all the time. Part Number 7450? Is that maybe a kit ID for all the needed parts? The I/OLinc 2450 in your diagram should be set to continuous relay output. If it needs a voltage on one of the valves control wire all the time. Only thing maybe a power failure. If the relay is in the on position it will go off but so will the wall wart valve control voltage and go back on when power is restored.

This is part of the Smarthome Forum message. They thought a 302545 may just fit. "For what it is worth, the battery in the Mini Remote is accessible and looks like it can be replaced fairly easily. The LIPO (3.7v) battery has a capacity of 300mAh and measures 3mm tall, 25mm wide and 45mm long. For search and id purposes these dimensions are typically denoted as "302545" Clearances within the mini are fairly tight so I'm not sure how much variance from these measurements is tolerable."

I will see it I can find the battery number. Used by a poster on the presently off line Smarthome Forums. The exact battery in the remote was not available so they found a close replacement. That seemed to work fine for them. I too have seen different posts on tabs glued or not. May have been a production change. The internal and external photos of the remote are in the FCC Database in the link in this thread.

Glad it is now working for you. I suspect when you squeezed the casing you put some side pressure on the cables contacts and they made better connection now.

It is a Micro-USB connector. Take a look inside the jack on the remote and you will see the contacts. The plug on the charging cord has the flexible contacts that connect to the contact points inside the jack. The soldered points could be flaky between the jacks contact strips and the solder pads on the board. Though I would suspect the contacts in the charging cord. The photos are in the FCC Database. Including the internal and external photos. SBP Grantee, 23422 product code, in the details tab. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm

There was a thread on the presently gone Smarthome Forums. From a user that changed the battery that would not hold a decent charge. They gently unsnapped the clips and opened it. I have seen reports that some had a small dab of glue on the snaps. The USB connector is a soldered on part and I don't know if you can squeeze the contacts. I have a jpg file of the inside of the remote and I can see if I can get it here.

Did you use the special boot link if the SD card was fresh and no firmware was on it yet? https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

Would be easier to purchase one from Smartenit. If you assemble it then you could probably easily reverse the RS232 #2 and #3 to look at the signals out of the EZIO8SA side of the equation. To just see if they are talking to each other. The LED on the side of the EZICOMM should flash a few times at power up as it reprograms it to ID as a EZIO8SA and not the native EZICOMM ID.

If the LED pattern is not following the sequence in the wiki information but are constantly flashing. It could also be a power supply going bad. If they are always flashing. The power supply maybe going bad. I had a unit doing the same thing and a replacement supply fixed it. Supply may have enough power to keep it sort of running but the reboot kept the supply going on and off. There are also other posts here where the supply was the problem. If your supply has an LED on it. It maybe flashing if the supply is cycling on and off or it has too low an output. The blue power on LED is run directly from the ISY994i internal supply. It should be on all the time. If it is also flashing another reason the wall wart is probably gone. ISY994i has a input range of 5VDC to 30VDC. Center pin positive. Most here go for a 12VDC 1A or 2A. When I looked UDI has a 12VDC 2A replacement on their sales pages. Mine had a 5.5mm barrel with a 2.1mm pin.