ryanmead83

I just did this myself, it's very easy. Here's from the KeypadLinc manual (http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/2486D.pdf) Changing Between 6 and 8 Button Configurations Changing to 6-Button Configuration 1) Replace the 8-button plate with the 6-button plate - Attach the change-out plate to the switch body by aligning the tabs and snapping into place 2) Gently pull the Set button out as far as it will go 3) Wait 10 seconds 4) While simultaneously holding the On and Off buttons, carefully push the Set button back in, flush with the trim frame 5) Once the Set button is pushed in, continue holding the On and Off buttons for 3 seconds, and then release KeypadLinc will (Beep) KeypadLinc is now in 6 Button Mode Changing to 8-Button Configuration 1) Replace the 6-button plate with the 8-button plate - Attach the change-out plate to the switch body by aligning the tabs and snapping into place 2) Gently pull the Set button out as far as it will go 3) Wait 10 seconds 4) While simultaneously holding the On/Off (upper left-most) button and the H button, carefully press the Set button back in flush with the trim frame 5) Once the Set button is pushed in, continue holding the On/Off button and H buttons for 3 seconds, and then release KeypadLinc will (Beep) KeypadLinc is now in 8 Button Mode It's weird that you can't change it in the ISY since it's possible to do it from a controller. Indigo lets you change them on it without having to do any of the above.

You're really big on home automation, and you just have Hue, Sonos and a couple SwitchLinc's? Just kidding couldn't resist. If that's really into automation then consider me an addict haha.

Thanks Michel, seems to be fine now haven't had any issues but wanted to provide in case it helps you with any 5.0 bugs.

Hi Michel just sent it to you, hope that helps. Mentioned in my email as well that the log might show a lot of start and stop (didn't look in detail). Was having major issues with my network so was restarting it often to troubleshoot. Turned out was a faulty GU10 light bulb, which after being removed brought the whole network back up. So normally it wouldn't be power cycling that often.

Well my house is 3 stories and the laundry room is down in the basement, so no I can't actually hear the buzzer unless I'm in the basement as it's not a buzzer but more of a chime or song it plays. The issue isn't hearing it as I'm downstairs often or I just know it's done as I rarely put a load in and totally forget about it. It's more I put off taking it out of the dryer and folding it all the time, so wanted a reminder that doesn't let up until I get my butt in gear to do it. I work from home as well so most times I hear it go off, but I'll be on a work call and then that goes another 40 mins and I forget about the dryer. Like I said it's not critical, just seems to come up a lot on forums so thought I'd see if there was an easy way to do it, as I don't mind spending $100-150 or so for notification capability, as long as it doesn't mean hacking together something as I prefer to buy a device designed for the task. Figured I'd check in case I missed a "WasherLinc" or "DryerLinc" type device. Isn't all of home automation a solution in search of a problem? I mean when I look at my house, there's nothing that the ISY does that I couldn't do before, it just makes it easier. It's just light timers, motion sensors, 3-way switches and so on, all of which can easily be done by just walking across the room to the light switch, or with a $1 lamp timer from the dollar store. There's no programs in my home that I'd ever have to rely on (like having it lock doors or turn down the heat) as I don't find it reliable enough.

Great thank you so much! Kind of funny wanting this, I always see people discuss it and think to myself who really doesn't know when the washer is done? But I'm realizing that's not the issue, I know full well it is done, I just need a text every 5 minutes to force myself up from whatever I'm doing and throw it in the dryer lol.

Thanks everyone, sounds like more work than it's worth lol. The one for the washer might not be too bad, as the cycles I thought might mess with it as well, so would really depend on how they work, would have to run it through one and see. I figure even if it does pause during the cycles, I'll just do something like if it's higher than 0 or whatever it is when off, set a variable to 1 indicating it is running. If it drops to 0 or whatever off is, set the variable to 2, wait 5 or 10 minutes and then send notification. That way if it does pause for a few minutes, the variable will be set to 1 and the timer starts to send notification. Few minutes later if it starts up again, variable goes back to 0 and if statement is no longer true. I don't really need instant real time, even if it's 10-15 minutes after it finishes. I just want it to notify me over and over and over and over until motion is detected in the laundry room lol. The dryer is more tricky since it's the huge 240v. It's nothing that I desperately need, just thought there might be devices already in existence made for this. Washer is more the important one as I hate forgetting clothes in there, but be nice to do dryer as well but not as big of an issue.

