peterathans

I've done half of the solution you're talking about - basically I have the same Zooz ZEN16 with one input tied to a magnetic switch (Used this one from Amazon) to monitor whether the door is closed or not. I don't feel comfortable yet giving control of the door to my home controller, just because I don't see it as 100% reliable. So I'm not using a relay to "press the button".

I'm curious, where do you see the signal strength report? I've got the ZMatter dongle and a handful of 700 and 800 series switches (which should all default to 700 series in the absence of an 800 series controller) and don't have any communication issues at all. The nearest switches are several rooms away from ZMatter. I can even communicate with an outdoor plug that's in the back yard, inside a block-and-rebar BBQ island.

I have linked three Zooz Zen71 switches (on/off) into a scene to use as a 4-way circuit, and they work great. However these are on/off switches, not dimmers, so I don't know if the specific case you're looking for is possible (but you would think it is, since the on/off switches work). I should mention too these are grouped using Basic Association 2, which links the switches directly (not through the controller), so they work similarly to the Insteon scene linking. You might want to follow this user guide topic on Zwave scenes.

First Alert does have a Zwave model, but it's battery-only (no hardwired power). In my application I prefer/need both, so using a more generic detector with the ZEN55 add-on worked best for me.

I know nobody asked, but I highly recommend SmartWings shades. I just added two with a Zwave interface (using ZMatter on Polisy) and couldn't be happier.

If you're just looking to replace the smoke detectors and gain an input to your control system, I'd suggest using whatever model/brand you prefer and adding a Zooz ZEN55 (you must have interconnected detectors). This allows you to use a brand you prefer, and probably a more economical solution than a fancy Nest model - plus the ZEN55 reports out separate alarms for smoke and CO.

Thanks for the help, got it working!

After reading a similar thread, I've become interested in using the iOS Shortcuts support to trigger a REST command and run a program (or a Then or Else). I was able to trigger the program from a Chrome tab using the simple command http://192.168.160.31:8080/rest/programs/0009/runThen But making a shortcut for Get contents of and using the same command as above (and with a GET method), nothing happens. Possibly it's because the first time I ran this in Chrome I was prompted for a username and password, but on the iPhone I didn't get challenged. Probably a simple answer to this, but hard to find a solution online. Any help would be appreciated!

We just finished a kitchen remodel and I'm using the Zooz Zen72-800LR dimmers to control outlets. Into the outlets I've plugged in these dimmable LED strip drivers. They work fantastic and can dim smoothly down to zero.

@Techman thanks for the link, but what I've found is that some of the information is out of date and sometimes vague. For example, this wiki was last edited 9/2020 (almost 4 years ago). In the section Scene Link Types, it lists Native, Default, Command, and Ignore, but these appear out of date (instead of Native, I see Z-Wave Basic MC S2 Auth, which I assume is the replacement and works equivalently, as the other options are the same). Also, the sub-sections after this talk about "Association between controller and responder", "Indirect control...", etc but doesn't describe how or when you'd want to use these different scenarios. And it talks about "Adding a controller" and "Adding a responder", but what about cases where you want two (or more) switches to act as both controllers and responders? If there are two (or more) switches in a Scene, do they all need to be configured the same way (i.e., Z-Wave Basic MC S2 Auth) for them to all work as a true n-way switch setup?

I'm looking for help from the community after several months of troubleshooting and frustration, hoping someone else has some suggestions. I've been trying to link two simple Zwave on/off switches together to use virtual 3-way switch behavior. Theoretically this is possible, using Associations (making them work like Scenes in the Insteon world). Unfortunately I've had limited success. I've submitted several trouble tickets to get help (both with UD and Zooz) but this hasn't led to definitive solutions. I'm guessing that the issue is possibly related to how I'm configuring the switches and Polisy, and am looking for a simple, straightforward procedure for linking two (or more) switches into a virtual group. There's a handful of posts addressing this topic, but they are either for unique scenarios (i.e., one switch linked to a motion sensor) or have a series of addendums as people learned how things work (i.e., follow this procedure in post #4, but in post #9 someone says the earlier post isn't 100% correct and a few steps should be changed), making it difficult to know if I've got the right steps. Does anyone have a clear, concise procedure I can follow?

I looked at the First Alert Zwave detectors mentioned earlier, but they are battery only - my house also has hardwired power to the detectors and I want to make use of that. My solution was to add a Zen55 at one of the alarms (it monitors the interconnect circuit, so will report smoke and CO alarms but can't tell you which specific detector is tripped). The nice thing is you can use any brand of smoke/CO alarm, and then write your own programs to take whatever actions you like. I just send myself and my wife a text and UDMobile alert, but may do more in the future.

I think I agree - the shifted clock reading affects both the sunrise and sunset times, and so is "baked into" the averaging calculation.

I think it's more complicated that that, mostly due to time changes (Daylight Savings Time). I suppose if we had a flag available that reports whether we're in DST or not, we could adjust the rise & set average by an hour?

Funny, I have been thinking about this lately too - we're doing a kitchen remodel that will include new Smartwings shades. The windows are on the west wall and I'd like to lower the shades after we get direct sunlight (shortly after the sun is directly overhead). I'm interested in any solutions that come up!