drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 My goal for now is to be able to view the status of my garage door (open or closed) and also to issue commands to open or close the door. I want to be able to do this remotely (from my office computer, or from my smartphone). Been researching this and I think i need the I/O Linc - INSTEON Garage Door Control & Status kit. I believe I would also need the ISY-99i with a PLM and power supply. Is there anything else that I would need ? Been browsing the posts and most of the time I see references to a KPL or something else. I just want to monitor and or control the garage door from a computer at the office or from my web enabled smartphone.
LeeG Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Sounds like you have no Insteon installed presently. Along with what you have identified you will need at least one Access Point or other Dual Band device to couple the two 120V legs. The Smarthome web site covers the need to couple the 120V legs. A KeypadLinc is often used to indicate door status and control door movement for folks who do not want to have a computer running 24/7. Is not mandatory, all can be done from the computer but can be useful.
drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 I thought the ISY acts as an access point as well. Is that incorrect ?
LeeG Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 The 2413S Dual Band PLM will provide half the coupling. A second Dual Band device such as an Access Point provides the other. There is some evidence the Access Point has slightly better range than some of the wired Dual Band devices. Plus it can be moved around to different outlets until one is found that is on the opposite 120V leg to the PLM and within RF range. The ISY itself has no RF or powerline communication capability. It uses the PLM for that.
hoopty Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 If you only want garage door control and the PLM is plugged into a circuit that uses the same leg as the garage door, then you wouldn't need the access point. That's the setup I started with. ISY, PLM, and a couple of I/O Lincs.
drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Yes sorry - I meant the PLM which come with ISY. So the "2443 - Smarthome Insteon Access Point & Phase Coupler" would be appropriate ?
drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 If you only want garage door control and the PLM is plugged into a circuit that uses the same leg as the garage door, then you wouldn't need the access point. That's the setup I started with. ISY, PLM, and a couple of I/O Lincs. Sorry I am newbie in all this - how can I detect if it the PLM would be in the same "leg" ?
LeeG Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Not sure of the question. Are you asking how to determine if the Access Point and the Dual Band PLM are on the same or opposite 120V legs? If that is the question the Quick Start and User Guides for both the PLM and the Access Point describe the procedure for determining RF reception and correct coupling. The LED on both devices will indicate based on blinking and color. If that was not the question please expand.
drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Not sure of the question. Are you asking how to determine if the Access Point and the Dual Band PLM are on the same or opposite 120V legs? If that is the question the Quick Start and User Guides for both the PLM and the Access Point describe the procedure for determining RF reception and correct coupling. The LED on both devices will indicate based on blinking and color. If that was not the question please expand. I was referring to what hoopsty said : PLM is plugged into a circuit that uses the same leg as the garage door, then you wouldn't need the access point I don't have the ISY yet - just trying to see if I really need an access point so I can order everything at the same time.
hoopty Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 The easiest way would be to open your panel and put a voltmeter across the two circuit breakers and if it reads ~240 volts they are on separate legs. If it reads 0 volts they share the same leg. If you aren't comfortable with that, you could just try it without the access point and see if it works. If it doesn't, you could always order the access point later and add it as necessary. Edit: fixed error in voltage readings.
drinkwater Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Ok - thanks for everyone's help. I guess I will get an access point as well. Will probably need one at some point anyway. Last question - is this what I need : "2443 - Smarthome Insteon Access Point & Phase Coupler"
LeeG Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 That is the Access Point. Most folks who start using Insteon for one application move on to addition Insteon installation where you will need coupling for sure. You made the right decision. Starting out with an ISY is a substantial investment. The cost of an Access Point is noise by comparison. Measuring across circuit breakers on opposite 120V legs produces 240V. That is what constitutes a 240V circuit, two breakers on opposite 120V legs. Unless you have been handling electrical wiring and know what you are doing, NEVER take the power panel cover off, let alone go probing for various voltage readings (no disrespect intended hoopty). There is stuff in there that can easily be fatal. Welcome to the world of ISY. You will enjoy.
hoopty Posted February 11, 2012 Posted February 11, 2012 Oops, sorry, meant 240V not 120. Brain ****... And yes, when you do figure the cost of the AP in the big scheme of things, it is a minor cost. And I agree, once you get started, inevitably you'll end up adding more and needing it anyway.
drinkwater Posted February 19, 2012 Author Posted February 19, 2012 I have a Chamberlain garage door opener with a LED door panel. When I send a command to open/close the door via ISY, the door panel loses power and then comes back on. I saw the following post which describes the same situation : http://www.smarthome.com/FORUM/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6518 Acccording to that post, it seems that the IOLinc relay wires have to be connected directly to the door panel. Attached are 2 screenshots of my door panel (front and back). Basically, there are two square looking push swithches which when pressed open/close the garage door. I highlighted in red the location. Can anyone help on what/where exactly I have to solder some wires on the door panel circuit board to connect to the IOLinc ?
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