Does it not work by having the appliance plug into it, and then into the outlet though? The dryer is that huge type of plug not the normal wall one so it was more the dryer I wasn't sure how it would work. Thought maybe it would almost have to be like one of the whole home Z-Wave type ones I've seen where they clamp over the mains, but instead over the dryer if something like that exists.

I feel like this is probably available on most higher end machines but mine are only a few years old so won't be replacing them any time soon. Was wondering if there's any way to monitor them and notify myself when they are done? For the washer I had thought of using a power meter plug in, either Insteon or a Z-Wave one, and when the out goes from whatever to nothing, I know it's done. The dryer though uses that huge I think 240 power adapter and I've never seen any devices that look like that in terms of energy monitors. I don't want this bad enough that I'd do tricks or whatever to make it work, like using sensors or weird wiring to make it work. Just wondering if there's a plug and play way to do it, ideally using Z-Wave. If not no biggie at all, thanks!

Thanks everyone! Yes aartech.ca is my go to, they are super fast usually get everything in 1-2 days. They are in Oshawa, there's been a few times I've checked to see if it's worth driving over to pick something up but it's still almost an hour from downtown Toronto so not worth it. Amazon is my go to since returns as super easy with no restocking fee or return shipping fee and I normally do same day delivery, but if they don't carry something then I go to Aartech. I had thought before about doing the sensor on fully open but then figured it's less reliable as door could be open 3 feet and you'd think it was closed. Finding a sensor won't be that hard though there's lots of options, just have to also see how worth it it is. I bought the Garage IOLinc over a year ago but really never use it and was going to sell it. After I put my alarm in I remembered that most sensors for it were super cheap, the wired ones like $3-5 for many. So thought maybe they would be the same and figured if it's just a few bucks to make the door opener a bit more useful for me I'd keep it. If it will be $20+ I'll have to see. Not that that breaks the bank or anything, it's more just nice to have as we rarely really park in the garage.

Hi Michel, that's correct.

I use Windows 10 and haven't had any issues. There's 2 ways to do it: 1) IE is still on Windows 10. Just click start and type Internet Explorer, that's easiest way, then access the ISY at http://IP/admin. IP being your ISYs IP. 2) If you go to the current releases page on here and go to the one that matches the firmware you have, just click the link there to download the admin console. That installs it as an application on your computer to access it like a Desktop app. I use both ways depending where I am, but using IE always works. One tip I find is when you open IE, open a second tab and then launch the ISY. Reason for that is because if the ISY admin console closes, it closes the IE tab that launched it as well, so if you have just 1 tab open then it closes all of IE forcing you to open it again if you need to log back in (like if you put your laptop to sleep etc). Opening a new tab will close that one, keeping IE open. Just another reason to get rid of Java, it's going the way of the dinosaurs! I've yet to see anything else that uses it. Even when you install it it's like "Install the Ask toolbar!" "Install Yahoo Search!" it's like downloading some shifty spyware filled program like uTorrent, having all the add ons checked off by default.

Looks like that Seco-Larm one is $77 plus $30 shipping on Amazon.ca lol what a joke. Not sold by Amazon though which is why. Isn't reversing the logic a problem with the way it is now vs using the proper sensor? I remember there's a setting to swap them so that they do show properly, but then at 3am the query messes that up. Is that what you're referring to Larry? Or do you mean I'd have that problem regardless of if I use a NC vs NO type sensor?

Haha thanks makes sense! It works now but just figure it would be more reliable I think having a sensor that shows On when the door is open vs closed as less programs required if using it with a KPL.

I probably have the term backwards but I bought the Garage IOLinc over a year ago but really never used it mainly because the issue is when the door is closed, the system shows it as "On", so makes it a pain when putting it in scenes. I vaguely remember someone telling me I can change the sensor but I never did as I figured it would be expensive. Now that I've installed my alarm I know more about normally open, normally closed etc. Might have the terms reversed but sounds like mine is normally open since to me it should say ON when the door is open. If I want to swap it, does that mean I can just buy the same type of $5 2 wire sensor I'd be using for my alarm, the magnetic contact type one? Or do I have to change wiring on the IOLinc as well? Or do I even need another sensor? Would something like this work? https://www.aartech.ca/product/00/AMS-37/Amseco-Industrial-Surface-Contact-2-Inch-Gap-Gray Thanks!