Nakynaw

I am a noob returning to my home automation system 6 years after putting it in place when I built my house. I now have to replace my Milock (insteon) door lock system and it's discontinued. I have read the forum and decided to go for Schlage with Z-wave. Instead of simply buying the module, I bought a Polisy. ( I have plans to expand my system with NS) Then, I was about to order the Schlage Door lock and found that many people give it bad reviews saying it does not work in Canada... It is not clear for what system they are talking, but can someone confirm that it works with UD and my set up mentioned in the title? Thanks!

Hi everyone, I thought I would share my experience in case it happens to other people, especially since Michel told me that it does not happen very often. About 2 month ago, when asking for my morning scene to Google Home Mini, it went on but the lights did not lit. I asked to open them, and it worked. No biggy. But as the days were going by, there were more and more communication errors. But it would eventually work after repeating the commands once or twice. On moth later, the communication was very unreliable. Unfortunately, I was super busy with work, family and personal stuff. Si it took at least 6 weeks before I could start to investigate. I was super happy to receive a super fast answer from Michel K. when I created a ticket for that. First, we verified that It was not the Home app, the GHM or the UD protal that were causing problems. I had already reset all that (unlinking from UD, emptying cache, relinking, etc.) and it did not change anything. So I opened the admin console and tried a couple of commands. It was also working randomly. Same with UDajax. So It seems like it was the PLM, but nothing had changed with it when it started doing the problem, and the fact that the problem was intermittent was unusual according to Michel. I still tried to move it elsewhere (of course, on it's own power outlet without extension cords or splitter. Close to very strong Wifi router. Nothing changed. We thought it could be «noise» on the line, but no new devices were installed in the house when it started, and why would it be progressively getting worst, regardless of where the PLM was plugged... I ordered a new PLM, and that was it. After resting the devices status, everything works alright. In fact, it seems, after reading many of your posts about the poor reliability of the PLM, that I was lucky to have it working for 5 years! I went from V2.0 to V2.7, hoping it will be good for awhile. Good luck to you all!

Hi, About 5 years ago, I installed a MiLocks door lock kit. Since I was busy with home improvements, I did not immediately install the required add-on gadget to control it with ISY... By the time I wanted to do so, it was not available anymore. Now, only 5 years after the installation, some buttons need to be pushed way too hard to work and the system is not reliable anymore. So, time has passed, now we have Google Home integrated with the ISY944 and many insteon devices. I would really appreciate if anyone could recommend a door lock kit that would be reliable and easy to control and integrate with the hardware that we have. Any suggestions of set up that you have and that satisfies you? I join a picture of the actual kit I have, since I will need the same type of hardware to replace it. Thank you!

Thx everyone. I brought the first extension in a metal heavy duty box for exterior plugs. Fed another box beside it with the In-line dimmer connected to the lamp. It works great, it's secure and it's ready to feed my next exterior plugged-in chrome cast speaker.

About 3 or 4 years ago, I installed a Milocks kit on our new front door. At that time, I did not install the lock controller, I was waiting to complete my set up first, with the door bell and camera, etc.. Now that the Ring doorbell is compatible with ISY, I just ordered one. And now I would be interested to unlock the door at range, since I will be answering the door at distance... But I just found out that there is no more specific system sold for Insteon. So, anyone know what can be done? Is there still a place to buy a lock controller? (Are they discontinued because they could be easily hacked?) Any help would be very appreciated!

Wow. Thx Jec6613! It will be more trouble, but the second option seems like what it should be. I'll cut the cord of the light at one foot of the plug, bring all the wires in in a sealed junction box with the in line dimmer and leave it plugged as it is on the end of the cord, to keep the other things untouched at the extension. Thx for you time guys, very appreciated!

Thx for your answers! I had a Lamplinc dimmer in stock, I was to try it with some kind of protection against water, but it's only a two holes plug, and my lamp is connect to a 3 pins. My light is actually connected to an extension, which is also connected to an extension with other things that can't be dimmed (both extension are much more heavy duty than needed and winter proof). So, the solutions with the inline module to put in an electric box would be complicated... You guys know any products compatible with ISY like the remote control plug in, but dimmer instead of just on/off? Maybe in Zwave? Or maybe a smart bulb?

