Automatic door locks with “pushy” doors

[TrojanHorse]

Wasn’t sure where to post this.

I’d like to incorporate automated locks. Maybe these would be my first z-wave devices although I’m ears to any option.

I’ve not yet gone down this path since some of my doors require let’s say a firm push while turning the deadbolt to allow it to latch. Maybe the answer is fix the doors first, but wondering if anyone has had success in similar situations. Putting some sort of spring / closing mechanism to keep them closed isn’t really an option here with youngins since I imagine it would force the door closed too hard on little fingers. Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.

 

 

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[lilyoyo1]

Fix the door first. If you're having to press and hold just to lock your doors now, the benefit of automated locks will be lost.

[stusviews]

If the door needs a firm push, then only a firm push will work. Even an automatic sliding door closer wont' work if the pressure to close the door exceeds what the closer is capable of. Fix the door or have it fixed. You'll be glad you did. So will the little fingers

[TrojanHorse]

Fix the door first. If you're having to press and hold just to lock your doors now, the benefit of automated locks will be lost.

Thought that was the case. Hence why I haven’t done it or even asked the question until now but thought it was worth a shot. Thanks

 

 

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[TrojanHorse]

If the door needs a firm push, then only a firm push will work. Even an automatic sliding door closer wont' work if the pressure to close the door exceeds what the closer is capable of. Fix the door or have it fixed. You'll be glad you did. So will the little fingers

Thanks. I probably could use new doors anyway...

 

 

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[TrojanHorse]

Okay so then what do people use and / or recommend?

On cocoontech forum I’ve often seen regular contributors suggest strike plate locks. If I’m starting with new doors I could do that. Thoughts?

 

Edit: maybe that’s not the exact right term, but the idea is they are relay controlled (would use Elk here)

 

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[stusviews]

Door locks always include striker plates. Those for exterior doors are usually "firmer" than interior door striker plates. Are you doors wood or something else? Exterior or interior? Doors can be purchased with or without a frame.

 

IMO, if you're replacing an exterior door, go for the best quality you can afford, even a bit more. Don't forget to include finishing, inside and out (e.g., paint, varnish, etc.).

[TrojanHorse]

Door locks always include striker plates. Those for exterior doors are usually "firmer" than interior door striker plates. Are you doors wood or something else? Exterior or interior? Doors can be purchased with or without a frame.

 

IMO, if you're replacing an exterior door, go for the best quality you can afford, even a bit more. Don't forget to include finishing, inside and out (e.g., paint, varnish, etc.).

Thanks Stu

 

I edited my post as it was unclear. I’m asking about electronic strike plate locks that are relay controlled as a possible option.

I only need automated locks on exterior doors. Would buy with frame since I I think part of the issue is that as the house has shifted and settled over 20 years here in the MN cold (and summer heat / humidity) the frame should be replaced too. Also with new frame for aesthetics and good fit.

Not sure yet what material I would choose for new doors. Existing is some type of composite or fiberglass I think.

 

 

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[stusviews]

What you are referring to is called an electric strike and requires running power to the strike, nearly always withing the door jamb. There are basically two varieties, fail-safe and fail-secure. Both allow egress if power is lost.

 

Fail-safe locks unlock when power is removed and remain locked as long as they're powered. Fail-secure locks remain locked if the power fails and require power to unlock them except as noted above.

 

I was thinking more of a battery powered lock such as a Schlage or Yale Z-Wave lock, but an electric strike is certainly viable. You may want to add an exterior keypad to control the lock(s) form the outside and a keypad or push button for the interior.

 

I don't know what's commonly used for exterior doors in MN.

[TrojanHorse]

What you are referring to is called an electric strike and requires running power to the strike, nearly always withing the door jamb. There are basically two varieties, fail-safe and fail-secure. Both allow egress if power is lost.

 

Fail-safe locks unlock when power is removed and remain locked as long as they're powered. Fail-secure locks remain locked if the power fails and require power to unlock them except as noted above.

 

I was thinking more of a battery powered lock such as a Schlage or Yale Z-Wave lock, but an electric strike is certainly viable. You may want to add an exterior keypad to control the lock(s) form the outside and a keypad or push button for the interior.

 

I don't know what's commonly used for exterior doors in MN.

Thanks for the feedback. I will post back when I decide what to do. Will be a spring or summer project here.

