gschoffstall

Sounds like a plan! Thanks again for the help.

YAY!! That worked. Thank you. When the console opened up from your supplied address, I went back to the IOX launcher. When I added the port 8080 to the launcher address, it also worked.

Yes, I checked all 3 boxes. I am running Windows 10 and the Duck Duck Go browser, but I have Chrome, Firefox, and Edge installed for options. Since I posted, I have uninstalled Java, deleted all copies of start.jnlp, re-installed Java, cleared cache (3 files) again and downloaded a new start.jnlp file. Same result.

Gentlemen, After my EISY system was up and running, it spontaneously stopped talking to me through the Admin Console. The portal works fine. All my devices do communicate. All my programs run as expected. BUT, the IOX launcher does not find the IOX. I cleared the Java cache (files) and downloaded a new start file, creating a new launcher. No good. I went on the portal, selected Maintenance> upgrade packages, rebooted. then I repeated the clear cache on Java loaded ANOTHER start file. Same result IOX Finder Not Found. Again the thing is communicating through the portal, but it won't cooperate with the Admin Console. I tried adding in the IP addresses - internal, external, and internet. It told me the addresses were invalid. I also power cycled both the PLM and EISY. Also, when I plug in the internet access to a browser, I get this: This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below. What am I doing wrong?

Perfect! Also thank you Dennis C. I did not need the verbose WIKI version, but it clarified the issue. I'll save that one for the future.

Gentlemen, I have a new Windows10 laptop. When I install Java, it installs in Program files instead of Program files(x86) like previous versions. When I clear cache, delete files, then go to run a fresh copy of start.jnlp, it asks what to use to run it. I've tried several files in the bin folder including java.exe and it seems to do nothing. No icon ever shows up on the desktop. I tried going with an older version of Java - jre1.8.0_141 which it put in the (x86) folder and it did the same. Any ideas?

Guys, Here's an update on my communication issues. I finally received the AF100 ordered (by way of Zimbabwe and pack mule, I guess). Anyway, It fixed the X10 transmission issues caused by my grow light set. Now my lettuce and tomatoes have half a chance without messing anything else up. I still have to receive the big brother 20a version in case the freezer gets belligerent. I'm still slowly rebuilding my programs, but it's looking up. Thanks for being patient with me through my crisis. George

@Ross, I like the remotes M U C H better than the Insteon offerings. And it's not a big deal, but the X-10 modules are smaller. Since I started with X-10 back in the AppleII era (dating myself), I have a bunch of modules for spares if they crash. And the Insteon/ Smarthome parts are pricey. The advantage of UD/Insteon is the obvious redundancy of dual channel and power line - when it works.

Thanks IndyMike. I would like to maintain my system of mixed Insteon and X-10 devices. I just don't see that either one alone handles the needs. I believe that I may have found two issues. One is an Insteon outdoor on/off module. It's just killing the X-10 when it fires up, and sometimes when it's off. Also, my upright freezer has some effect. I don't know if it's a compressor or the defrost circuit at this point. Either way, I ordered some filters to try. Thanks to all for all the suggestions. I'll post again when I have more information.

I am not blaming the XTB-IIR, I just have no way of knowing it's solid. I was looking at the plug in Filterlinc, but they are scarce even on Ebay- and who knows what condition. There are a lot of filters in a can, and I have no problem housing them and dressing them up nice. But then just what frequency(s) are they tuned for? I haven't found any AF120's even on Ebay. Since I don't know exactly what is causing the works to go sideways yet, I don't know what current rating I need, or how many. I found an XPF and XPPF new. Guess I'll throw some money at it and see what flies. So many questions. Makes me want to rip it all out and go low voltage.

My 4 tap test results are inconclusive. I have an intermittent issue with signal transmission- especially X-10. I don't seen to be able so far to isolate what must surely be noise or attenuation on the lines. For signal coupllng, I have a JV Digital XTB-IIR. It always seemed to work fine and I don't know how to make sure it is still 100%. The issue is intermittent, as I said. I use X-10 HR12a controllers to trigger programs and some X-10 devices. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. I'm still trying to isolate, but so far, it's not the A/V equipment, the convection oven, or my grow lights - and it's random. Today's question - is there a difference between the Powerline Noise Filter from Insteon and the Filterlinc Noise Filter 5AMP from SmartHome, besides the obvious price difference? Thanks.

