bjackson

Sure! I'd be honored. Bob

I've documented the installations on my website at http://www.handymanhowto.com/category/technology/home-automation/. The Heath Zenith PIR motion sensor isn't intelligent, it just drives the sensor output from 0VAC to 120VAC and the InLineLinc does the rest. It's easy to see how one could get creative and cannibalize the PIR sensor and use it with the InLineLinc to control all kinds of 120VAC circuits, pumps, etc. Just be sure to follow the electrical building codes and stay safe. Thanks Bob

I did something similar with a Togglelinc and 2420M motion detector. My front porch lights come on only at night for 10 minutes if motion is detected. I also provided for a Fast Off override in case I wanted to go outside and keep the lights off. In another post on this forum, Michel gave me the key hint of using Enable/Disable on a program to ensure the Wait command isn't interrupted with new motion events. The diagram and source code is posted here: http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/05/31/automate-exterior-lights-with-an-insteon-wireless-motion-sensor/ I think you could readily adapt the code to suit your needs. Thanks, Bob

Appreciate for the reply. I left the Panasonic netcam configuration "as is" and went with a DynDNS account, static IP and port forwarding. Internet access has been reliable now for almost 2 weeks. I posted the tutorial at http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/20/how-to-configure-a-static-ip-address-for-the-isy-99i-home-automation-controller-part-1/ Thanks Bob

Hi, I have an ISY-99i with v2.7.0 firmware and a DSL modem running in "bridge" mode to a Linksys WRT-54G WiFi router. I also have a Panasonic network camera, model BB-HCM511A, which includes a DDNS service. The DDNS URL for the net cam is http://xyz.viewnetcam.com, where 'xyz' is unique to my DDNS account. The cool thing is the Panasonic Network Camera has an internal DDNS agent so I don't have to have rely on having my desktop PC running a DDNS agent to catch IP address changes. The issue I'm having is anytime my Internet Service Provider (ISP) assigns a new dynamic IP address to the DSL modem, I can't access the ISY-99i from the Internet unless I recycle power on the ISY-99i. Here's the sequence: 1. ISY-99i is powered on. 2. Able to access the ISY-99i via https://xyz.viewnetcam.com:443 from the Internet. 3. ... days or weeks go by ... 4. My DSL modem dynamic IP address changes. 5. I can access the Panasonic network camera via http://xyz.viewnetcam.com from the Internet with no problem. 6. However, I cannot access the ISY-99i via https://xyz.viewnetcam.com:443 7. Cycle power to the ISY-99i. 8. Now I can access the ISY-99i via https://xyz.viewnetcam.com:443 Would assigning static IP address to the ISY and explicit port 443 forwarding fix the problem - guessing this could be UPnP issue? Thanks Bob

Powered off and on the ISY-99i. The Help->About Internet Access is now showing the new IP address. Apparently the actual dynamic IP address (if changed) must match what the ISY thinks it should be in the Help->About dialog. A possible feature request to have the ISY query the current IP address? Thanks

Hi Michel, Thanks for the DDNS sites, this is absolutely the way to solve the problem. My curiosity is why the Help->About Internet Access URL isn't updating when my DSL modem IP address changed. Regards

Installed the ISY-99i with firmware v2.7.0 a couple of weeks ago, enabled Internet Access and could access the ISY from the Internet at https://98.18.x.y/ just fine from my iPhone and laptop at work. My DSL modem is running in bridge mode to a Linksys WRT-54G WiFi router. Yesterday my DSL ISP changed my dynamic IP address from 98.18.x.y to 98.18.j.k. I discovered the IP address change when I couldn't access the ISY over the Internet. OK no problem, but the new URL/IP address at https://98.18.j.k wouldn't work - the web browser times out. Firing up the ISY-99i Java Admin Console and going to Help->About lists the Internet Access URL as https://98.18.x.y - which is former (i.e. old) IP address. Do I need to reboot the ISY-99i for it to detect and refresh the new DSL ISP address in the Help-About Internet Access URL display? Thanks

Installed a 2nd In-LineLinc with the Heath Zenith SL-5412 floodlight, available at Home Depot. The SL-5412 (180 degree motion sensor, lamp shades) is a slightly better version of the SL-5411 (150 degree motion sensor, no lamp shades). Both models work fine with the In-LineLinc.

> I wonder, if you were to wire in a small night light, a 4 watt bulb, from the > yellow and red connection to neutral, if that would take care of the problem? > The 4 watt bulb would probably be enough to drain the voltage presented > on the red wire of the motion enough so that the 2475S2 would then see > a voltage closer to 0 when the motion is off. I was thinking the same thing. I purchased the Heath Zenith SL-5411 ($21.97) which is sold at Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&catalogId=10&productId=100014085) and tested it on my workbench. It worked perfectly the 1st time with the In-LineLinc! Voltages on the sensor red wire went between 0VAC and 120VAC when the motion sensor is activated, the relay in the In-LineLinc clicked and the lights went on and off with the motion sensor signal. Note the SL-5411 model does not have the Dual-Bright feature. I wired up the outside floodlight with the SL-5411 motion sensor, put the motion sensor in Test mode and success! It worked with the In-LineLinc! And with compact fluorescent bulbs too! Root Cause: All motion sensors are not created equal. The Heath Zenith models with the Dual-Bright feature don't work with the In-LineLinc (see prior note in this thread from Nick who found this issue, too). The Hampton Creat-a-Light motion sensor that I scavenged from another floodlight had similar voltage problems. Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

I took another look at the floodlight unit that sold with the SmartHome kit. The user manual at http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/4097bn.pdf identifies it as a Heath/Zenith model SL-5408 - a low cost basic unit that's widely available. The SL-5408 is very similar to the SL-5411 which is sold a Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&catalogId=10&productId=100014085. I confirmed the similar features by Googling the SL-5411 user guide. I'll get the SL-5411 and give it a try. I think my problem is finding a compatible motion sensor unit.

