jeshab

I actually looked into that option but I live in an apartment so the smoke alarm hard wire system is not exposed and therefore it makes it hard to implement cleanly. Another option is to use one open/close sensor for each module and use the external circuit so you wouldn't have to rely on an AC power source. In the end, I think, for my case, the listening detector is a good comprise for the short term until I have to replace all detectors. Update Another option in the listening detector category, I just found out Wyze cameras can also detect smoke/carbon monoxide alarms and are well integrated with IFTTT.

No worries. I think I have enough information. Based on your feedback it seems to me that the First Alert detector is just triggered a simple alert when it senses a signal on the Kidde hardwired travel wire and I would need to upgrade all my smoke detectors to First Alert ones in order to take advantage of the different notifications that the Insteon Smoke Bridge supports. I may go for the RemoteLync approach in the meantime, since you can buy these monitors for $30 on eBay and will move towards the smoke bridge, if no better solution by then, once my detectors are up for replacement in 3 years. Thanks again for your help.

Is the test alarm coming as a test notification from the smoke bridge? If this is the case, that should be a good sign that a CO alarm would be notified as so.

What about the other alarm types? I will assume that low battery and test alarms from the Kidde detectors aren't propagated when comparing to how an integrated First Alert OneLink interconnected network works.

I am actually planning to implement the solution above. My only question is if the First Alert smoke detector can determine the difference alarms (CO, smoke, test, low battery) coming from the Kidde interconnected network, in line to the different channels available on the Insteon smoke bridge. My understanding is that the Kiddle devices send different signal types based on the triggered alarm.

I am trying to determine if I can use one micro dimmer module to control a light wired exactly as shown in the 4-way switch diagram #1 above. Based on that diagram, my understanding is the micro dimmer should be installed on the last switch, which has the load, but a proper line to power the unit would be missing in that location, making it hard to use a micro dimmer in that type of setup. Is my assumption correct or am I missing something? I understand that I can replace my current switches with SwitchLinc to get this to work but I would like to keep my existing switches for the time being.