Xathros

Exactly. Sorry. What I posted is what my system does. If an outside light is turned on during the day, it turns back off instantly. No need to have it on in daylight - even for a minute. -Xathros Edited for spelling

OK. That makes more sense. From what I have read here since the dual band devices started rolling out, these devices have rather minimal range and are often very directional making them poor choices for bridging a significant distance. I would think a pair of access points arranged as close to line of sight as possible would be a better choice. I have to wonder if you are actually communicating via powerline through a common utility transformer rather than via RF. -Xathros

For what its worth, I believe that the IOLincs are NOT dual band devices and therefore, they are NOT sending RF but rather powerline only communications. I have some Insteon devices at the far end of a 300' run out to my barn that work quite well but there is nothing out there that could generate noise or attenuate signal beyond the extreme wire length to get there. 100' should be just fine if noise makers and signal suckers are filtered. -Xathros

Welcome to the forum! Many of us do something quite similar. There are several approaches to this. You can have one program monitor the status of many devices and send a scene Off to the All Outside scene if one or more are on during the specified time frame: If ( Status Ouside Light 1 is On or Status Outside Light 2 is On or Status Post Light 1 is On or Status Porch Light Is On ) And Time is From Sunrise to Sunset (same day) Then Set Scene AllOutsideLights Off Else Or you can monitor each light individually: If Status PorchLight is On And Time is From Sunrise to Sunset (same day) Then Set PorchLight Off Else Depends on your needs. -Xathros

One other note on this: Don't toggle between Enabled and disabled more than once every few minutes or DD-WRT (mine at least) becomes unhappy and needs a reboot. As long as you wait for the last request to become effective before placing a new request, its all good. -Xathros.

I agree, though I don't suspect it would be any more confusing than the IOLinc trigger reverse when queried issue. And since they decided to ship the wrong type switch with the Garage door kit, it might help the situation to some extent. I also share your viewpoint on SmartLab's willingness to listen to/react to end user input. -Xathros

Sorry, I didn't read that carefully enough and missed those pairs. My understanding has been that Level 0 is LED off and level 15 is LED as bright as it gets. Your tests seem to indicate that the LED on level can get one step brighter than 15 by setting On to 0 and Off to >0 or did I misinterpret your results? I was kind of hoping that your test would show the ability to reverse the LED state by setting an Off level higher than On level but this clearly proves that isn't possible. I wonder if it would be worth a request to SmartLabs as that is likely something they could change in firmware for future models. Once again, UDI is ahead of the game with support for a feature that SmartLabs hasn't even considered yet. Thank you for all of your time on these tests. I hope someday soon my schedule will lighten up enough for me to have more time to experiment. -Xathros

Possibly. I thought it was holding it on, but I may be confusing it with other devices. I think some very old devices (Icon maybe) entered linking mode by holding On for 5 seconds. Even my oldest v.31 Togglelinc has a combo set button/airgap switch. -Xathros

So then it seems that SH dropped the forced 8 difference at somepoint in the later firmwares. All of my KPLD's are V41 and this backs up what I have found with my limited batch of settings. Did you happen to test the 0 On Level with a Off Level greater than 0? Xathros

I believe you meant to say "Press and hold the Toggleinc SET button until beeps (usually around five seconds)" -Xathros

POST /apply.cgi HTTP/1.1 Host: xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:80 User-Agent: Mozilla/4.0 Connection: Close Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded Accept-Encoding: gzip,deflate DNT: 1 Referer: http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/Filters.asp Authorization: Basic == Content-Length: 219 Accept: text/html,application/xhtml+xml,application/xml;q=0.9,*/*;q=0.8 submit_button=Filters&action=ApplyTake&change_action=&submit_type=&blocked_service=&filter_web=&filter_policy=&filter_p2p=0&f_status=1&f_id=1&f_status1=enable&f_name=Deny+List&f_status2=deny&day_all=1&time_all=1&allday= I captured the above details by watching Firefox's web console when clicking the Apply button in DD-WRT after clicking the Enable radio button on this Policy. The web console if very useful in figuring out how to craft a network resource rule. Timeout: 4000, Raw Text, URL Encode unchecked. In the DD-WRT Router: Policy #1 Policy Name: Deny List Everyday Checked 24 Hrs Selected Edit List and add the necessary MAC addresses. Something to be aware of, this only prevents Internet access not the ability to associate with the LAN. -Xathros

