MWareman

PROMs that can be erased with UV light are EPROMs (Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory) PROMs that can be erased electrically (no need for the UV light) are EEPROMs (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory) If it was truly a PROM - they are writable only once. There is no window to erase them. Also, 6592.Cool.. I learned my first assembler programming on 6502... and for sure one of my high school electronics projects I built a switching phone system around a 6502..

The RESTful call, what do you have in the Host box for the network resource? If it is 127.0.0.1 there is a known issue that causes ISY to become very unresponsive. If this is the case, change it to the actual lan IP address... Edit: Red herring. I didn’t read properly. However, anyone that uses a network resource to call the ISY itself needs to know this issue exists.

Nice feature. Finally, Alexa can do the same voice shortcuts that Google Home has been able to do all along... Makes my FireTVs even better...

Self signed certificates are never secure from mitm proxies - and usernames and passwords can easily be intercepted if the network you are connected to has dpi on their network. Unless the app does SSL pinning, which I don’t think MobiLinc does. The only way around that is a paid, trusted certificate. Cheapest I’ve found is $15/year... http://www.garrisonhost.com/ssl-certificates/alphassl.html There is also a free option (Lets Encrypt), but the Certs are only valid for 90 days. You would have to renew manually because the ISY does not have the Lets Encrypt client renewal agent on board.

+1 for this feature. Having the Portal send the room a device has been configured with the Google Home...

Personally, I like Google Homes voice recognition much better. It also recognizes each family member separately, which is nice. However, there are some integrations that are only available on Alexa. I think Google Homes integration with IFTTT is much better than Alexa’s - somewhat making up for that. We switched because we subscribe to Google Play - and that does not work so well on Alexa...

I hooked a dpdt relay (with a 24vac coil) up to my bell push (so the bell push switches the relay on and off instead of ringing the bell). I then wired one pole of the relay as if it were the bell push to ring the bell - all from the bells native 24vac transformer. This gives normal bell functionality and an extra dry contact. I took the second pole of the relay and wired it to an iolinc. The iolinc triggers a program on ISY that makes a network call to a Ubuntu host I have running a php script. The php script gets the current image from the camera, saves it with a guid based name into a folder that’s within the Apache published root. The PHP then sends a pushover notification with a link to the image. Somewhat convoluted, but it’s worked for me for a couple of years now. I have a secondary trigger driven from an Insteon motion sensor in the porch...

I have AAA send me all-hazards alerts via SMS to a Flowroute number (my VoIP provider) for my specific geography. That in turn calls an API at my home that runs a PHP script to perform a variety of things depending on the message. Tornado Warnings cause a voice alert on my Elk with visual indications flashing lights and turning on lights to route the way to the basement. Not free, granted. But it works well so far... and it only costs a couple of cents to rx each sms.. I use the same API for generally receiving SMS messages thru Flowroute, and if not from AAA they get forwarded to my cell phones via Pushover.

A zwave backup backs up the zwave chip onto the filesystem of the ISY. You then need to backup the ISY, bringing the zwave backup with the rest of the ISY confit to your pc for safe keeping.

Oh well, worth a try...

Hey, just found this out. Try saying ‘Hey Google, change temperature to Fahrenheit’ and see if that helps...

In the Home app, at the very bottom of the device settings it lists the country code the Home device is registered to. Mine says ‘US’ and appears to be working in Fahrenheit. I don’t know how to change it, but might be a point to look at...

Did you apply spokens to the device, or a scene? Status can only be obtained about devices....

+1 on the Dashbox. Other than graphing historical data, it can also update variables on the ISY via its REST API over the lan, so no Zigbee needed at all. You can then go with the Zwave version of ISY instead...

I’ve just noticed that asking what the thermostat is set to returns the currently sensed temperature rather than the set point. My set point is currently 74, but the stat is reading 75 right now. Asking Home returned 75 when I would expect the setpoint of 74, I would expect asking for the inside temperature to return 75 (in my case).

Be careful, there are two different Zigbee ISYs, one for use with grid ‘smart’ meters (I ZS) and a different one to connect to Brultech GEM with its Zigbee radio (the IZ as @Teken stated above)

ISY manages links automatically - there is no need to manually mess with them. If something gets out of sync simply ‘restore’ the device. Insteon is not designed for multiple controllers like an ISY and a Hub. If you choose to try to integrate the two in one system you really are entering an unsupportable area. It’s I’ll-advised in my opinion.

Working now! http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22581-google-home-thermostat-support/

Thermostats now officially supported! http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22581-google-home-thermostat-support/

Awesome - Thank you Benoit! I've updated the Google Home supported commands wiki subpage to reflect the new commands... so they are easier to find by new users. You likely need to update the screenshots there as the Portal has evolved since the existing screen shots were taken. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY_Portal_Google_Home_Integration Michael.

Certainly, open used to be blacklisted. I gave up on Alexa and moved to Google Home when Home got multi user recognition. So, I'll leave it to those with more in depth knowledge on the subject. And for the security issue, Alexa listens in the ultrasonic range as well as regular sonic range. You can record 'Alexa, open front door' and blast it at ultrasonic frequencies that cannot be heard by people, but will drive a dog crazy. If Alexa is setup to respond to that command, your door will open. It's not about people overhearing you.

Also, isn't 'open' blacklisted by Amazon (they don't want to allow people to accidentally allow people to 'open' zwave locks by voice, by yelling from outside...

Sorry to shout - but it's worth it.... The story... I decided I wanted to get data from my ComEd meter into my data collection environment (to supplement and confirm the accuracy of my BrulTech GEM, as well as provide real time pricing data). So - I contacted ComEd to confirm that the ISY-994i ZS IR/PRO would work. They said it would. I ordered from Orchestrated Home - and received it a few days later. Got the device powered up and filled in the ComEd form to pair the device. That's where the troubles started... Long story short - ComEd admitted that I was the first customer in Illinois to do this with an ISY... and in the end they felt the ISY was somehow defective. Michel gracefully arranged for a replacement to be shipped out to me (from Orchestrated Home) along with return shipping. The new device did not immediately join either - but this time a small tweak to the Zigbee settings and an additional communication to ComEd - and I'm up and running. Real time usage and pricing data... Woo hoo! So - yet another display of fantastic customer service from quite possibly the BEST customer service focussed company available anywhere. Many, many thumbs up. We all appreciate it...

This one: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821 And it would call the REST API to either maintain a variable, or run programs when events occur. I do agree - a CAI Board and Nodelink being 'native' is nice though. I guess I like tinkering with Arduino...

True. But an Adafruit Feather Arduino compatible wifi board is $17, and the other components needed less than $10. It makes a really cheap wifi current sensor for all kinds of applications. That being said, simple is almost always better. The relay solution (120v coil wired in parallel to the pump) is genius... still, I'd probably feed the relay contacts to a Adafruit Feather as well (with a pull up resistor) since it's so inexpensive. Total about $22 when using a single input. Oh, the Feather has 9 gpio pins. So, that's less than $2 per input. Cannot beat that!