diggler Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Second keypad linc to go dead. All this one does is clicks and all buttons lit up faintly. Any chance of reviving it or just toss it. Drew Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Teken Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Second keypad linc to go dead. All this one does is clicks and all buttons lit up faintly. Any chance of reviving it or just toss it. Drew Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Drew, It has been said in other postings that if you replace as many of the capacitors you may very well revive the unit. Having said this if the problem is any IC or SMD part you are pretty much SOL.
Techman Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Second keypad linc to go dead. All this one does is clicks and all buttons lit up faintly. Any chance of reviving it or just toss it. Drew Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Assuming you have a good electrical connection to the KPL, try a factory reset, restore device. What's the hardware and date code on the KPL?
diggler Posted January 4, 2016 Author Posted January 4, 2016 Awsome, amazing how they only last about 2 yrs Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Teken Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 Awsome, amazing how they only last about 2 yrs Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Can you state the hardware production date and revision number along with the ISY firmware for the group.
diggler Posted January 4, 2016 Author Posted January 4, 2016 dont know year, its installed about 2 yrs now Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk I can get the firmware and info from isy dashboard? Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Techman Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) dont know year, its installed about 2 yrs now Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk I can get the firmware and info from isy dashboard? Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk This KPL was manufactured the 33rd week of 2009. I's probably best to replace it. Edited January 4, 2016 by Techman
diggler Posted January 4, 2016 Author Posted January 4, 2016 Got ya, then it was most likely ebay special lol. How r the newer ones, made any better and wow 70 bucks wtf lol Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Techman Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 Got ya, then it was most likely ebay special lol. How r the newer ones, made any better and wow 70 bucks wtf lol Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk The current versions have updated hardware and firmware. I recently replaced some older KPL's, so far so good. No problems.
diggler Posted January 5, 2016 Author Posted January 5, 2016 Found a new one 2334-323 for 50 plus shipping Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
TheWabit Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 If you have a Menards near you - they still have them for $49.00. At least here they do.
diggler Posted January 5, 2016 Author Posted January 5, 2016 None in NY. sux Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
zerop Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 (edited) If you're going to throw away that dead KPL, would you be willing to pop off the large "On" and "Off" buttons, putting them in an envelope and mailing them to me? I'm in need of new large buttons and don't want the ones labeled "All On" and "All Off" that came in the 50 button replacement kit I bought. Edited January 5, 2016 by zerop
Teken Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 If you're going to throw away that dead KPL, would you be willing to pop off the large "On" and "Off" buttons, putting them in an envelope and mailing them to me? I'm in need of new large buttons and don't want the ones labeled "All On" and "All Off" that came in the 50 button replacement kit I bought. Zerop, It should be noted that depending upon model years of KPL's you have. You may find once the key is back lit it will either appear yellow, off white, or white. Just something to keep in mind . . .
zerop Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 Zerop, It should be noted that depending upon model years of KPL's you have. You may find once the key is back lit it will either appear yellow, off white, or white. Just something to keep in mind . . . Hmmm, didn't think about that. Mine are newer, <1 year. If that one was manufactured in '99 maybe it won't work.
Teken Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 Hmmm, didn't think about that. Mine are newer, <1 year. If that one was manufactured in '99 maybe it won't work. Its not that it won't work it comes down to how anal you're about the color matching. I won't lie I've been told I have a little more than OCD in many areas. But depending upon what area this device is you may never really care and just live with it. I couldn't because most of them were in high traffic areas which I see literally every day. So seeing a few of the chicklets yellow or off white when compared to the others just drove me crazy. Obviously my OCD kicked in so I hunted down five sets of the 50 packs that were made in the same period as the ones in use. Keep in mind there are actually two issues one being the white plastic can be different shades of white. The other is what I noted which is when the chicklet is back lit it will appear to be either yellowish, off white, or white. Let us know how this turns out if it goes through.
zerop Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 Its not that it won't work it comes down to how anal you're about the color matching. I won't lie I've been told I have a little more than OCD in many areas. But depending upon what area this device is you may never really care and just live with it. I couldn't because most of them were in high traffic areas which I see literally every day. So seeing a few of the chicklets yellow or off white when compared to the others just drove me crazy. Obviously my OCD kicked in so I hunted down five sets of the 50 packs that were made in the same period as the ones in use. Keep in mind there are actually two issues one being the white plastic can be different shades of white. The other is what I noted which is when the chicklet is back lit it will appear to be either yellowish, off white, or white. Let us know how this turns out if it goes through. Yeah, these would be in high traffic areas and I've got enough OCD in me as well for that to bother. We'll see. Maybe they'll work, that is if diggler wouldn't mind spending $0.50 (or whatever a stamp costs now-a-days) and an envelop, but if not, not the end of the world.
diggler Posted January 5, 2016 Author Posted January 5, 2016 I might try and repair it. Bought a replacement. If fixing dont work then i dont kind sending u the buttons Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
diggler Posted January 14, 2016 Author Posted January 14, 2016 Which capacitor gets replaced and anyone have a part number. Cant find the thread with the write up on replacing it Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Teken Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 In your photo I see three capacitors and would simply replace all three and see what happens. Verify that the resistor value is with in the percentage of accepted value too. Lastly, if all of the above has been changed out and in spec. But you find the device still not fully operational it could be one of several small IC's on the board. If that is the case you're a little SOL . . . Lastly, you will notice a small round and thin silver cylinder laying flat. If you notice its internal guts have exploded this needs to be replaced of course. It should be noted this specific part has been Achilles Heel for the first and second generation Lamp Lincs. Good luck and keep us all posted about the final outcome.
diggler Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) Do u know if there is a write up with replacement parts Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Edited January 15, 2016 by diggler
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