Spta97

It seems the problem was related to the LEDs. I swapped out the originals: http://www.lowes.com/pd_64978-3-73193_0__?productId=50226149 And tried Cree. They worked (no flicker) but had a buzzing sound. I then tried Utilitech: http://www.lowes.com/pd_599033-59179-DLS02-04A27D1E-WH-F2___?productId=50213667&pl=1&Ntt=4%26%2334%3B++recessed+led+trim+utilitech No buzzing no flicker. I use the 5/6" version of these for my kitchen and have been happy. I got the sylvania for my bedroom because the Utilitech kept on falling out of the cans. The halo cans in the basement seem to hold them like a pitbull but they flickered. I've had them installed since Friday and they have worked well other than the occasional response to an switch that isn't on the same circuit (when dimmed, they some times turn off but only a few times so far). I did call smarthome and they were less than helpful. Claiming how these dimmers are the latest technology to which I questioned why they aren't made to work with LEDs which is also a current technology. Anyway, thanks for the help. Next time I'll try bulbs before rewiring

My house was built in 1956. It had metal boxes (and still does in some places) but somewhere along the line before I bought it several were replaced and the ground strap broken. Not to derail the discussion - this circuit is now properly grounded. I will check the specs for these light and switch and the lights and switch of the same brands in my bedroom that work fine.

Im using Sylvainia LEDs with the trim ring built in. Not sure if this is the exact model but very similar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B8O23Q6/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile The housings are Halo I just checked the box. They are 9 watts not 9.5 according to the box.

Everything has a neutral. Before it lacked a ground but I ran new wires. I have a somewhat older panel (13 years) and the ground and neutral buss bars are connected. The electrician who installed it mixed up the ground and neutrals on each of the buss bars. I have since split them as best I can but it probably doesn't make a difference since they are connected in the panel.

Well I put in a 50 watt halogen and that seems to have solved the issue. The (now single switch) responded smoothly to dimming and was unaffected by turning on the other basement insteon switch (no more flickering or ramping up to high then back to dim). I took out the halogen just to eliminate a bad LED light and it was back to flickering when using other insteon. Same when I put the LED back in. The total wattage is 38 watts with the LEDs. Is this below some insteon threshold? My old x10 switch worked fine on half the wattage. Are there other options rather than keeping in a halogen (too much heat and wattage) as these lights will stay on often? In a worst case scenario I could install another LED light but the 4 in the room makes it like the sun. 5 and I would have to put on sunglasses. Lol. Edit - I will put everything back together (switches, other feeds connected, etc) and run the test again when I get time.

I will try when I get home. I would be interested to see if that works as the wattage is 19 less than the bedroom with similar lights (4 vs 6).

More info. I rewired and removed the outlet and bathroom light that were fed off of this circut. Performance was the same. I then removed the switch at the top of the stairs and had just the bottom switch wired. Same. I swapped the switch to rule out a faulty switch and it didn't help. The flickering can be replicated by turning on another insteon switch in a different part of the basement which is on a different circuit. If I dim the lights in question then turn on the other basement light it will cause these lights to go to full power and then dim back. I'm tempted to put halogen lights in to see if the behavior changes. Any thoughts are appreciated.

I measured the voltage at all the wires and everything seems right, sans the 14/2 wire that feeds the lights in the bathroom (and other outlet) from switch 1. As mentioned, that cable is connected to the power at switchbox 1 (top) and goes to feed the outlet in the living room and downstairs bathroom (burried behind sheetrock so I don't know the route). When I test the power wire at the bathroom light with the neutral in the same cable it reads 120v. However, when I test the power wire and the neutral from the outlet that controls that light I get ~80 volts. Not sure why?

I've finally got some time to mess with it today so I will post results. I did find something strange though. In the wires for the top switch box that "go on to power a light and outlet in other rooms". One of those rooms is a bathroom light. On that light I have 14/2 cable coming in and it measures 120 volts across the white and black. There is another 14/3 wire that goes to a switch and when I use the hot wire from the 14/2 to either the white or the black of the 14/3 I'm getting 86 volts. On the lighted tester it doesn't light up but read voltage on the multimeter.

Actually, I beleive the three wire in question starts at the florecent light - I will update tomight. When it reaches light 4 it is just to house the connections. The red wire is capped. The 14/2 wire at light 4 comes from light 3 and is connected to the wires of that light. It is not connected to any of the wires from the 14/3. The switch at the top is #1 and the switch at the bottom is #2. 2 controls the load. I will take everything apart this weekend and verify voltage as requested. I am curious though, what do you think the cause of the flicker could be? It would be helpful to know the end game when doing testing.

Here's the diagram. Forgive the crudeness but it is done in PowerPoint. The wire nuts are where connections are made. For simplicity, I did not include ground wires but they are there. The first connection of the 14/2 to the 14/3 is right past the wall in the junction box of light #4. The red wire is not used. The switch at the bottom is what controls the load. The switch at the top is linked to the bottom switch via programming. I've noticed some slight flickering occasionally as well. Lights all work sans the intermittent choppiness when turning off or on from the top switch (and the aforementioned flickering). I have 6 of these same LED lights (Sylvania) on another setup of the same switch (2477) in my bedroom (though the switch is a few years older and may be an older revision). The lights in my bedroom are problem free (only one switch in that setup). It's late so hopefully I did this correctly from memory. Let me know if you have any questions!

I'm going to do a diagram when I get home. And yes, I learned about the multi meter vs light up meter- previously the 14/2 that went to the other light and outlet had the neutral tied to another circuits neutral. Had an electrician figure that out.

Where should the black wire on switch 2 be connected for your test? I see your point though, power is at switch 1 and the red wire going to switch 2 is connected to the load wire to the lights so it should work. Possible I missed something last night so I will try again tonight. I ran the wires and they were tested using one of those light up testers (and a multi meter). I made changes via the labels I made on the wire sheathing last night. The wires in this circuit were originally ungrounded (no ground wire) and had only one switch controlling one light so I replaced the wires. The full path of the new wires is as so (I will try to make a diagram when I get home): - the circut has a 14/2 wire going to a junction box for a florecent light - this wire powers that light (with a single switch) and has a 14/3 wire going to the last (4th of the above mentioned setup) light in the next room. The red is capped off and it is using the junction box of this light just as a junction box. That 14/3 wire goes to switch #1. - At switch #1 the 14/3 wire (with red capped) provides power to the switch as well as another 14/2 wire that goes on to power an outlet and light in another room (the path of those wires are undetermined as they are behind sheetrock and perhaps go into the attic - another 14/3 (with red capped) goes from switch box 1 to switchbox 2 -switchbox 2 is fed from the black wire on the 14/3 from box 1, and has another 14/2 that goes to the first light -each light is connected to the next light until the wire ends in light #4. This is the same junction box mentioned above where the power for switch one is connected. Last night I wired as you described. I will try again tonight and diagram the plan.

I drew a diagram of the new wiring configuration and it appears something is missing at switch 2. The black wire from that switch is not mentioned and is disconnected. Should the black wire be connected?

I just rewired the switches. To confirm, , switch #1 has the black wire connected to power. The red wire is connected to the red wire that goes to switch 2. At switch 2, the red wire on the switch is capped, the red wire from switch box 1 is connected to the black lead of the fixture, the black wire on the switch is also disconnected (should it be for this test?) Switch 1 has power but does not control the light, switch 2 has no power (not connected).