 

 

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[lilyoyo1]

I would do a prehung door over simply getting a door installed. More money but much much better fit and finish.

 

I use standard zwave electronic door locks. I currently have Yale touchscreens but when be swapping them out once kwikset releases their new obsidian zwave models.

 

If you decide to go with standard locks, it really comes down to personal preference. Stick with the major brands and you should be ok.

[DrLumen]

You could just move the striker plate(s) so the locks aren't in a bind. Drill out the hole in the jamb for the bolt and/or strike and then move, file or bend the striker plates. Even if you replaced the door, once you get the weather stripping in place you could be back where you are now or worse. You could be out of alignment on the other side causing the lock to be too loose.

 

If there is a sliding door that is hard to lock then it is likely out of square and could be fixed fairly easily by shimming the corners.

 

Or, just call a locksmith. They are familiar with these types of issues and can fix the problems.

[Jimbo.Automates]

The schlage's bolt is shaped so this may not be a problem. One of my doors required a light push due to the weather strip, but the tapered shape of the schlage bolt worked perfectly.

 

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[TrojanHorse]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I assumed this was a carpentry project for me, but talking to a locksmith might be a good alternative.

The problem I foresee with moving the strike plates slightly is that the screws will want to go back into the same existing holes. I know there are ways around this including filling them and waiting for them to dry or replacing the wood etc. but at some point one wants a new boat rather than figuring out the most efficient way to use buckets to get the water out so to speak.

Will look into locks with a tapered bolt. Anyone done a kick-down test on those?

 

 

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[Jimbo.Automates]

I'm no expert on this stuff, but the Schlage Connect is BHMA/ANSI Grade 1 certified, the highest residential rating. That was actually one of the reasons I chose the BE469

 

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[stusviews]

Hanging doors, most especially, exterior doors, is usually not in the realm of a locksmith, although locksmiths do have contact with professionals who do that. Most often, that job is done by a carpenter or other construction personnel or even, me. I'm available during any weather that doen't require a jacket

 

BTW, have you selected between a remote controllable lock and an electric strike? What do you have now? Also, electric strikes are most commonly used in commercial settings (e.g., factories), residential gates and apartment building entries. But, I've never worked anywhere in your area, so I'm not familiar with what the standards are there.

[TrojanHorse]

Hanging doors, most especially, exterior doors, is usually not in the realm of a locksmith, although locksmiths do have contact with professionals who do that. Most often, that job is done by a carpenter or other construction personnel or even, me. I'm available during any weather that doen't require a jacket

 

BTW, have you selected between a remote controllable lock and an electric strike? What do you have now? Also, electric strikes are most commonly used in commercial settings (e.g., factories), residential gates and apartment building entries. But, I've never worked anywhere in your area, so I'm not familiar with what the standards are there.

Well today was around 35F with little wind and jackets felt optional so it’s all relative ⛄️

 

I’d say I agree that I need new pre hung doors. But I won’t swap doors here until the weather eases up. I always prefer hardwired anything over wireless. So that’s why I consider something other than battery powered locks. Electric strikes would be unusual here at a residence. But that said I’m unusual, as I suspect everyone on this forum is.

 

 

 

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[DrLumen]

Hanging doors, most especially, exterior doors, is usually not in the realm of a locksmith, although locksmiths do have contact with professionals who do that. Most often, that job is done by a carpenter or other construction personnel or even, me. I'm available during any weather that doen't require a jacket

 

BTW, have you selected between a remote controllable lock and an electric strike? What do you have now? Also, electric strikes are most commonly used in commercial settings (e.g., factories), residential gates and apartment building entries. But, I've never worked anywhere in your area, so I'm not familiar with what the standards are there.

 

I wasn't suggesting to get a locksmith to install a door. They do install locks in doors though and know how to  get things to line up and make it secure.

 

Hell, for that matter, you could plane the inside of the door stops and replace the weather strip. Or, maybe the weatherstrip is causing it to bind up. Or, the door is warped a little, hitting at a corner and can be planed and painted (assuming a wood door). If you can't raise the bridge, lower the river. In this instance you are probably only talking about 1/16".

 

As to replacing the door, to each their own... Sometimes cost is not a concern. I like new too but I have to admit that I would find an alternative before replacing a $400 door because the lock needed to be tweaked.