Linking 2476S SwitchLink problem (ISY 994I/IR Pro)

[TheSwartz]

Hello:

 

Long story (but may be relevant) is that I had an ISY 994I/IR Pro connected to a 2413S and a bunch of SwitchLinks (2476S) set up in the prior house I was in. Was working totally fine. I Took all these out (the new owner didn't want them I wanted to re-use them) and they've sat in a box for the past year.

 

I just plugged in the ISY 994I and 2413S. I deleted all devices (I couldn't find how to do a "total reset") and I've only tried to install one SwitchLink so far.

 

This SwitchLink appears to be working (lights on, switches on/off, etc.) But I'm having problems linking it. I would start linking and NOTHING would happen. I tried multiple times. I plugged the PLM into an outlet on the same wall as the light switch to see if positioning was the problem.

 

I then performed a factory reset on the SwitchLink and it finds it now, but then I get the error:

The Following Devices Could not be added

1B.DF.89 (2476S) SwitchLink Relay - Remote Control On/Off Switch v.41
- Cannot Determine Insteon Engine

This is the log from the event viewer:

 

Sat 08/22/2015 03:41:50 PM : Start Insteon Device Linking Mode

Sat 08/22/2015 03:42:06 PM : [1B.DF.89 00] Linked device type=02.1C fw=41

Sat 08/22/2015 03:42:06 PM : [1B DF 89 0  ] Added to list of devices to link to ISY

Sat 08/22/2015 03:42:47 PM : Stop Insteon Device Linking Mode, Final processing to follow

Sat 08/22/2015 03:43:09 PM : [1B DF 89 0  ] Failed to add device, reason 3

Sat 08/22/2015 03:43:09 PM : [All         ] Writing 0 bytes to devices

Sat 08/22/2015 03:43:09 PM : [All         ] Writing 0 bytes to devices

I'm really not sure what the problem is and I want to figure this out before spending time installing the other switches

 

I don't know if it's important, but this room I'm installing to has 10 of those can CFL light fixtures. The whole house uses these, which is totally different than my old house. Might this have something to do with that?

 

 

 

Thanks!

 

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UPDATE

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OK, seriously, I could be dumb. I tried linking the one time after that factory reset and got those errors (after multiple times of nothing). Did some reading online, couldn't find anything and so I posted this thread.

 

Then, I tried one more time and it worked fine.

 

So... probably no issue?

[stusviews]

 

I plugged the PLM into an outlet on the same wall as the light switch to see if positioning was the problem.

 

 

Good that you got it working. Here's some general info:

 

Plugging a device in on the same wall as a switch may not help communication. That's because, in most homes, lighting and outlets are on different circuits, often on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. Also, the 2476S device is powerline only, so physical proximity to another devices has no effect.

 

It's possible that the CFLs will cause difficulty as time passes due to aging of the components, so keep that in mind if you run into another communication problem.

 

Have fun in your new home

[TheSwartz]

 

It's possible that the CFLs will cause difficulty as time passes due to aging of the components, so keep that in mind if you run into another communication problem.

 

So...

 

That switch stopped working after getting it installed.

 

As I'm troubleshooting, what kinds of problems are you referring to regarding CFL? Cause I do have problems with multiple ballasts going On and Off throughout the house. Any links to additional information?

 

Thanks!

[stusviews]

Do you meant that the switch doesn't work even manually? Or do you mean control by the ISY stopped working? If the latter, then test the switch with no load connected.

[TheSwartz]

Do you meant that the switch doesn't work even manually? Or do you mean control by the ISY stopped working? If the latter, then test the switch with no load connected.

 

I'm sorry, I obviously wasn't clear.

 

I mean that the ISY says "Cannot Communicate with...." and isn't controlling the device.

 

The switch itself appears to be working; turning the lights on/off. The LED lights on. etc. I tried a reset to see if that got it connected, but it hasn't so far.

[stusviews]

What's the result if you disconnect the load--restore device, write updates to device--and test the switch from the iSY with the load still disconnected? The goal is to determine if the load itself is causing the difficulty.

[TheSwartz]

What's the result if you disconnect the load--restore device, write updates to device--and test the switch from the iSY with the load still disconnected? The goal is to determine if the load itself is causing the difficulty.

 

FYI: Tools --> Diagnostics --> PLM Info/Status --> says it's connected

 

1. I disconnected the load, did a factory reset, and then attempted to write updates: nothing happens. I queried the device and it doesn't seem to communicate (and there is a red exclamation point). I reconnect the load and still no response.

 

 

2. I moved the PLM to the adjacent room where I'm testing the light switch (since that seemed to be important initially) --> I queried the device and the red exclamation turned to the 6 light icon thingy; but then when I tried to control the switch from within ISY it said it's not able to communicate. Also, when I turned the actual switch on/off, the state was not reflected within ISY (although querying the device updated the status).