Thanks Lee I not quite sure that I understand what you mean in tests 2&3 when you say "no change over On level increases; On level increases incrementally" I'm guessing this means that in these tests, there is no change to the On level brightness until you have a separation greater than 8 between the off and on levels. Or am I misunderstanding? -Xathros

I am using the Access control list in my DD-WRT router (Under the Access Restrictions tab). I have built a list of MAC addresses that should not have access when the rule is enabled. Those are the xboxes, ipods, AppleTV etc. Then I enable/disable that rule with a network resources call. It seems to take a minute or two to take effect but it works like a charm. I have a toggle program in my Mobilinc favorites that allows me to flip that switch anytime I need to right from my iPhone but usually it just runs on a schedule in the ISY. -Xathros

I do this using a variable to determine if the fan was manually turned on or not. Something like this: If ( Control Bathroom Fan is Switched On Or Control Bathroom Fan is switched FastOn ) And ( Control Bathroom Fan is not Switched Off or Control Bathroom Fan is not Switched Fast Off ) Then $i.AutoFanDisable=1 Else $i.AutoFanDisable=0 If #s.BathroomHumid >= 65 And i.AutoFanDisable=0 Then Set Bathroom Fan On If $s.BathroomHumid < 65 And i.AutoFanDisable = 0 Then Set Bathroom Fan Off -Xathros

Thanks LeeG. That makes sense. Is the factory default effectively 8/0? I'll have to play with this a bit more. It really seems like 3/0 is dimmer but I haven't actually watched at the time when they dim to see if it changes. -Xathros

I believe that KPL buttons can not be adjusted individually. The On/Off LED brightness levels apply to all buttons on the KPL. -Xathros

LeeG- Are you sure? The way it seems to me is that the KPL (dimmer at least) forces a MINIMUM of 8 between Off and On LED Levels IF and Only IF the Off value is greater than 0. The drop down in the ISY seems to back that up as seen here: That said, I'm not at home right now and can't actually test to verify that 15/0 works as I believe but as you can see from my screenshot, I have a value of 3/0 set for my bedroom KPL after dark and that works just fine. EDIT: And in addition, I just noticed something that might help with some of the garage door trigger reverse removal issues that we see. Notice the first block of 8 options for the LED level appear to allow the reversal of the LED state (LED On when the button is Off and LED Off when the button is On) I will have to test that tonight if I get a free moment. -Xathros

Additionally, a repeat statement is also a point where a program can re-evaluate is conditions have changed. -Xathros

Anytime! -Xathros

Actually, if you are already comfortable with ISY programming, then REST is not going to be anything difficult for you. Get the documentation from: http://www.universal-devices.com/developers/wsdk/4.0.5/ISY-WSDK-4.0.5.zip Launch a browser and start playing with /rest commands and in no time you will be on your way. -Xathros

Both 443 and 80 are open on the ISY by default. You can change the port numbers if you need to. You should only forward the SSL port (443 or whtever you change it to) and use port 80 only inside your lan. The Enable Internet Access is a UPNP feature that will attempt to auto configure UPNP enabled routers for forwarding and is not required is you manually forward ports. -Xathros Edited to correct spelling.

I have 2 Toggleinc switches installed in my barn. While they are inside, it is not climate controlled and they are exposed to the full range of temperature and humidity swings here in New England. I have seen condensation on the metal box that the switches are installed in on a few occasions. After 2 years in there they still work as well as they did on day one. You might consider a switch cover like one of these: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00010990/k-G0817476?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKK167KelLkCFcme4AodRmQAyw -Xathros

I think I have one of these modules in my parts box. I will see if I can arrange a bench test this weekend and post my findings. -Xathros

Unless I completely misunderstood, oberkc's quote of the micro module's manual indicates that this option DOES exist in the current production modules. -Xathros

You forgot weatherproof and POE. -Xathros