GuitarMan86

Agreed.... the 3 way and 4 way scenarios were/are a PITA. The on/off single switches are certainly easier. I had a set of Wiggys for testing which worked out fine...but I would rather have the pen tester (like Fluke) to make things easier with one touch.

Nope...that's what I mean. I am just getting started. Just created a seen for watching movies and setting ramp rate and dim etc. Cool stuff.....going to be addicting

I figured it out.... was to much of a load. Ok, all 10 dimmer switches installed and working correctly. Now to get to the controlling part! haha.....thank you all for you assistance. Once I figured out what I was doing wrong on the first set it seemed to get better from there

Received....thanks. I did notice that when testing. I am at the point where I have all locations done and wired correctly and connected to work accordingly. I am down to one 4 way switch which I have working correctly....however, one of the switches is quite warm/hot to the touch compared to the other two switches.

Figured it out.... had a couple of the neutrals mis-matched and therefore not lighting up the switch in this above scenario. Got the rest done except for one that I am diagnosing. It seems the power being routed to this one is also taking away power to the switch when the switch is turned off.....never turns back on. WIRES EVERYWHERE haha..... fun

Gave it another shot..... no luck. I am not getting power to either of the switches wired as mentioned above (believe I did it this way initially). Here is what it looks like just to show the match up with Box1 and Box2.

I believe I did just that as you describe.....I will try again to see if I am missing something. Will report back. Thank!

Understood....I have enough 2477d switches to cover the downstairs scenario. The red/white/black shown on switch one: red and white are part of the 3 wire going to box 2. The black wire from the 3 wire is being tied to 3 other black wires as the hot before it goes to box 2. The black wire tied to the switch in box 1 is going to the black and white pair for the light. The 3 wires tied to box 2 are all going night back to box 1. The only wire not pictured is the black which I mentioned above is tied to 3 other black wires as the load it seems.

Thanks for the replies..... here is a little more information to picture what was wired previously. I took a picture of Box 1 wiring and Box 2 wiring. Box 1 is the pic that has the 'black box' 3 way switch and box two has the paddle switch. Black wire on Box 1 pic (not shown) is tied to black wires to the right and feeds the black wire going to box 2. Black wire on Box 2 pic is 'hot' r/w/b from box 2 go back to box 1 and the black is then tied to load feed with 3 other black wires.

Hoping some of you may have some quick thoughts on a wiring dilemma I am running into trying to get a 2477d wired up properly on a 3 way switch that is wired up a little differently than a usually seen method. Summary: I have Box 1 labeled on the left (3 gang box with 2 other 3 way switches). I am working on the 3 way switch on the far left for that box. There are 3 black wires that are the load in this box that are tied together. One of these black wires is tied to the 3 wire going to box 2. So B/R/W (typically the traveler wires are going over to box 2 (pictured) and that Black wire is HOT. Box 2 is also a 3 gang box with a separate 3 way switch and another single switch (single switch is completed)...still have to wire the other 3 way. The 3 wires coming over from box 1 are wired as indicated (white/white, Insteon Red/Black hot, Insteon Black/Red traveler). Back to Box 1 I am trying to figure out what wires need to be tied (I have refered to page 11 in the 2477d manual showing the 3 way diagram). However, I am not able to get either 3 way switch to be powered in this scheme. Any thoughts are much appreciated. Will be posting on the Insteon Smart home groups as well if I don't figure it out soon. Thanks! *On a more positive note! I got my ISY994 and received my Amazon Echo and already have setup my ISY portal to control a Insteon Lamp link module with PLM all set up accordingly! Some progress at least haha

Pulled the trigger tonight on 10 total 2477d switches, a Serial PLM and a lamp module..... The 10 switches is only for downstairs. Uggghhhh..... Got to start somewhere And, also found out my Amazon Echo has shipped. Fun stuff ahead! ....I hope haha

One more question around the Insteon devices here.... One of the switches I wanted to replace (sooner or later) is the master bedroom light/ceiling fan which is a low/med/high fan control with a light dimmer (two circular switches in a one gang switch. Is the Insteon fan controller (sits in the fan housing) my only option here for a single dimmer/switch type of control for this scenario?

So, are these switches consuming a lot now? Am I going to see a huge change for the worse....confused. I thought these would be less costly with control and dimming etc.

I am assuming KPL means the keypad link modules? Strategically located where they can perform additional functionality? Makes sense....additional cost Mapping out my downstairs I came up with 9 Insteon 2477d switches to replace all 3ways.... Wonderful lol

haha....too funny My first project is to take care of my downstairs Theater room (which is also my office). I could use the motion detector in other areas of the home once I get there hah. That is one of the articles I also caught which provoked my topic here