Insteon Devices Dropping off

[dismania]

I just recently added 3 new switches to my ISY-994i system.  I think I am up to maybe 20 devices now.  Anyway, when I installed these devices, they paired and worked well.  Now, I have 2 of them that cannot communicate with the ISY.  I have tried deleting them and re-adding them, but the device does not even recognize they are trying to link.  Any ideas or suggestions?

 

It has started to grow in number of devices recently.  Some days 4-5 of my devices are said to not be communicating.

 

The one that has me most stumped is the one in my work room.  It is on the same circuit as the ISY and within 10 feet of it physically.

 

The devices are mostly standard on/off switches, but I do have one 2 wire device as there was no ground in the box currently.

 

Dismania

[Techman]

I just recently added 3 new switches to my ISY-994i system.  I think I am up to maybe 20 devices now.  Anyway, when I installed these devices, they paired and worked well.  Now, I have 2 of them that cannot communicate with the ISY.  I have tried deleting them and re-adding them, but the device does not even recognize they are trying to link.  Any ideas or suggestions?

 

It has started to grow in number of devices recently.  Some days 4-5 of my devices are said to not be communicating.

 

The one that has me most stumped is the one in my work room.  It is on the same circuit as the ISY and within 10 feet of it physically.

 

The devices are mostly standard on/off switches, but I do have one 2 wire device as there was no ground in the box currently.

 

Dismania

 

What are the model numbers of the switches you're having a problem with?

 

2 wire switches are RF only devices and require that you have a dual band device within close proximity.

You may also have interference on your powerline. Take a look at these troubleshooting tips.  http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON:_Troubleshooting_Communications_Errors

[Brian H]

How old is the PLM.

They have a habit of going bad after the two year warranty has expired.

 

Have you added or changed any electronics in the home?

Could also be an existing device deteriorating.

It could be power line noise or signal absorption as pointed out.

[stusviews]

The devices are mostly standard on/off switches, but I do have one 2 wire device as there was no ground in the box currently.

 

Virtually all boxes have a ground wire. Some really, really old ones may not. In any case, a ground wire is for safety. No Insteon device needs a ground wire to function. I'm guessing the you mean that there's no neutral wire

[dismania]

Ok, the issue I had was that there was not a neutral wire in the box and it was a 2 wire device and the room I need to control has 4 foot tube lights.  So, as you can imagine, the 2 wire device which is designed to work with incandescent only lights worked marginally.  So, I was having my electrical panel replaced and re-wired this week to get rid of grounding issues and to add a transfer switch for my emergency generator.  I spoke with the electrician and he suggested I grab a neutral from the box near it and run it in.  Since all the neutrals and grounds go to the same bar in the electrical panel, it should not matter.  So, I did that.  Installed a https://www.smarthome.com/togglelinc-relay-insteon-2466sw-remote-control-on-off-switch-non-dimming-white.html.

 

The switch works fine, lights now come on instantly without an issue, however, I cannot get my ISY hub to find it at all.  I cannot sync it, or add it manually.  Any ideas?  It is about 50 feet as the crow flies from my hub and about 30ft from the nearest Insteon switch that does work.

[Brian H]

Not a good idea to steal a Neutral from a different circuit.

Under some situations the total current in each circuit may all be flowing on one Neutral. Over loading the Neutral wires amperage rating.

[stusviews]

If the line wires from each circuit are on opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply, then the neutral carries the difference of the loads on each circuit. If the loads are equally balanced, then the neutral has no current through it. OTOH, if the line wires are not on opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply, then the neutral wire carries the sum of the loads on each circuit. The neutral wire is not protected by a breaker or fuse and can easily overheat and, at best, burn out or, at worst, cause a fire. If you have an ammeter, then you could measure each independent load. Of course that doesn't prevent someone from changing to a higher wattage bulb or plugging in a vacuum or other appliance.

 

Don't do it. That's very unsafe. I'm really amazed that an electrician said it was OK.

 

Edit: it's easy to change some connections and add a Micro Module to overcome the lack of a neutral wire in a switch box. And vastly safer.