arw01 Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 My first repair was a little messy and I think perhaps i pulled the wrong cap, have not tried that KPL yet as it was a spare that I may have to buy another cap for and repair again However the second repair where I drilled out the rivet of the triac was less painful, and I followed the idea above where I just broke off the old cap and soldered on top of the pads with a good pile of solder until it flowed all the way through. I do have a solder sucker pen coming and some new wick as mine does not work hardly at all now. That KPL was instantly repaired with the single 50v 10uf cap replacement, I did NOT put a bolt in as I didn't have just the right one, and could not find my rivet gun. In my application the load is a pair fo 10 watt leds so I am not worried about extra heat on the triac. It would be pretty trivial to replace the rivet if you have the proper size tools. I have one more to do next when more tools arrive that controls a single CFL porch light. Then will just wait for any others to fail if they ever do. Alan
diggler Posted January 18, 2016 Posted January 18, 2016 gonna try this repair on my kpl and think my plm is on its way it as well. sux, thx for the write up.
diggler Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I changed the one 10uhf, still acting up. Does any have the other capacitor numbers tht need to be changed Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
blueman2 Posted February 7, 2016 Author Posted February 7, 2016 (edited) I changed the one 10uhf, still acting up. Does any have the other capacitor numbers tht need to be changed Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk I just replaced 2 more today. I found I had to replace both 10uf capacitors this last time. The Green one like before, but also the smaller black one right next to it. Top left 2 capacitors in Post #5 picture. That made it work again. So far, all the KPLs I have re-cap'd are still running fine. I am getting so good I can recap a KPL within about 5 minutes start to finish! Edited February 7, 2016 by blueman2
diggler Posted February 7, 2016 Posted February 7, 2016 Do u hv part number for replacement Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
blueman2 Posted February 7, 2016 Author Posted February 7, 2016 No, I just ordered a complete set of low ESR capacitors because I do so much capacitor repair on different electronics. But any 10uf 35V or more capacitor will do. Low ESR caps will probably last longer.
Brian H Posted February 7, 2016 Posted February 7, 2016 (edited) Low ESR would be recommended. I believe it has the switching power supply IC {could not read the part number from the FCC Database Photos} on the solder side of the PCB that Smartlabs liked to use. That could also be why the glue holding the crystal is discolored. Power supply components on the other side of the PCB. Edited February 7, 2016 by Brian H
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