 

3. I then moved the PLM back to the room I'm testing (it's an office with all my electronics, i.e. the ISY, etc) and then placed a dual band 2457D2 in the adjacent room (same receptacle I tested in step 2 above) and got the same responses as step 2.

 

Conclusion 1: These two rooms, although right next to each other, are on separate circuits?

 

4. I seem to have full control of the 2457D2 in the "next room" from the ISY (with the PLM in the "other room")

 

Conclusion 2: I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the 2476S switch?

 

5. I was just poking around in the UD Administrative Console and trying to figure out how to "delete" or "remove" my switch (can't seem to find this BTW) and I clicked on the button "Automatically Write Changes to Devices" and I heard some clicks from the switch and some events showed up in the event viewer and then I got control of the switch as I would expect (i.e. selecting on or off in the admin console controls the switch and when I click the switch on or off and the actual state is reflected in the admin console.

 

6. For experiment's sake, I pulled up the iOS MobiLinc Pro app and I was able to control the switch as expected.

 

7. I unplugged that dual band 2457D2 and then tried to query the switch and I got an error "TCP Client DNS Error" and also "Cannot communicate with ...". Then we're back to not being able to control the switch and the iOS app didn't work.

 

Conclusion 3: seems to confirm they are on different circuits, and maybe not really anything wrong with the switch?

 

8. I plugged the dual band 2457D2 back in and things seem to be working again.

 

Final Conclusion: A little confusing, but I think these two adjacent rooms are on different circuits (at least between the power outlet where the PLM is installed and the lights) AND, I think my switch is OK, but got bugged and I was able to reset it by clicking that "Automatically Write Changes to Devices" button.

 

9. I changed the 2476S ON/OFF switch for a dual band 2477D Dimmer switch (because I want to change these CFLs to LEDs and dim them) and seems to be working fine without the dual band 2457D2 in the adjacent room. But I don't think that changes my conclusion above, can't prove the other switch was a problem or not.

 

I'm going to go ahead and start adding more devices now leaving that dual band dimmer in the next room... let's see if they eventually keep each other working (which the mesh network idea is my favorite part of Insteon! makes me think it's more stable as I collect more devices!)

 

 

 

FYI: probably because it's not a good idea to be drinking while messing with high voltage electrical... but if you are cavalier to change out switches without turning off the circuit breaker... yes that white "neutral" wire appears to have voltage when all the other wires are plugged in LoL..

[stusviews]

Your test results suggests that the receptacles are not only on different circuits, but that they're on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. It's a good idea to run the 4-tap/beacon test on your dual-band devices. And, yes, it's entirely possible to get a shock from the neutral, most especially between two neutral wires that were originally connected together.

[TheSwartz]

It's a good idea to run the 4-tap/beacon test on your dual-band devices.

 

Sorry, I'm gonna go ahead and immediately ask, what is is the "4-tap/beacon test"? Got a link to something?

 

I did a quick Google search and don't find it, and then I'm looking through the full guide for the 2477D, but not seeming to find this... if someone is already checking this thread, I'll go ahead and test that tonight. Thanks!

[stusviews]

Tap the set button on any dual-band device 4 times, very rapidly. The device will start beeping and the LED will start blinking. If that doesn't happen, then you probably didn't tap fast enough. The PLM is a good candidate to start with.

 

Observe the set LED on other dual band devices. Green indicates that the devices are communicating via RF and that they're on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. Bridging has occurred.

 

Red indicates that they're communicating via RF and are not on opposite legs. If the dual-band device's LED is not blinking, then there is no RF communication between that device and the one that initiated the test. That does not mean that the device is not communicating. Signals travel via the powerline, too.

 

Depending on the device and when the device was manufactured, the LED may be white. Also. some responding devices have a solid LED while others blink. You'll need to check each device's Owner's Manual if you're not sure.

 

Plug in devices are easy to start the test. I use a small screwdriver to initiate the test on SwitchLincs and Keypads. Tap the set button once to end the test.

 

Only one pair needs to respond with green to accomplish coupling. It's a good idea to run the test in both direction (i.e., swap which device initiates the test).

[TheSwartz]

Green indicates that the devices are communicating via RF and that they're on opposite legs of the three-wire, single-phase electric supply. Bridging has occurred.

 

Red indicates that they're communicating via RF and are not on opposite legs.

 

Ah, hah.

 

Then, yes, the PLM and original switch in question are on opposite legs (GREEN). And, when testing that location with the power outlet I originally used to bridge, those two spots communicate, but are apparently not on opposite legs (RED).

 

FYI: I'm sharing this post which I like, some good, relevant tips: http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/27473-new-house-probably-go-with-insteon/?p=223639

 

Thanks!