After more experimentation, I'm convinced the In-LineLinc w/ Sense is not the problem. I setup the motion sensor, In-LineLinc and flood lamp on the workbench with the Heath/Zenith motion sensor and a Hampton Create-A-Light motion sensor. This is the workbench setup. Notice the Hampton motion sensor (not a dual bright model) is applying 123.9VAC to the yellow (Sense) wire of the In-LineLinc, yet the floodlamp is off. In this next photo, the flood lamp on is because I disconnected/reconnected the motion sensor red wire from the yellow sense wire. The momentary interruption caused the In-LineLinc to switch on the red load wire that's connected to the lamp. In trying various configurations, I've found: 1) Connecting the motion sensor directly to the flood lamp without the In-LineLinc always works. The PIR red wire voltage goes from near 0VAC to 123VAC when the motion sensor is activated. 2) When the In-LineLinc is wired into the circuit, the motion sensor red wire voltage is 123VAC when the sensor is on, but it only goes to 84VAC when the motion sensor is off. I watched the on/off transitions on the DMM and heard the motion sensor relay click on and off as I waved my hand across it. The Hampton motion sensor doesn't have the "Dual Bright" dimming option of the Heath/Zenith, yet both have strange voltage behaviors when connected to the Sense wire of the In-LineLinc. The Heath/Zenith won't raise the voltage on the red output wire above ~55VAC in the On state. The Hampton sensor won't drop it's voltage below 84VAC in the off state. Manually pressing the In-LineLinc on/off buttons always works. I've also tried a factory default reset but this made no difference. I've studied my wiring numerous times, am I missing something? The wiring isn't complex. Has anyone had similar problems with off-the-shelf PIR sensors? Thanks for your replies!

This is how it's wired: Motion PIR --- Black Wire -+- Black & Red (Line, Load) --- In-LineLinc | + Line Side from Electrical Box Motion PIR --- Red Wire --- Yellow Wire (Sense) --- In-LineLinc Floodlight lamps --- Black Wires (2) --- Red Wire (Load) --- In-LineLinc All neutrals (white) connected together. All grounds connected together. --------- Since my last post, I temporarily wired in an on/off light switch from the house line side (black) to the yellow (Sense) input of the In-LineLinc. The red wire sensor output is disconnected here. Throwing the switch applies 120V to the yellow input of the In-LineLinc but I'm not hearing the relay click. I verified 120V on the yellow wire with my DMM. The other functions of the In-LineLinc - LED is green, push button on/off (audible click of the relay), link button activation with beep and remote control via ISY Admin Console work fine. I'm wondering if I have a bad In-LineLinc? I have a 2nd unit on hand that I can replace it with.

Having a problem with the 120V (red wire) sensor output from a Heath/Zenith PIR motion sensor, model #SL-5316. It's the one being sold by HomeDepot. The In-LineLinc is wired to the floodlight and motion sensor as shown in the "Wired with Sense" diagram of the Quick Start Guide (http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2475S2-qsg.pdf). My problem is I get a very brief 110VAC output from the motion sensor that immediately falls to between ~15VAC to ~55VAC when wired only to the Sense input (yellow wire) of the In-LineLinc. The 15V to 55VAC output from the motion sensor (red wire) is too low to trigger the In-LineLinc to turn on it's load - i.e. the floodlights. The "Dual Bright" (dimming feature) switch on the Heath/Zenith sensor is set to Off. This happens with the motion sensor in Test mode and in normal operating mode. The In-LineLinc LED is green, manually pressing the Off and On buttons switch the floodlights correctly and I can turn the lights on/off remotely from the ISY Admin Console. I experimented by moving the motion sensor and floodlight lamp to the work bench (without the In-LineLinc) where I wire nutted things together using a cutoff extension cord for power. Connecting my digital multimeter (DMM) to the motion sensor output (red wire) and the white (neutral) wire again confirmed very brief 110V reading that dropped to ~55V with the motion sensor in "Test" mode and "Dual Bright" off. However, wiring the floodlight lamp to the motion sensor output (red wire) produced a steady 110VAC reading on the DMM when the motion sensor is activated, and the floodlight is shining brightly. It seems the Heath/Zenith motion sensor needs a resistive load to produce a steady 110VAC load on the red output wire. Appreciate if anyone can recommend a solution. If I have to, I'll buy the new Insteon Motion Sensor Floodlight from SmartHome, though I don't see why the Heath/Zenith PIR shouldn't work. Thanks

Ah! The Disable and Enable Program is the key to the solution! Thanks!