epfunke

just looked at the aube unit. that has the 24volt transformer built in. so you can use that themostat you quoted, and hook that between the iolinc and the aube. Aube low voltage side (screw terminals) W to IOlinc Common, IOlink NO to thermostat W, Thermostat R to aube R. thermostat and heat active when the IOlinc is on Then connect the heater to the 240 side of the aube as labled on the device

It is my understanding that your heater is a 240 electric heater. so you will need a line voltage thermostat like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cadet-Double-Pole-22-Amp-120-Volt-240-Volt-Wall-Mount-Mechanical-Non-programmable-Thermostat-in-White-T522-W/303733757 does the heater have a built in thermostat? what is the model of your heater

If you connect the output of the contactor (controlled by iolinc)to the input of the thermostat (can be old school mechanical) and the output of the thermostat to the heater.... In order for the Heater to receive power, 1. The contactor controlled by iolinc must be on. AND the room has to be below your set temperature. This configuration will only apply power when you want it, and the room is actually cold enough to need heat

If you go the route of the iolink control, I would at least have an old school thermostat in line with the heater, set to your desired temperature. save energy by not overheating the room, and if something failed and the iolink did not turn off at least the themostat would limit the room temperature to a nominal temp and not a runaway temperature.

Just a quick FYI I just purchased a PLM off amazon and received V2.5 hardware. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X8W4SI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, I downloaded and also tested that link. Both worked and i can access ISY without the broadband connection

Yes I am using launcher, I will request the console for my firmware. Thanks for clarifying this

Today we were having outages with our ISP, Cable modem was off line. While we were offline I attempted to log into the admin console on ISY but was unable to. I would click on the start.jnlp file and the ISY finder would launch, I finds my ISY correct IP address displayed, but when i clicked on the admin console, I got nothing. I am on 5.0.16C. and could ping my isy while it was unresponsive. As soon as the ISP connection was back, I was able to access the admin console. and everything was back to normal. Any ideas of where to look so I can fix this so I can get to the admin console when I do not have access to public internet. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. If this has already been covered can you point me to the thread and i will start with any possible solutions there Thanks

You can use just about any insteon switch to turn on an appropriately sized contactor to turn on your heat. Just choose a contactor that has a 120v coil I have just that setup on my shop dust collector. Mounted the micro module right in large junction box with contactor. works like a charm

I have not re-labeled one in a while. I think i used 1/2" tape? any size can work if it is too wide you can always trim with scissors. as far as placing it I use a pair of fine tweezers to line it up and then just press on it to secure.

I have had great luck using clear p-touch labels. their software allows you to import graphics too.

Glad you got it working, but would recommend a slightly different connection. I would connect the positive power terminal of the relay to an always on power source on your board, and the input connection, to the #1 led circuit. As you have it wired the led pin is supplying all the current for the relay, on not knowing the rating on that pin, it may fail eventually? the input terminal on the relay board will put essentially no load on that led pin.

now that I zoom in it looks like you traced that out and R63 is the resistor for that LED. Just solder to R14 on the side closest to the chip and you should be all set

you can also use one of these small relay boards to buffer the sensors output and provide the contact closure for the iolinc https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Channel-optocoupler-Support-Trigger/dp/B00LW15A4W/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+relay&qid=1602009072&sr=8-6 from what I can see from the picture, the one side of the LED appears to be grounded. and the other side jumps to the other side of the PCB, can you look at the other side of the board and follow that trace? you may find the series resistor on the other side of the board, maybe send another pic of the other side? and indicate where that led is on the other side so one can follow the trace. I would recommend soldering at the resistor it is more forgiving of heat than that tiny surface mount led

Great to hear progress. are the Uxcell filters the only ones in circuit right now?

Thanks. Let me know what you find when you open it. if you use just a relay, dont forget a reverse diode across the coil. I have seen little modules that have a little driver transistor, etc on a pcb with screw terminal Have a good trip

you would not connect inline with the led, but across the led and current limiting resistor. The led will have a series resistor to limit the current so if you can find the led and its associated resistor, try testing from the other side of this resistor to ground with a voltmeter and see what you get when the led is on vs off. if you find something like 5 or 9 or 12?? volts when on and 0 when off. then there a number of easy to use relay modules on amazon that will give you the contact closure

you can try the xpnr from hot to hot at the pump itself, it says it is rated for 240 vac. Neither hot is positive or negative, they are both ac 60 hz, 180 degrees out of phase, so with a meter you will measure 120 to ground / neutral, and 240 from hot to hot because of the phase difference. Connecting anything between the hots and the safety ground is not a good idea from a safety point of view, and would possibly trip your GFCI anyway you say it was working and then got progressively worse. any other changes in that time?

