Guy Lavoie

I'd try a factory reset on the switch, then adding it back to your system.

Support for scenes and programs hasn't been added yet.

No, they don't need to. The alternate login URL (without a port number) to the admin condole is a user convenience, giving you seamless access to the portal and PG3 without needing to re-enter a user id and password.

The current product (eisy) has all those modules built-in as standard. To use Zwave, you'll need to get either the ZMatter dongle sold by UDI, or get a Zooz 700 series Zwave stick, if you can find one.

Eisy-ui is still in development, and doesn't support editable things like scenes and programs yet.

Yes, you can still do so. You can choose to work either way. If you look at the URL entries in IoX finder, you will see whether a port number is defined or not. It always used to be "https://<ip address>:8443/desc" and if you use that, it will ask you your usual admin login and password. If you have an entry without a port number, such as "https://<ip address>/desc", then that will bring you to the login screen where it asks you for your portal login and password.

So if you have an entry without a port number and you'd like to login with your IoX admin name and password instead, create a new URL entry in IoX finder using the Add button.

As often happens, you sometimes need to recreate the URL manually in IoX Finder, the first time (click on the Add button, then enter "https://<ip address>:8443/desc" )
When you pointed a browser to the IP of the eisy, you got the new eisy-ui screen. This is still in development and will eventually become the replacement for the admin console. But it's not anywhere near finished yet. No program editor, etc. yet. Right now it's more of a device dash board allowing you to see and control devices directly.

In the Program content window (top window), click on "Add And (..)" at the bottom right corner. This will add two parenthesis  lines to your program. Then move the parenthesis lines up or down to where you want them.

Try a resync of UD Mobile. Press on the three little dots at top right and then "Synchronize". This is normal after changes.

In Admin Console, did you just click on "Start Linking" or did you scroll down to "Link a Sensor" -> "Leak Sensor"?

Alternately, click on "Start Linking" (under Link Management at the top in Iox) and then press the link button on the keypad module.

The second one seems to best reflect what you want to do, visually. Both are actually equivalent. 

It's specified elsewhere, but you need to snap off the top half of the card before installing it in the enclosure.

Well you need to know exactly what you have first. If the bulb has a QR code printed on it along with a pairing code in the format XXXX-XXX-XXXX then it should be a Matter device. Cync is the name of a product line, not all of which are Matter. Sometimes you'll also get a printed copy of the QR code printed on a separate sheet, but it won't be on the packaging, since each code is unique. The second thing is that you need to know if it communicates via wifi or Thread. Chances are it's wifi for most line powered devices (though I have nanoleaf bulbs that are Thread). Assuming it's wifi, you should be ok with your current hardware. 
I just googled "Cync Reveal" and it's not showing as being a Matter device. You would see the Matter logo on the packaging (looks like three arrowheads pointing towards each other) so I don't think you'll get very far with those bulbs. They seem to be wifi bulbs that are compatible with Google home and Alexa (the most common platforms), Homekit isn't listed so it looks like you're out of luck there too.

That's the correct format, though you might need to add the port number too. I just tested this on my own eisy
http://admin:<password>@192.168.0.145:8080/rest/vars/set/2/2/2
It correctly changed state variable id 2

UDI would like you to open a ticket for that problem. They'll get your controller recovered.

Or look here (scroll down to tokenworker's post).
 

If the light is triggered from another scene it won't work. You would need to add your KPL H button as a responder to that other scene.

You can't have a scene trigger another scene (though it can be done with a program and using the Virtual plugin). Instead, you should simply create a new 3rd scene, that involves all the lights that you want it to control. Individual lights can be responders to dozens of scenes if you wish.

Instead of using "control" (is switched on) use the "status" for the If command. That way the Wait statement will execute for it's time interval. Test it with a short time initially, like 15 seconds.

Instead of using "control" (is switched on) use the "status" for the If command. That way the Wait statement will execute for it's time interval. Test it with a short time initially, like 15 seconds.

It was mentioned several weeks ago that all portal renewals were now one year only.

Auto usually means that it will automatically switch between heating and cooling modes as needed (you set the heating and cooling setpoints and it heats and cools as needed to maintain the temperature within that range). Program usually means it follows the programmed time schedule, while hold tells it to override the program and just use the current setpoints continuously.
If you're just playing around with it, how are you triggering heat and cool events? Normally if you set the heat setpoint to a temperature above the current indicated temperature, you should see it go into heat mode. Same with setting the cool setpoint below the current temperature to trigger cooling mode. 

Right here:
https://polyglot.universal-devices.com/

Well that would be whatever the actual command you are using would be. I was assuming that you had this set up already and that you had noticed that the door would activate no matter if you asked it to open or close.
If you haven't really set anything up yet, I would suggest that you set up the garage door device in the portal to set a variable, to make it single triggering. It would be something like this: Make the Alexa Open command set (let's call it the Door_command_variable) to 1, and the Alexa Close command set it to 2. Now the program logic would go like this:
If Door_command_variable = 1
    And Tilt sensor variable = "closed"
      Then Open door
      Then Door_command_variable = 0
 
If Door_command_variable = 2
    And Tilt sensor variable = "open"
        Then Close door
        Then Door_command_variable = 0
 
Setting the variable back to 0 makes sure that nothing will happen until a new, valid command is issued.