theitprofessor

Perfect, yes they call it the Caseta Smart Hub now and there's a Pro version but yes same thing. Thanks, Bob

Can someone please confirm if wired Serena roller shades now work with the Caseta node server? Will I be able to totally control the shades via my Eisy? I’d like to make sure before I make a large investment in these shades. Thanks

You can disregard any of these weird PLM issues as they turned out to be the same cause and solution as this other issue I posted and solved. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/43050-iox-and-i3-insteon/

So disregard any of these issues I was asking about. It turns out it had more to do with a not perfect migration to Eisy and change out of the PLM. Most things worked OK but I had a gremlin or two in my network. By removing everything Insteon, resetting each Insteon device to factory default including the PLM, and putting it all back in, that resolved all of my anomalies. It was a lot of work (>300 Insteon & >100 Scenes) but worth it. Also, for the i3 Paddle and Keypad dimmer issues one of them has it's mode default to Dimmer and the other to Relay. You need to do a query on the device from the AC to see what it's actually set to and then you can write a change to the mode if necessary. You cannot trust what the setting/options say without a query first. Works flawlessly every time.

The comm delay I see with the i3 is from my Eisy to the device. Like simply turning something on or off. So basically it’s from my PLM to the i3. I even see a “system busy” sometimes from the AC. Which could just be me clicking the button too many times. I’m going try some more testing to see if I can pin down what may be causing these the delays. The weird part is it doesn’t happening to any of my non i3 devices, and I have a lot.

That’s the same thing I’m thinking but I’m seeing some funky comms I didn’t see with my old serial PLM. Not sure what it is but I’m looking at all the possibilities.

@paulbates Not sure if you knew this Paul but you can run the AC via IoX finder local over a site to site VPN tunnel or client VPN to any UD box. ISY, Polisy, Eisy, works great. I’ve done it from half way across the country. You just need to add the proper address line to IoX finder. You don’t need RDP. Direct connect without the need of a jump box.

I created a mobile test lab out of mine. I took some 2x4's and framed up a simulated mini house about 2' X 1'. Added 5 single gang junction boxes to it and 2 round electrical boxes with ceiling light fixtures and LED dimmable bulbs. In the single gangs I have different Insteon devices and one of them standard outlet with a PLM. I plugged my blue box Polisy into that. I got a 6' 14 gauge appliance plug wire and connected that to my mini house frame. I can test anything without needing to disrupt my existing house config or physically installing it in the house. All I need is a single standard wall outlet to power the whole thing and a network connection for the Polisy. I can test things on it in my existing house anywhere in it and it's small and light enough to take on the road. Even to somewhere which has nothing. I'm using it for Insteon now but it can be used for ZWave, Wifi, whatever devices you want to test.

Has anyone experienced communication/performance differences or reliability issues between using a Serial PLM vs. a USB PLM attached to the same IoX hardware? Or does anyone think one is better than the other and for what reason? You can skip anything about burnt out capacitors, that's not what I'm asking about. I know a lot of people have had issues in areas with flaky power. Fortunately I've never fried a PLM in 12 years, not one (knock on wood).

Oh I totally understand that but one of the first things I do when I put something new in is to make sure I’m on the latest version. So I started looking around to see how to find out what the latest version available is and how I would go about upgrading it if I wasn’t. Can’t find either one so I asked. Especially when I’m seeing issues. That’s where I start. I’m seeing huge communication delays with the i3 devices I don’t see with my non i3 devices.

One of the features of the i3 series is the devices are supposed to have field firmware upgrade capabilities. In fact, I think if your hub is an Insteon hub I guess it does this already. Of course, the Insteon devices prior to i3 can’t. I understand that. I’ve had them for 10 years myself. I was wondering if UDI was going to build this into IoX or will we have to have an Insteon hub just for firmware upgrades. That’s really a Mickey Mouse way of doing it but I’d take that over nothing at all. There must be an easier way.

I assume the answer to your question is yes but I won't know for sure until I try it. Later I will remove, do a factory reset on the paddle and keypad and try to add again, observe the behavior and post back here.

Thanks for giving me some ideas what to look for... # 3 Dimming I was looking at the mode via the AC. Interesting the difference between AC and UDM. So basically when you bring an i3 Keypad or Paddle (Switch) you get an extra object they call Flags which are basically all the Options for the device. A Keypad has 9 and a Paddle has 7. All of these Options are binary (only 2). In the AC the Mode option is either "Dimmer" or "Relay" all of the other options are "On" or "Off". In UDM all of the options are either "True" or "False" including Mode. My guess is UDI just hasn't got to labeling in UDM yet. I was able to get the dimmer to function but not the same way you did. I basically set Mode to "Relay" in the AC, and wrote changes. Then I changed it back to "Dimmer" and wrote changes. After doing this it started to work properly. The Mode was set to Dimmer when I first added it but apparently what's displayed in the AC is not accurate. So by changing it a couple times seems to have fixed it. # 2 Outlet I was able to get the Outlet to join but not the normal way I add devices. I normally use the AC, go to New Insteon Device, add the address and a name and that's all that's needed. But that just kept erroring out. So I put the Outlet in pairing mode with the set button, and then followed my same old procedure and that worked. You need to manually take to device out of pairing mode after it's been successfully added to the system. One thing I noticed differently in the AC is, normally Scenes and Controller only devices are in Blue and all other devices like legacy Outlets are in Pink/Red. With this i3 Outlet it came in as Blue. # 1 Firmware Updates Still no way I can see to do a firmware update. Additional Note: Communication to these new devices is very slow compared to all my older Insteon devices. I see a lot of system busy and long noticeable delays in the AC and with the actual condition on the devices.

Has anyone tried the new Insteon i3 devices with IoX 5.8 running on Eisy? I have and here's what I've run into so far. 1. There doesn't seem to be an option for doing any firmware updates. 2. I can't get the Outlet to join the network. I can find it but it errors out with "Cannot determine Insteon Device Type. 3. I have a Paddle and Keypad and I can't get a dimmable LED bulb to dim. Only on and off. And yes the options are set to dimmer. Anyone run into these issues? Can't find anything on a search. I can open up a support ticket but I wanted to see if this was something anyone else has experienced.

The key features/criteria for my resulting config is only one of my KPL button LEDs B,C, or D can be on at one time and it corresponds to a fan speed. If I press D it turns the fan on high. If I press B it not only turns the fan on low but it also turns the D button LED off. If I press any of the 3 buttons that was lit it not only turns that button's LED off but it also turns the fan off because none of the 3 buttons would be on. The same thing works with Alex voice commands now. By turning any of the 3 button/key scenes on or off with voice it not only sets the fan at the corresponding speed, or off, but it turns the corresponding button/key light on or off. This is so I can have visual confirmation of what my current condition is. I also have the KPL LEDs set at (off 3) and (on 6). This is so it's easy to see the keypad in the dark but not too bright and when a key is on there's a big enough difference to tell if it's on or off. All of this was always my criteria for interaction between the fan and the KPL and still is. Getting rid of the FanLinc made it more difficult to accomplish the same thing but I'm happy I found a way. I can think of no other way to program this with the required criteria.