Hi, We just finished building an new patio (500sf) with a dinning table under a covered pergola. Just bought a suspended light that I would like to be able to use with ISY, and be able to dim the light with scenes. I live in Montreal, Quebec. So we have rain, humidity, snow, etc. But the device would be under the UV protecting polymer roof. Any suggestions of device would be appreciated. Because I only see a on/off exterior switch module...

Thanks guys, First, it's not a constant buzzing sound. It's more like a fast double beep, but not the cute one. One that seems to say : something is wrong. Then, I was about to try the hard resetting. But before I did, I updated a couple of scenes that inflicted on the settings of the Keypad. And when I went to test the keypad triggers of these scenes, I noticed that it stopped doing the weird noise... Seems like I might never know what was wrong. Maybe, by changing the scenes related to the keypad, the controller did a soft reset just by updating the links? Also, two questions came up while updating my scenes : when you click on the scene name in the left menu, it shows every devices added to the scene. Is it not that way that you set up the scene? It's what I did first and it didn't work. I had to redo it all by clicking on the controller device in the sublist under the scene name... So, what's the first menu for? Also, I wanted to duplicate a scene (exiting from the front door instead of exiting by the garage). To create the second scene, I wanted to copy the settings of the first one and only make one or two changes... I thought that the option "copy scenes attributes" was for that, but when I checked the box, it did nothing... Can you guys tell me where to read to understand these two things?

Hi everyone, Yesterday, we've had a 30 minutes shortage of electricity. It's not the first time, but it's the first time that it seems to have messed with my keypad-8. Strangely, it seems to work flawlessly, both physically and by the controller. But when I press any buttons, it makes that noise which seems to indicate an error. Looked in the troubleshooting part of the item's manual, and found nothing about that kind of noise. Anyone has a clue about what could be happening? Any solutions other than making an hard reset of the keypad? And if I need to, will I be able to rewrite in a simple way the many scenes that are related to the keypad? Tanks in advance for any advices.

Stusviews, can you please direct me to a source of information about those Micro Modules?

Unfortunately not. Otherwise I would not have been asking this question in the first place. As explained in my previous reply. It is because they are apart and misplaced by the electrician that I was wondering about this possibility. I also am aware that I can use an APP to control it. But that is not what I wanted to do. Thanks.

Thanks again for your time. Indeed, I am not asking how to set a virtual 3-way. It is easy to do so with the creation of a scene, as said earlier. What I was hoping for, is to set dimmer A to control dimmer B, and for dimmer B to control dimmer A. A is physically connected to the exterior lights in the backyards. B is connected to the interior garage lights. The problem is that A is by the garage door, and B is placed closer to the backyard access... I know that if I use an APP or the ISY portal, I can name the switches the way I want. But I would like those switches to emulate the other one, physically.

I think Larryllix understood what I meant. I was hoping to use ISY to program the dimmers in such a way that they would behave physically like if they had been switched one for the other. But I guess I am daydreaming. Thanks for your answers guys.

There's two dimmers (Insteon 2477d) that were connected physically to the electrical wires by my electrician, but they have been misplaced... Is it possible to use the controller to make dimmer A control dimmer B and dimmer B control dimmer A? So basically, switching the switch without rewiring... Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all your great inputs. So, basically, it seems like a wireless thermostat from Insteon installed upstairs would be the best idea? It would send information to the controller (ISY), and then, if need be, and depending on how I program my stuff, ISY could control the T1900 of the first floor - which is wired to the HVAC system - and send a «heat» command ? As you guys said, the problem of overheating if the system fails should not scare me. If ISY if down, then the t1900 will stop the heating cause it will have reached the setpoint. If it is up, I will make sure the program is not simply a «turn heat on» command but a command to heat until another setpoint is reached on the second floor wireless thermostat. Right? Another question : I programmed the schedule of the t1900 directly on the device. It seems much more detailed than what I can do on the ISY Dashboard... Am i not right? Just to start the fan from the java app from the phone seems to interfere with everything from the thermostat... Any advise on the subject if welcome. Thanks again.

@Stusviews Thanks for the explanation. At first, it did not work : because I added the keypad buttons to the scene and set them to 0%. When using the console, it worked. When using the controller button, it worked, but lit the led of all keypad buttons! Then, from the scrolling down menu of the scene, in the controller button (red) submenu I set the other keypad buttons to 0% too. And it works. How come I need to program the scene, and then program it again in the sub menu of the controller button? @Larryllix Yeah, it seems like that I'll be okay!

