shergenr

I think Verizon has dropped support for the email to text option. But want to ask a question: My notifications are firing when prescribed, but delivering at random times. Some days later and at 330 am! Got tired of getting the "man your battle stations" sound at all hours of the day so I have deleted the notification node and notifications. Am wondering if I configured it wrong? Seemed really straight forward but I am days new to eisy

Wanted to report back on extending the serial plm cable: I simply bought a male to male rj45 coupler and attached it to UDI's serial cable and the 20' Ethernet cable I had been using. It works flawlessly.

Thanks Brian. I was hoping that only the 3 pins used by the udi serial adapter and the female Plm port were active. Do you think this is a bad assumption?

Okay that sorts out the PLM. I'm greedy - what's the thinking on the zmatter dongle? Can it be placed in a coat closet and provide reliable service? That dongle won't survive the Better Taste Committee which is chaired by my wife if it is to be mounted in direct line of site. Or is the trick to create a network of devices to pass that signal along?

Paul, my thinking on extending the serial cable is since it terminates into a male rj45 to extend it would be a simple matter of getting a female rj45 keystone and wire it with either standard a or b on both ends. The pin out is achieved via the serial cable, correct?

Paul, my thinking on extending the serial cable is since it terminates into a male rj45 to extend it would be a simple matter of getting a female rj45 keystone and wire it with either standard a or b on both ends. The pin out is achieved via the serial cable, correct?

I'm ready to upgrade from isy994 to eisy. In the process of a remodel so I have to relocate my udi box and plm, and have questions about placement of the Plm and z matter dongle. Generally speaking both items operate on usb standards. As I understand, usb signals are limited to 16 feet of wire. Is this correct? Can I use a usb over ip extender for either of these or will it interfere with the signals? Additionally, in terms of placement what are the realities of location of the z matter dongle ? Can these be placed in closets and function well or does it have to be out in the open? Finally in terms of interference: I will likely have to add the wireless module to my elk panel...will this compete/interfere with the signals generated for zmatter and vice versa? Thanks for your help.

Can anyone tell me what's the length of the Serial PLM Kit cable? For some reason UD felt it more pertinent to only provide the weight of the cable an not the length. Also, was wondering if this cable length and the use of USB limits the maximum distance a PLM can be from the EISY? Or can I simply create an extension using RJ45 adapters and Cat5e cable? Thanks for helping.

Yeah by not putting manual at the end of my searches all I was getting was to smarthome and or insteon caches which are not connecting. Thanks for patience! BTW - almost all you will want is on www.manualsdir.com

I would like to get the docs associated with the 2443-222 micro switch, 2477D, 2334-235 and the 2466dw. I looked at the collection on pyinsteon and that seemed more developer-centric than user centric. Anyone have these?

I'm interested in the IO Linc...

So is there a listing of capacitors for replacement?

Thanks for the info! You think the old version has any real issues?

Thanks for the info! You think the old version has any real issues?

I just received a purchase from eBay seller: IO Link 2540 or device 43. Is this a legit Insteon device or did I get a bootleg? My original which is fried has an Insteon label on it vs this smart home branding. This one is v1.9 1223..am I gonna have issues with it?

Would disconnecting the load lead from the KPL be sufficient, it's hot as hades up in that attic right now?

Yes, all that is happening. I was able to manually link the KPL to another device, so the KPL isn't bad. So I guess its onto noise factors. This particular circuit has 3 gfci receptacles and the undercabinet leds driven by the magnetic dimmable led driver that is connected to the load. Am thinking that I need to start on this circuit to eliminate the various factors. Other advice?

I gapped, factory reset, started linking and pressed until chirp - no love. What's the chance that the KPL is just bad?

The above is the thread on my dimmable driver, I believe it was Mr. Bill that stated that the driver may be incorrect. KPL wasn't part of my backup "Anyway, restored my ISYfrom back up, version was pre-kpl circuit, so I figured I would just reprogram the KPL." Am thinking if this is a communication issue, restoring from back up might not work anyway. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/30697-6key-kpl-dimming-issue/?do=findComment&comment=297018

All has been done, multiple times.

I have searched the forum and wiki, cannot seem to add a 2334-235 KPL to my ISY994izw. The KPL is about a year old and controls my under cabinet LEDs. All had been working fine, until I discovered my ISY wasn't connecting to my network. Unfortunately, I had set the ISY up with a manual IP address and had a reasonably good back-up, I hard reset my ISY. Later, determined that my ethernet cable had become loose - smack the head, check to see if the car has gas in it! Anyway, restored my ISYfrom back up, version was pre-kpl circuit, so I figured I would just reprogram the KPL. Air gapped it, factory reset the KPL several times. Updated my software to 4.9.... Can't seem to determine the engine. Moved my PLM to a different position in the house, cannot determine engine. Placed the PLM in the receptacle that feeds the power to the switch (the KPL and receptacle are in the same dual gang box), cannot determine engine. I don't have a big installation, just a couple of micro switches, 3 2477's dual band all within 20 feet of the KPL, 4 lamplincs , 1 iolinc and a phase coupler. By the way, the load on the KPL is a LED dimmable driver ( I have been informed that it is the wrong type - magnetic but it has been working). I've read the posts that say most issues are noise related, but before I go and unplug everything in my house given what I have done so far is it fairly reasonable to assume that I have a dead KPL?

Lilyoyo1 Thanks for your reply. I'm going to clarify by cutting down the variables based on your feedback. 1) I want to be able to dim the strip lights but I don't want any color control. 2) I will need a dimmable driver as alluded to above 40W/Magnitude 3) My wife is going to insist on counter top control from a "switch" 4) Can I use a KPL by itself to act as a switch or do I need a KPL coupled with a dimmable ballast? 5) Alternatively, I have a dimming Toggle Link on that circuit and have no problems now (it controls an LED spot and does well). In fact I am likely going to add 2 more toggle links to other non-led switches on that circuit to control incandescents above the island and breakfast table - does that change your equation about "interference" any? Scene control is less important than local control and abilty to dim the lights.

Am planning my kitchen remodel and would like to install some LED strip lights below my cabinets. I have approximately 9 feet of under cabinet space that I need to light. I would like them to be dimmable and controlled by my ISY994iz. I've looked at the various posts and documentation and have managed to confuse myself. So here are my questions: 1) Do I need to buy a 12v dimmable driver or non-dimmable driver? Such as the Magnitude E40L12DC-KO? 2) Do I need the 0-10v Dimmable Ballast to control the dimming of the driver? 3) Assuming I need both 1 and 2, which side is the Dimmable Ballast wired to: a) between the switch and the driver, (b) between the driver and the led fixture ... or ? 4) Switch - Can the Dimmable ToggleLink switch handle the dimming? 5) Could a KPL replace the Toggle Links' function to switch the Leds on/off, and dim? Would it be a better solution than using the ToggleLink? The paddle switches aren't allowed according to the "better taste" committee. I might be able to get away with the KPL by adding scenes and/or controlling the driveway gate opener..... As always, I appreciate the forum's help. If you have any product recommendations would surely appreciate those too.

Thanks Lilyoyo1 and JFAI! Appreciate the assistance.

Jurgen, Thanks for the answer. Can I simply test via the multimeter by probing the wiring blocks at the panel or do I need to disconnect them from the wiring block? Also, I have 8 zones with 18 to 19 sensors. So may zones have sensors ganged together into a pigtail at the panel - do I need to test the wires separately (ungang them)?