Gouldc

i installed the garage link today and after a couple hours of troubleshooting I have uncovered the requirement for a dry contact: http://www.aaaremotes.com/genie-38013r-contact-adaptor.html#.VocUkzbQzDI Does anyone have any experience with this? Do I simply put this between the Insteon and the opener motor?

Does NodeLink work with ISY version 4.x or only 5? Unless I'm just missing something simple here, all that I see relative to humidity is the current indoor reading not set point.

Thanks Paul, that certainly gets me going. I now have all of the variables defined that I see myself using in the near future and the values are being populated into ISY accurately. One thing that isn't clear is the humidity set point. I don't see within VenLink a humidity set point. I have a cool and heat set point and a humidity reading but no set point.

Happy to report a successful install. Next battle is configuring VenLink. Running on a Mac for now but will eventually move it to my Unraid NAS. I have the web server up and running but am at a loss trying to find a VenLink how-to. Anyone with a bookmark handy?

Sorry guys, didn't receive a notification on your responses. Larry, the humidifier is attached to the cold air return and is ducted into the heat run. Paul, it is the colortouch and I have set the auxiliary port to humidifier. I didn't know about the test setting, I will wire and test. Thanks!

Looking for some quick guidance on wiring a humidifier. I have replaced my stand alone humidistat with a Venstar. The old humidistat had two wires, one to W1 on the other to the humidifier. I suspect I only need to connect the one wire from the Venstar AUX to the humidifier and no longer require the second that runs to W1. Just looking for validation. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Larry. I've monkeyed around with link button to see if that sorts things out. I'll know at sunset. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The light interfering was a thought but I've moved the sensor to a number of different locations with the same result. Replaced battery no luck. I'm thinking it could be defective.

I've recently noticed some strange motion sensor behavior that I'd like to run by the experts here. Very basic MS/outlet setup and has been working for a few weeks now. The outlet in the scene has a lamp connected to it, the MS is wall mounted directly above the controlled outlet about 8 feet. Shortly after added another hard wired outlet on an exterior wall to control the some front yard Christmas decorations I notice the rapid LED blink on the MS. I understand this means the sensor's inability to reach another device in it's link table. The trouble is the MS is right above the device it is controlling. If I move the MS 10-15 feet the blinking seems to stop. Could this be an interference thing? Could this be related to related to the outdoor outlet?

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, my sanity is slowly returning; a sensor is a scene.

Not sure why this is hurting my head so much. So, in the above example: Then In scene 'master bedroom motion' set 'master bedroom lamp 5% (on level); the program is indeed setting the scene on level to 5% however the lamp is actually coming on at the device configured 40%. How would I set the sensor to 5% within the above program; the only device I see that I can modify is the lamp. Also, using the scene turns the light on regardless of the time frame specified in the program. Regarding the off time, I have the sensor setup to receive commands only. My understanding was with that setting the lamp will not respond to "off" from the sensor. This would let me adjust the on time based on the situation/program. I'm hoping the attached screenshots will help to articulate (I have modified the run time for testing). Seems like a really simple concept that I'm missing here; wouldn't be the first time.

An interesting approach Larry, one that might work for me. So, if a lamp and motion sensor are in a scene the sensor will always trigger a lamp on when the sensor sees motion. I could use the 'In Scene' during sleep hours to set the on rate of the scene to 0%. So, this is the new program but the on rate of the lamp is still 100% If from sunset to 10:00 pm (thanks Stu!) Then In scene 'master bedroom motion' set 'master bedroom lamp' 5% (on level) wait 5 minutes Set scene 'master bedroom motion' off Else - no actions

Hey Teken, that's essentially what I've baked but am using two variables, from sunset to bedtime. $sunset set to 1 at dusk and $bedtime set to 1 at a pre-determined time. The challenge/question I have is; is there any way to disable the trigger of the motion sensor between a certain timeframe so that I can call a scene vs. directly controlling the lamp with a program.

I have what should be a very easy problem to solve, just can't find the right approach. I have a simple setup with a lamp and motion sensor. Motion sensor control turns on, turn on the lamp, wait x minutes then turn off. The challenge is I do not want the motion sensor to turn the lamp on after we've gone to bed. I have accomplished this with a simple program: If Control 'master bedroom sensor' is switched on And $sunset is 1 And $bedtime is not 1 Then Set 'Master bedroom lamp' on Wait 15 minutes Set 'Master bedroom lamp' off Else - No actions $sunset and $bedtime are integer variables as they are a simple validation of condition, not triggering the event; that is left to the sensor. This works fine but the lag between the sensor turning on and the lamp responding is pretty noticeable when you walk into the room. I understand that a scene will be much faster but; when linked in a scene I cannot turn the sensor off during a specific time. If we roll in our sleep, the side lamp turns on and I get a shot to the shin from a less than thrilled wife.

No argument there Stu! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sometimes simplicity scares us. I was on the phone with my father last night as well. Although he is not a licensed electrician he is very accomplished in the area. He took him a very long time to accept that the control signalling between the switches is accomplished through logic, not a hard wire. He kept referencing 3-way wiring diagrams online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree on all fronts. The fixture was dropped in the beginning just missed one of the two lie to 2 separate lamps within the fixture. Many lessons learned here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A million thanks. I can't imagine how challenging it is trying to help with a brutal description of the problem and a few pictures. I took another look at the fixture wiring. There are two lamps and I missed the black wire to one of them. I ended up connecting that fixture wire to the bundle of hot wires, not the load control wire from the switch, essentially leaving it on all of the time. I have now linked both switches and everything appears to be functioning normally. Whew, my (I mean our) first and likely let 3 way switch! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay guys, the marathon continues. I did find a mid wire in the fixture. The current state is this; switch one in the double gang has the line wire connected to black and the load wire connected to red. At the fixture all black is connected and all white is connected as well as the red from switch one connected to black. Switch two has white and black connected to the fixture white and black. The problem I now have is the light will not shut off. This makes sense to me as the load and line connections from the insteon are now attached at the fixture. With the load wire connected to black at the fixture it is not controlling on and off. Make sense? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going to drop the fixture and have a look as there's some funky stuff going on. The way I see things connected right now is the line and load from the first switch is essentially tied together at the fixture. The hot and neutral from the second switch are tied to the first switch via the fixture When I power off the first switch the second switch leds activate for a minute or two the shut off for a minute or two before powering on again. I'll report back I after I've dropped the fixture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Larry. Button pushed in so we're good there. When you say check it with a hard switch do you mean install a normal switch in the single gang? I do have a voltmeter and a general knowledge of electronics. I can check my resistance from box to box. As I understand it white and black should connected to both switches therefore resistance between the white and black from box to box should be roughly nil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the small clear button correct? I have another switch that I'll through in to rule out defect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You bet, breaker on and the light working. I'll have to search a little on the isolation switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Changes have been made at the fixture, all black to black, white to white and red from the double gangs to black at the fixture. Isolation tab at the bottom of the switchlinc? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk