FWIW, there doesn't *have* to be a neutral at the fixture (though common, I've certainly seen it where it's not), but there will be one hot and one neutral in some combination or both of the fixture and switch box (gotta make a path from hot to neutral somehow for the thing to work). In one of the boxes, though, there could only be a 2 wire line that completes the hot/neutral connection.
However, if the intent here is to put a fanlinc and/or micro module at the fixture AND a switch remotely to control it, the spot with the 2 wires could be re-connected such that one wire is hot, the other neutral (may already be a taped off white/black wire) which can power the device at that location. and the device at the other end will be powered by what is already there. Pair the switch to the fanlinc/micro module, and it will work properly. Further, the actual controlling switch doesn't need to be in the same place where it was, or even add another so it's multi-controlled (i.e. "three way").
If the 2-wire to one box is romex, it is likely already a white/black wire (as aforementioned, it could be taped off with black or red electrical tape). If it is in a conduit, it could be two (or combination of) black/red wires, but it may also be possible to pull a white wire through the conduit. Otherwise, make sure to tape off the wire that is neutral with white wire to indicate it is actually neutral.