They are the dual band D2 modules. Thanks

OK, so there were a few responses suggesting the 4 tap test to verify coupling and signal integrity. I do not have a range extender, but I do have several virgin LampLinc's. I understand they could work for the test, but I have seen no documentation for how it is implemented. Does the testing device(s) have to be linked, or just plugged in? Or do they need to be link-free? If you are just using the Lamplinc for an RF bridge, does it have to be linked? Thanks.

If you plug your PLM into a UPS protected outlet, how do you make sure the signal is bridged around it?

Hi Guys, I'm sure this has been covered before somewhere, but I couldn't find an answer. Are X10 and Insteon powerline signals handled by hardware the same way? Do X10 bridges work for Insteon signals and vice versa? If using an X10 phase bridge, would it pass Insteon signals or block them, especially assuming the unit in question is advertised as a "booster" as well? If using LampLinc's for bridging, would they bridge X10 RF signals? I know that's a lot. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks, Techman. I'll check it out. The strip I was using is a wiremold plugmold strip with outlets spaced about 6" apart. There's no filter, or surge protection, and nothing on anything else plugged into it either. But thanks again for the suggestions. I think I'm past that now anyway, since I was able to link the Appliance Modules there after the PLM swap.

For all those waiting for news with baited breath, here it is: There is light at the end of the tunnel.....and it's not a BNSF locomotive. Ha ha. I changed out the original PLM with another that I have been rotating in and out. I restored everything except programs. I was able to link two of the original ApplianceLinc modules. One issue I discovered was that my power line phase bridge must have checked out. One of the recovered modules that works on the power strip does not work at the location it is supposed to live. So, I am guessing cascade failure. Lightening? Power surge? Maybe. But any way things are looking up and I thank you all for your support. I guess that new PLM is going on my list, along with a new line coupler. George

The thing I keep coming back to is this is all new for a previously working system. No hardware has been added or changed. It's all the same devices in the same locations for months to years. I'm going to try replacing the PLM. I know it's not a newer one with the USB interface, but it's something to try.

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I figured there was no question about phase if everything else linked ok on the same power strip. There was the question of the indicator light blinking fast 4x before settling in to the slow linking blink, though. This after a factory reset. I guess the other peculiar thing is that all the LampLinc modules worked correctly and all the ApplianceLinc modules did not. Everything was the same on the powerstrip, except for the modules I had to pull to make room.

Unfortunately, there is little joy in Mudville tonight. Apparently The system was not as ready as I expected. I thought I had deleted all the programs, but they mysteriously showed up when I started adding back the devices. I factory reset both EISY and PLM again. This time, I believe it took. Now when adding back the ApplianceLincs, they don't want to be found. Everything is within 10 feet of the EISY and PLM - and all the other devices linked fine on the same power strip. Another issue: has anybody seen the ApplianceLinc blink fast 4x, then start the normal linking slow blink. I have 4 of those doing the same thing. Two of them were never used - fresh out of the box. Thanks for any suggestions.

I think I am ready to start. I've gathered all the prepared devices and double checked the EISY and link status. When the devices are added, I can check their performance there before moving them to their desired location. One question, though. Must ALL battery devices be put in link mode when each one is added, or just the one device I am adding? That one has always confused me, as some of them are a little hard to reach when installed.

Ok, so far so good. All devices removed from the program. All devices factory reset, including the PLM. EISY power cycled. Baby steps, I only want to do this once. The finder got me to the Admin console, and here's the picture. Look right?

Thanks for that. I don't have any programs at this point that I trust. None of them were very complicated anyway- sensor > light> time> on/off. You get the point. I do have some old X10 hardware- Powerhouse remote controllers HR12A, which I really like for manual control. I won't get on a soap box about the Insteon remotes, but I have nothing good to say about them. Thanks again for clear instructions. I'll let you know either way.

Yes, Paul, I did. But in my flailing about, I can't remember exactly what happened. To the best of my knowledge, I seem to remember the results being that the device I was trying to link ignored me. I want to test each module and make sure it works where I need it to. It might be an advantage to use a range extender, but there wasn't any need for one before. I don't see any new ones for sale, and I don't want to buy a used one and end up with more trouble. But then I've been at this for over two weeks intermittently and I am afraid I need to get serious and zero everything out to start fresh. I could use some suggestions to that end. I've seen suggestions to put things in "Test mode", Use a range extender (which I do not have), remove links (for which there are no clear instructions). Simply: How can I make sure ALL the links are disabled/ deleted to start clean?