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kevkmartin

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  1. My doorbell button triggers an ELK zone. ISY set up with network resource that responds to that zone going closed. Network resource URL causes execution of a PERL script on my HA server that takes a snapshot from two different cams by the door, and e-nails them to me.
  2. Under 5.x, you can store system time to a variable when the pump comes on / off and get the run time via subtraction. This is how I now do all runtime calculations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Correct. There are no power connections to the sensor whatsoever.
  4. Use mp3gain to normalize all of the mp3 files. http://mp3gain.sourceforge.net
  5. No. No high voltage connections are made to the sensor at all. It is completely passive. The black wire (hot) is just looped through a hole in the sensor (inside the junction box) before connecting to the outlet terminal.
  6. The whole point here is NOT to put a device ( which can fail and result in the sump pump not working) in-line with the power feed to the pump.
  7. For the pump, you just plug it into the outlet that is fed by the hot (black) wire that loops through the sensor core. The two visible screws are a “dry contact” that is open when the pump is off, and closed when the pump is on, so you would connect one to common on IOLINC, and the other to NO (Normally Open).
  8. Thanks! This gave me the best separation of LV / HV. I ended up running it to an ELK zone and using that to monitor / log.
  9. Leaving the LV connection on the outside gave me complete separation of LV / HV. I thought about getting a “single gang double plate” and cutting out, but then the mount screws would have been exposed. I could have done that with a box divider too, I acknowledge. In the end, it’s all hidden in a sump pit wiring closet anyway.
  10. It was a blank decora filler plate that I mounted the switch to.
  11. I finally gave up on the Synchrolinc to monitor on / off and run time for the sump pump. I could never get it dialed in to read reliably - especially on times. That combined with reports I read that an internal fuse can fail - disabling the pump - made me finally go with the solution I had been putting off. I installed an outlet and a Mamac CT-800 current sensor in a 2-gang box. The upper and lower outlets are independent (broke the tab), so that only the bottom outlet is sensed by the CT-800. Testing this with an IOLinc seems much more instant and reliable than the Synchrolinc. Ultimately, I think I'm going to run the sense wires back to a zone on the ELK. That should make it virtually bulletproof.
  12. I have used the lever version. They hold VERY tightly - I could not physically pull wires out of them once clamped. While I wouldn’t use them EVERYWHERE, they are very useful if you have a short wire in the box, or have 5 wires to join together. They are also very useful for ELK speaker wires. They work very well with solid and stranded.
  13. If you are going to buy cameras, don't fall into the MP hype. The new Dahua Starlight 2MP cameras BLOW AWAY just about everything else out there right now. I'm currently in the process of replacing about a dozen 3 and 4 MP HikVision with these: http://www1.dahuasecurity.com/products/ipc-hdw5231r-z-3651.html INCREDIBLE upgrade.
  14. I use two insteon motion sensors at the top corners of the garage door, "cross firing" onto the driveway across two cars. Programmatically, I require BOTH sensors be triggered within 10 seconds to kick off other actions. This has proven to be an effective way to "control" false alarms.
  15. I was wondering how you were getting along with the voice announcements. I'm an active participant in that thread. I love my talking house!!!
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