Jeff_bull Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) It seems the switches never go on sale and you have to use 2 for each 3 way config. That adds up to quick and I have a lot of 3 or 4 way switch in my house. So I figured I would try the Micro switch (2442-222) to control these lights. The only snag is you have to have a power source on the same side that the light wiring is located. In other words you have to figure out the side the light is wired into the box and verify you have a 120v source there. If you have only 5 wires (2 for light and 3 for the traveler) then you cannot do this configuration. I have gang boxes with 3 or 4 switches in each so not a big issue for me. Attached is the drawing I did to show how I wired it. Works like a champ. Now I am sure someone has done this and I just did not see it in the forum but I figured it cannot hurt to add my 2 cents Actually $30 for a 3way config. I like those prices. Edited January 28, 2017 by Jeff_ISY994i
jtara92101 Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 I suppose the reason you haven't seen this discussed much that that few of us have any interest in this type of configuration. Most would put KPL or SL in all of the switch boxes, and then either run the light off of one KPL or SL, or else use the micro module, and create a "virtual" 3-way circuit. I have considered using micro dimmers in my bathroom, because it would enable me to use a "vintage"-style pushbutton switch by using the seldom-used sense input. So far, I have only deployed one micro-dimmer, in a closet. I replaced a glass-globe light with pull cord with a flat LED light. Since there were only hot and neutral in the box (and no protective ground!) I used a micro-dimmer, and put a battery-powered micro-switch on the wall outside of the closet.
Jeff_bull Posted January 28, 2017 Author Posted January 28, 2017 Any single switch I have uses a SL or KPL. The point here is using normal switches in there original places to control a light without having to replace all the switches to maintain the same configuration. This also allows me for $30 to add these to the other KPLs in the house. I have to maintain all switches for the WAF (Wife acceptance factor)
stusviews Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 Jeff, There's a great need to do what you've accomplished. My concern is your diagram. It's not possible. You must have omitted drawing some wires. Can you try again, listing the color of each wire? You can (and did) ignore any ground wires.
Jeff_bull Posted January 28, 2017 Author Posted January 28, 2017 I added a few details but I do not want to get to detailed as I am not a licensed electrician and this does not modify the existing wiring between switches in any way. The pic is just to understand the function of the switches in relation to the micro switch. Thanks for pointing it out and I hope this provides enough detail.
stusviews Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 Ok, your diagram shows power at each end. That's unlikely in most installations.
Teken Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Information Only: The price the OP is indicating is based on the ever changing stock of *Refurbished* hardware being sold for $29.99. The regular price of all the Micro Modules is $49.99, purchasing the 4 pack drops the costs down to $44.99 each. Baring a Insteon sale of 5-20% discount consumers should expect to pay the retail price unless a sale is present. Lastly, it should be fully understood all refurbished hardware come with a 30 day warranty. You do not enjoy the typical 2 year warranty coverage most of us have come to expect. Meaning if there is a failure you better hope it happens during the 30 day warranty period otherwise you are SOL. Having multiple devices buried inside a JBOX at ground level isn't anymore difficult vs a standard switch. But when these same modules are used extensively and hidden in high rise areas in the ceiling. One can only imagine the extremely low WAF when something goes wrong . . . My suggestion is to deploy all *Refurbished* hardware immediately and have them running for a 72 hour burn in period. If something is going to happen it most likely will show itself during what some call infant mortality syndrome. After the 72 hours burn in keep a close eye on those device well within the 30 day period to ensure they can be exchanged. Otherwise that $30.XX you believe you saved on isn't so much of a savings when they go poof . . .
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