Hi guys & gals, I have a Venstar T1900 controlling the heat pump and the gaz furnace. The thing is, it's at the rez de chaussé, and on the second floor it's often 2 degrees colder because of the HRV blowing cold air. What would be the cheapest way to make ISY send a signal to the main thermostat to start heating if the second floor gets colder than the temperature setpoint? Thanks!

That's a good idea. Although, wouldn't I need to add a one second wait time or something? Because, if a light is set to open to 50% on C , and B is suppose to open it at 100%. But closing B will send a closing message to the light, at the same time as opening C will send a message to the light to open at 50%, won't it bug? In any cases, I fond a way that seems to work. First, the scene button are set to non-toggle and just signal "On". And, the led behind the buttons is set to off. So, it does not look weird when buttong are On and it works.

Wow. I will never mess with manual linking ever again. I first tried the restore option from the ISY menu. It did not work, the previous links where still active. Then I did the hard reset (pulling the set pin, then pushing it in until the long beep stops) It worked, my keypad was like when I opened the box, except it was still linked to the ISY. But, my scene were only working from the admin console, not working when pushing the buttons. I then redid the admin console restore. What I understand is that the manual restore erase every links, while the console restore repairs the links written in the controller. BUT, after that, when I pushed a keypad button, it just opened all the lights linked to it by the scene to the maximum (which is not my scene at all) I then notice that the scene was still written correctly in the console, but when clicking on the keypad button that acts as the controller of the scene in the list under the scene, it was set like that : everything at 100%. So basically, the controller was functioning properly, but the memory of the scene was erased from the device. I readjusted the levels, and now it works fine. There is just on more thing though : what toggle option should I use if I basically just want those keypad button to trigger a lighting pattern without needing to turn it off? I would rather press another button for the next scene. Example : we arrive home, we press B for the entire first floor to lit at dimmed levels. Then we start cooking, we press C for the kitchen lights to go at 100% without closing the living room and dining room lights. Then we dine, we want all the lights of the first floor to turn off and only the dining table light to be at 45%. Etc. If I do that, every keypad button is considered on, the led of the button is lit and if a presse another time those buttons, it turns everything off. I dont want my guests to have to go dark before I can switch to another scene... Thanks in advance for your precious help to a newby. I hope this thread will be usefull for one or two newcomers like me.

Thank you LeeG. It worked. Honestly, at the biggest font size, it is still hard to read, but much better.

Thank you Mwester. After watching and reading more informations, you made me realized that we better create the scenes with the Admin console, even though it is easy to do it locally. (except for my small problem mentioned on this thread) But now, I am wondering why the console does not detect the scenes programmed locally? Should I restore the devices to factory default and redo the scenes on the console to avoid conflicts? By example, I have a dimmer module for a lamp in my child's room, and I wanted to make a crosslink between the two devices. It worked. But when I use the console to control the wall dimmer, I see the led light move but it does not control the module. When I use the wall dimmer manually, it works... Can someone explain?

Hi everyone. Someone knows how to do this? I read the entire document for this 2334-222 8-buttons keypad from Insteon and it says to tap the keypad button we want as a responder. But when I do that, it stops the blinking of the green led from the keypad without the double beeps and it does not work. I seem to have once been able to link the two buttons, but it was by holding the on/off button for 6 secondes, which lit the lights of the living room, while I want those lights to be turned off when I press the «all off» scene button... Any help would be welcome. :/

Hart2hart, can you please tell me how to upgrade to those versions? The console that I was just offered to install today from the browser only offer font colors it seems. I tried Paulbates's idea, but there is no "compatibility" tab on the properties page of the icon...

Hi, After rebuilding entirely the house we bought a year ago, we replaced every switchs and dimmers with insteon's, along with thermostat and some other devices. I am finally at the installation part, and very new to it. So far, I found out that I need to use Firefox to get to the admin console, but then, my laptop is a 4k screen, and I barely can see what's written on the console. Instead of changing my laptop screen resolution every time I need to use the console, is there a way to change the zoom, or the size of the characters? Thanks in advance for suggestions. Edit : I don't know why, but changing screen resolution to a normal 1080p does not even help...