It is my understanding the xpnr is a two wire shunt type filter, it is connected across the circuit and the xpf is a three wire shunt and low pass that has a neural, and the load current passes thru the black and red leads. the core would be trial and error. the key is when you loop it it must loop in one direction. so if you are putting the entire cord thru the core you may have to remove the plug. key is loops have to be in one direction, if looking at the donunts face and you put the cord through the hole, for the next loop you need to go outside the ring and back through in the same direction as the first time. google ferrite core filters They also make snap on ferrites that are easier but i dont think they work as well but due to simplicity may be worth a try. either way the closer to the pump the better. as far as grounds i would inspect and reattach anything that looks suspect. make sure breakers are off if you disconnect any grounds to clean them as there could be small leakage currents. I would start with that old and corroded looking one.

Good morning the link for the voltage detection arduino in the previous post will not work, it is simply a voltage divider. the link that @gzaharposted look like it should work well.... Looks like it has adjustable input levels/ timeout, but may take some adjustment to make it work i looked at a picture of what may be you unit. is there an led that lights when motion is detected? not sure of your electronics knowledge, but maybe connect to that led and have a transistor drive a small relay, or the IOlink directly?

@pgershon thanks for the description and info about the layout, I now have a better picture of what you have, and @larryllix, you are absolutely correct just tune that am radio between stations, and it will receive the noise, and it may be so strong that will be hard to locate an exact source but is super helpful to diagnose as you turn loads on and off and the noise comes and goes.... but based on what we have I think you are correct it is the intelliflow, and after looking at that pump online looks like the motor speed control is built right into the pump. The reason i talked about the am radio was i did not know if that jandy box was a speed control of some sort but now understand that is all part of the pump itself Good news is we dont have to filter a 70 amp load, just 20amp for that single pump. you already tried the xnf in the jandy box and that did not cure it, so you already own these, I would put those back in the jandy. based on knowing the noise is coming from that pump any way of trying the xpnr filters right at the pump itself? just asking as I dont know if there is room in the junction box on the pump, or just hooking up there as a test? at the pump is there room for a ferrite core? amazon 4ea 38X19X13mm toroid transformer core noise filter ferrite core chokes ferrite bead toroidal ferrite ring loop the vires through the core as many times as possible. is this a new installation, or something that has worked for a while and has degraded? Check that bonding grounds at pump are tight and not corroded? Hope this helps

What is the make / model of the sensor?

That filter may help. one key would be to keep that ground wire as short as possible

just so I am understanding things. (after a google search on Jandy box) that is the pump controller? so no insteon needs to get to it? and it is on a 70A Breaker? so the xpf cant protect that circuit. Is that the same as the intelliflow you had mentioned having the xpf on in the original post. Any chance of a quick sketch showing the layout. with approximate distances? like Main house:------ 100 ft ----- :pool house panel: 20breaker---10 ft? -----Insteon device :pool house panel: 70a breaker- 15ft? ----- jandy box Some other thoughts... this noise is probably broadbanded with lots of harmonics, you can try a an AM radio tuned as low as it will go and see if you hear any interference when the pump is on vs off? try and use it as a sniffer? Is it the pump motor itself? or the controller? (my bet at this point) this may shed some light. Also if you have a receiver probe for a tone tracer, that may also pick up the noise and help locate it Or is the jandy box some other control and the intelliflow is the pump controller. Knowing more about the topology may shed some light on this

I have been following this thread and as an electrical engineer that has been using x10 and now insteon for years have been interested in this thread. After your last summary earlier today i re-read your original post to make sure i understood the topology. In re-reading the post the (sentence in bold above) i would want to confirm that the white wires from the filters were attached to a neutral and not just left disconnected. That filter has two functions, it blocks insteon / noise from passing from the black to the red leads, and it also shunts noise / insteon frequencies from the red to the neutral( white)side of this filter. This does not absorb the Insteon signals from the supply side (black) as much as the XPNR which basically is a shunt that does not care what direction the signal is coming from (supply vs load) and as you stated earlier it is not surprising that it killed insteon signals. That filter needs to be installed as possible to what is generating the noise preferably inside the offending equipment or in the very first junction box. The other question that is raised is why insteon interference would be delayed? and to clarify, insteon signals sent from pump house to house are received during interference, but things in pumphouse cant hear signals from the house?