What is the best deadbolt for use with the ISY?

[gweempose]

I'd like to add a deadbolt to my house that I can control with my ISY. I see that Smarthome makes an Insteon lock controller that is compatible with MiLock deadbolts. Are these any good, or am I better off going with some type of Z-Wave deadbolt? 

 

Edit: I did a little digging and found this thread:

 

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17788-deadbolt-recommendations/?hl=deadbolt

 

I probably should have searched better before asking this question. It looks like the Schlage BE469 is probably my best option. What exactly will I need to integrate this lock into my system? I assume I need to add Z-Wave capabilities to my ISY. Is there any other Z-Wave infrastructure I'll need to add, or will the Z-Wave module allow the ISY to directly communicate with the lock?

[stusviews]

You may need a repeater. The best repeater by far is the Aeon Gen 5 Siren. There is no way to tell in advance. Also, read this.

[danbutter]

Just wanted to add the kwikset option for you. I have a few kwikset keypad locks one of which is a deadbolt.

The biggest advantage of the kwikset locks for me is the smartkey feature so I can have the same key for all my locks.

As far as the zwave it behaves the same as the others have been saying about the schlage.

Right down to customer service. I ordered one from ebay and it didnt come whole. I called in asking to buy the missing piece and they sent it to me with overnight shipping for free!

[stusviews]

All six of our Schlage locks are keyed alike, albeit, not as easily as the Kwikset.

[mwester]

Yes, do not let the keying concern keep you from a Schlage.  I have a lot of doors, interior and exterior on the house and buildings -- some are Schlage, some are Marvin, and a few Anderson.  I purchased a Schlage re-keying kit (from eBay), and with a bit of effort I was able to rekey each and every lock to use the same key.  The Schlage and Anderson locks were easy (the Anderson used a Schalge cylinder), and with some trial and error I managed to find a set of pins that worked with the Marvin locks so that they too would accept the same key.

 

Unfortunately, I purchased the (expensive) Schlage combo locks and keyed deadbolts before the z-wave units were available, so I have to wait for one of those to fail before I can play with that.   I suspect I'll be waiting a looooong time...

[stusviews]

Your Schlage locks will not fail, so you may as well upgrade now

[fryfrog]

And if you don't want to mess w/ the pins, you can just pull the tumblers out and take them to a lock smith. This is especially easy if you do it *before* you install the locks.

[elvisimprsntr]

I went wth the Kwikset 916 since all my other locks are Kwikset. It's an ANSI/BHMA grade 2 lock so I wasn't comfortable putting it on an exterior door, so it's installed in my garage interior door. All my other locks are ANSI/BHMA grade 1

 

http://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-Touchscreen-Electronic-Automation-Compatibility/dp/B00Q3N513E

 

I was able to do without a repeater since the lock and ISY are 5 feet apart with direct line of sight. It's also the only zwave device I have.

[RaginBajin]

I just installed a BE469 and it was super easy.  Connected right up to the ISY and was ready to rock in just a few minutes. 

 

Instead of bringing my old schlage lock to a locksmith, I was able to just replace the tailpiece with the one from the old one to the new one. It was easy to do and everything fit like a glove. 

[MWashington]

I am looking to do this with something like what is described in this: http://united-locksmith.net/blog/how-much-force-can-your-deadbolt-withstand

 

Grade 1. I don't want to mess around with a deadbolt that isn't going to be secure.

 

Does anyone know about a lock that fits both criteria?

[Teken]

I am looking to do this with something like what is described in this: http://united-locksmith.net/blog/how-much-force-can-your-deadbolt-withstand

 

Grade 1. I don't want to mess around with a deadbolt that isn't going to be secure.

 

Does anyone know about a lock that fits both criteria?

 

It really doesn't matter what grade of dead bolt you purchase if its attached to a paper frame . . . Coupled with the fact a large percentage of home owners have glass windows flanking either side of said dead bolt. To add insult to injury many of these same homes have an entire door made of glass.

 

Now, you add insult to injury where you literally see the bottom handle doesn't even incorporate a lock. So the user believes throwing money at a $200+ smart dead bolt is going to do what exactly?

 

Besides make your wallet thinner and that person living a lie in the belief they are safe?

 

If people are remotely serious about force protection they should beef up the entire door frame, use 3-4" shear rated screws, incorporate a slide plate, and install a security out swinging security gate.

 

All of these elements will offer you and the family the time to react and follow the next steps. The worst case it will add more effort for said criminal and they may very well move on to something easier to penetrate.

[KeviNH]

As an alternative, has anybody done any work with electromagnetic locking systems?   Obviously the biggest downside to these is that they need a bypass option to be code-compliant (OSHA, etc) and always will "fail safe".

 

Any other considerations when looking at using mag locks with an automation system?

[stusviews]

And a steel door frame.

[Teken]

As an alternative, has anybody done any work with electromagnetic locking systems?   Obviously the biggest downside to these is that they need a bypass option to be code-compliant (OSHA, etc) and always will "fail safe".

 

Any other considerations when looking at using mag locks with an automation system?

 

Yes, the (REX) request to exit must be tied to the alarm panel. If and when there is a fire condition the REX will force the mag lock to disengage.

 

A manual REX button should be considered essential as a method to bypass the system should there ever be a fault in the mag lock system. A mag lock system is not intended to be the primary method to secure a door its intended as fail over. Most cities will not allow such a device to be incorporated into a residential dwelling as it increases *Risks* when a fire condition is present. 

[jtara92101]

PM me if you are interested in an electromagnetic latch. I have two that I have no use for. One is made for a commercial metal doorframe, and was bought by mistake. It is quite large, and offers the better force protection of the two. The other one is a compact one made for a wood doorframe. You would operate these with an ioLinc. They are both made by Trine. They can be changed-over for left/right installation, as well as for fail-open or fail-closed. I keep meaning to put these on eBay.